How to identify engine, and other questions.
- Thread starter gasser
- Start date
RdKryton
Active Member
Hello
Here is a link to information on vintage Whizzers.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/pit/7508/main.html
Now the modern Whizzers. These are made in Taiwan. They are reincarnation of the old Whizzer company. These start in 1999 and go to the present. I know this will stir up more questions for you but the link is some very good reading.
Jim
Here is a link to information on vintage Whizzers.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/pit/7508/main.html
Now the modern Whizzers. These are made in Taiwan. They are reincarnation of the old Whizzer company. These start in 1999 and go to the present. I know this will stir up more questions for you but the link is some very good reading.
Jim
RdKryton
Active Member
The NE5 came to being in late 2004. Prior to that was the WC-1. Both motors are 138 cc but the NE5 corrected a major problem the WC-1 had. WC-1's had a nasty habit of loosing a valve seat after several hundred miles. This was only repairable by replacing the cylinder. A few people successfully modified or repaired these cylinders put it was very costly. The NE5 is the motor of choice for the modern Whizzers. The NE5 has more and larger cooling fins, a larger carb, and a large crankcase breather hose. There are many many other differences too. You can learn a lot by looking at the pictures of both motors. You will soon be able to spot the difference a mile away. Good luck
Jim
The first picture is a WC-1 and the second is the same motor upgraded to an NE5
Jim
The first picture is a WC-1 and the second is the same motor upgraded to an NE5
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Hi Gasser, I called Whizzer motorbike in Texas to ask how to tell the difference between a WC1 and the NE5 and was told that the easiest way was that if the crankcase cover had the Whizzer logo or emblem on it , then it was a NE5. I don't know if this was true in all instances. I don't know when the NE5 was introduced for certain but others on this list will . I just know that this info from Whizzer satisfied
what I needed to know at the time.
what I needed to know at the time.
RdKryton
Active Member
I see by your last question that you have been reading. That's good. The lifters will go a long way towards making it a solid motor. They did a bearing change in 2008 that can be problematic. I personally would look for a 2007 model.
Jim
Jim
Hi Gasser,
I also suggest the head be milled and the head gasket replaced. The motor will certainly gain power by milling the head, however the reason is more for duribility than speed. The problem is the amount of the head surface between the 2 large 10 MM bolts and the combustion chamber. The combustion chamber's side wall is tapered. Therefore as the head is milled the amount of contact area increases slightly. Some versions of the head have a combustion chamber design that is difficult to understand, but a Dremel tool can work wonders in reshaping the inside of the head.
A word of caution concerning the last run of NE5 centers around the cylinder and curing metal correctly. The problem is thread shear, appears the aluminum is too brittle and the head bolts pull out of the cylinder. So far it mostly effectes the 3 rear head bolts. The fix is to re-cure the cylinder prior to use. So far the advice of a metal expert has worked well, I simply bake the cylinder in the oven @ 325 degrees for 2 hours and let it cool down in the oven. I always paint the cylinders black in the process and the oven bakes on the cylinder paint in the process.
The easiest way to identify the problematic motor is by the aluminum manifold. If the motor has an aluminum manifold approx. 1" long it could be a motor that needs help, however I don't think all motors with the manifold are suspect.
Hope this information helps,
I also suggest the head be milled and the head gasket replaced. The motor will certainly gain power by milling the head, however the reason is more for duribility than speed. The problem is the amount of the head surface between the 2 large 10 MM bolts and the combustion chamber. The combustion chamber's side wall is tapered. Therefore as the head is milled the amount of contact area increases slightly. Some versions of the head have a combustion chamber design that is difficult to understand, but a Dremel tool can work wonders in reshaping the inside of the head.
A word of caution concerning the last run of NE5 centers around the cylinder and curing metal correctly. The problem is thread shear, appears the aluminum is too brittle and the head bolts pull out of the cylinder. So far it mostly effectes the 3 rear head bolts. The fix is to re-cure the cylinder prior to use. So far the advice of a metal expert has worked well, I simply bake the cylinder in the oven @ 325 degrees for 2 hours and let it cool down in the oven. I always paint the cylinders black in the process and the oven bakes on the cylinder paint in the process.
The easiest way to identify the problematic motor is by the aluminum manifold. If the motor has an aluminum manifold approx. 1" long it could be a motor that needs help, however I don't think all motors with the manifold are suspect.
Hope this information helps,
