How Does the GEBE System Work?

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this was posted by a member, not affiliated and only trying to be helpful to other members.

what i was always led to believe was that getting in on a topic just to bash is what isn't allowed... i see more double-standard at work here.

first-hand, experienced, opinions are welcome in the "reviews" area.
 
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wow, for a post that was put up to help newbies, just like me not so long ago, i really appreciated the time smapadatha put into this....

This post was put on here to help and for that reason only, just like the posts for the happytimes, the titans, the statons,etc.etc.....

get over it !!!!!!

I think the moderators should just lock it.
 
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Thats becuse they are worth the money..
If you want to ride or work on bike all the time is the question.
I want to ride !!!!!!
 
How do you disengage the belt, or can you? is there no "free coasting"?

Thanks
 
How do you disengage the belt, or can you? is there no "free coasting"?

Thanks

TW- the tension arm gets pushed back to disengage the belt, though I rarely do. If you were going to pedal with the engine off for more than a half mile, it might be a good idea, if you were going to pedal for an hour or more, you could take the belt loose from the drive ring and tie it out of the way.

But usually you just keep the tension on at all times, and especially when starting the engine.

The belt doesn't have much drag on pedaling a 7 or 21 speed.
 

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Gebe

i have over three thousand trouble free miles, on the same bike, same belt, same drive ring and the tanaka 40cc. worth every penny!
Joe
 
TW- the tension arm gets pushed back to disengage the belt, though I rarely do. If you were going to pedal with the engine off for more than a half mile, it might be a good idea, if you were going to pedal for an hour or more, you could take the belt loose from the drive ring and tie it out of the way.

But usually you just keep the tension on at all times, and especially when starting the engine.

The belt doesn't have much drag on pedaling a 7 or 21 speed.

Really hard for me to see exactly, you have to get off the bike and adjust tension? Any way to do it on the fly?

Thanks
 
cut the engine, reach back and release the tensioner, on the fly...as bama says, tho, there's minimal drag, so you only need to disengage (or remove) the belt for long-distance pedaling.

never run the engine without the belt engaged!
 
Ok thanks. Not tryin to be a pain here but say I disengage on the fly, can I then re-engage on the fly easily or should I be off the bike to make sure I get it tensioned properly?

I understand there is minimal drag while engaged but I don't want to spin the engine for a whole lot if it isnt being lubricated by a pump.

Also does the belt have a chance of flopping off if I disengage?

Again, I may seem picky but what I am trying to accomplish is a really superb lightweight pedal mountain bike with motoring capabilities. Pedaling will be a priority on this build.

Thanks again
 
Ok thanks. Not tryin to be a pain here but say I disengage on the fly, can I then re-engage on the fly easily or should I be off the bike to make sure I get it tensioned properly?

I understand there is minimal drag while engaged but I don't want to spin the engine for a whole lot if it isnt being lubricated by a pump.

Also does the belt have a chance of flopping off if I disengage?

Again, I may seem picky but what I am trying to accomplish is a really superb lightweight pedal mountain bike with motoring capabilities. Pedaling will be a priority on this build.

Thanks again

I'd say NO, you wouldn't want to disengage on the fly, besides the ungodly noise of the belt running loosely over the drive gear, there could be a chance of it coming off.

But most likely it would just rub the belt grooves ineffectively. Where the real noise comes is if you hit the throttle while disengaged, WHHHHHIIIIRRRRRRR.

You can take your finger off the throttle at any time and coast/peddle all you want....AND since you are talking 21 speeds, 95% of the time, you will be able to peddle and assist the engine.

In other words, you can nearly ALWAYS go 2-3 mph faster by assisting, except when going down a steep grade full blast, maybe 40-45 mph. If you assume the engine tops out at 35mph, peddling may get you up to 37-38 on a straightaway.

On level ground and upgrades, you'll always be able to put some pressure on the chain and sprocket.
 
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