How much space

I have been planning it in slightly different forms since November, Ive been getting the parts all winter little bit at a time, still have a bit to go waiting on rims, and hubs to come in the mail. I have 10 days off the end of march I plan on getting at least a rolling chassis done then (its My first build), some prep stuff done before then. I dont have a garage(winter) and I work 6 days so I dont get much free time. So I am trying to work out as many bugs as I can before then.
I will post any updates on the progress in this thread.
Cheers
Chainmaker
 
Chainmaker, what I meant in my earlier comment regarding your proposed changes affecting the handling is 3 basic issues -1) insuring that the front steering geometry is correct for Ackerman angle is imperative, and getting zero point suspension lean on each kingpin. 2) Lengthening the wheelbase will impact your turning radius drastically, and wider front rims/tires will as well, as you have to consider the arc the front wheels will swing through in turns - typically the wider the tire for a given wheelbase width, the less the allowable angle of turn (you definitely do NOT want a spinning tire rubbing against the outsides of your thighs), and 3) the seating height on the Warrior looks to be 6 inches or less - high centering the main frame gets more likely as it gets longer for a given height above the pavement.

Along with those concerns, the longer the moment arm of the main frame tube, the greater the likelihood of rear wheel scrub when cornering, as well as torsional deflection of the dropout subframe. Going to bigger/heavier tubing is a good idea with your proposed changes. With the tadpole type recumbents, a CoG that is well forward (but behind the front steering axle plane) is important, because under braking forces the bike will want to nosedive - it is quite possible to lift the rear wheel off the ground. With the lengthened frame and the very large/heavy rear wheel, the CoG will shift backward. Which means that it may well be advisable to go with a disc brake on the rear of your design, but make sure that your force balance is at least 60/40 front/rear brakes - the front bakes must be primary and they MUST be balanced.

I like what you are proposing to do, but please do think through each changes impact on the bikes useability carefully. Think about your chain runs, and what lengthening them and/or changing frame member angles will do to them. In addition, with that big a tire, how are you going to affect power transfer? Are you going to bring the two power systems (pedal and engine) together at a mid-drive unit before final transfer to the rear wheel?

Most useful to me in design questions is a good 3D model - I use Google SketchUp a LOT - and then I try to put myself in the seat, mentally. I spend a good bit of time working out what forces will be experienced, in what directions, in use. Better to work out as many bugs as possible before investing effort in fabrication than in changing things afterward.
 
I appreciate all the advice, I have all the parts for a mid-drive; jackshaft and an assortment of sprockets,freewheels,and adapters. I will be using a dual disc brake lever for the front brakes, I thought about the turning radius and I was thinking about lengthening the wheel arms in the front a couple inches each side.Chain managment and such, these are the things I go through mentally inch by inch every day on my 1.5 hour commute to work. I also try to put myself mentally in the seat and picture the layout. On which side of the wheel would you suggest a rear disc I will have pedal drive on right and motor on left, when I first thought about the need for a rear disc I pondered the thought of putting the gear cluster on the jackshaft and just a sprocket on the axel, and disc on the left side


Chainmaker
 
This is what I had in mind for a rear fork mod. Obviously its a chopper but I think it will work perfectly for the rear end. The bottom frame tube going right to the bottom back of the seat, and the top tube going to the top of the seat

Cheers
Chainmaker
 

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I found that stretching my tadpole stabilized the steering quite a bit. I also added handlebar extensions to the vertical steering grips to give a horizontal grip. I think I gain a bit of control by steering more with my wrists, instead of with the whole arm.
While your racing slick will look cool, I would advise that you also build a more moderate rear wheel so you can mount the slick when you want to look - slick -. And you can mount a lighter wheel/tire when you want to ride.
 
Good Idea....... maybe I will lace a 8 inch for when I want to be a little conservative. No,.... but I do plan on having a back up tire in case the fuzz give me grief about the slick, they make a street legal slick with just enough groove to be legal its got like 5 lines around it. I just have to wait for the guy to burn up a couple runs with it. I will though think about maybe a 4 inch and even that will look a little funny in a fork thats 13 inches wide.
Cheers
Chainmaker
 
As far as final drive options go, I'd favor bringing the power and pedal drive trains together at the mid-drive, then doing a single final chain loop to the right side sprocket. That leaves the left side free for your disc brake rotor, and also puts the power through the gearing system - with that massive a rear wheel it might be very useful to have the option of shifting up/down for starts from a full stop and getting to cruising speed.

Alaskavan's idea regarding interchangeable rear wheels is a good one, and if you were to do some modification of the frame, you could readily build a pair of rear drop out subframes that were interchangeable as well. Of course, your chain lines then have to move as well.

I admit, the "street slick" rear tire sounds cool, but I'd hate to have to pedal that thing if the engine dies.
 
I am actually planning a second bike for more practical riding this one is mainly a fun bike. Would I be able to shift gears under motorpower with a standard de-railer if the gear cluster was on the jackshaft?, for some reason I thought it would take somthing more heavy duty.
 
Honestly, a two hundred pound man standing on the pedals and pulling on the steering of an upright bike can exert far greater torque on the chain and gear cluster than a small engine is ever going to put on it. For that matter, the pedal position of most full recumbents lends itself to exerting some fairly impressive pressures on the crank/chain/dérailleur system.

That part of the idea really isn't a major concern, as long as chain tensions are set correctly and your chain lines are straight.
 
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