How to make a clutch roller bracket....

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by Al.Fisherman, Oct 18, 2009.

  1. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Fabricating a clutch roller

    There are many ways to make a clutch roller bracket, so by no means you have to do it to the way I did. Secondly as frugal as I am, (my wife calls me cheap) I tend to make use of what I have lying, (and I have quite a selection of stuff (my wife calls it JUNK) around the garage). My first bracket was made from a door hinge, my second from a running board bracket. No telling what my third one will be made of (probably the remaining running board bracket...for my son's bike). I find that any angle iron of at least ¾ by ¾ by 1/16" will work fine. What you see in the WHITE oval (Photo 03) will become the roller bracket.

    Materials needed:
    1. Some type of material (approx 2" long) you decide to use for the bracket. No thicker then 1/16" for easy fabrication.
    2. (1) screen door roller (bought mine at Lowe's 2 for $5.00)
    3 (1) machine screw that correctly fits through the roller bearing, clutch bracket, two/three washers and a nut. I used a 6-32x1" machine screw.
    4 (2 or 3) flat washers for screw in step 3.
    5 (1) Self locking nut for screw in step 3
    6 (1) M6x1.0 nut that the factory cable holder/adjuster can screw into.
    7 Drill bit for screw in (3) above. I used a #27

    Layout (Photo 03)
    A to B, and C to D are my cut length.
    E to F will be cut for the top
    H to I will be for the mounting face
    G for the mounting hole
    K for the roller
    J for the cable guid

    Step 1, after the obvious of deciding and gathering what you will use (Photo 01 and 02) for this project will be to cut it to the length you desire. I find that somewhere between 1-3/4 to 2-1/2 inches will work just fine. The first one I made was 1-3/4 inches and decided to make it longer with the second. The reason I did this was that I thought that if I had more room between the roller and the cable guide it might work differently as my clutch was as hard as heck to disengage. What I found out was that the cable housing had a bend/crimp and was applying too much pressure on the inner cable, and was binding badly. When finished and done correctly you should be able to disengage the clutch with as little enough pressure that I can use my pinkie finger only.



    Step 2 Decide where the mounting hole needs to be drilled in your bracket (Photo 04 and 05). This can be done by placing the stock on top and against the clutch cover. I use the top screw hole as my mounting point for obvious reasons.....makes it easy!!!! Mark/measure as to where you need to drill the hole. In the picture you will see that I use the first hole clockwise to the one I use. This was due to the fact the roller was already mounted and for a clear, easy to see picture for you. As you can see I need to drill the mounting somewhere along the red line (Photo 05). Drill a hole that a 6mm screw will fit through (Photo 03 letter "G").

    Step 3 Place the roller on the left hand side of your bracket where it is to be mounted (1 to 1 1/4" from bracket mounting bolt). As shown in (Photo 07), mark and drill hole for roller bolt (Photo 03 letter "K") , make sure you have enough room for the bolt head below the bracket. When installing, make sure that the roller spins free. This is where the extra washer might come in handy, and don't over tighten the top nut. My roller can move up and down about 1/16 to 1/8 inch, that way the cable can't bind in the roller.

    Step 4 Now for the cable holder nut. I brazed a nut (1 ¼ to 1 ½" from mounting hole) directly to the bracket, see (Photo 07). You can take a M6/1/4" bolt or anything about that size, and braze it to the nut, drill a hole (Photo 03 "J") and use a nut and washer to secure it from below the bracket. This way it is made adjustable. You want the cable to come out as close to the center of the guide to the roller as you can. Two reasons, first less rub on the cable and second, ease of operation of the clutch. I had to redo mine a few times as it wasn't lining up the way I wanted it to. From now on a bolt will be used with the nut.

    Step 5 Mount roller bracket to clutch cover. I used M6 1.00 all thread 2 inches long, along with 2 lock nuts. A M6x15 1.00 bolt should work fine, if longer you can cut excess off. Lock bolt with a lock nut from behing..eliminates bracket from moving See (Photo 07)

    Step 6 Oil and run cable through sheath, adjuster (on bracket), around roller through clutch arm and secure and adjust clutch.

    Also shown in (Photo 07) you can see the FRONT mounting bracket I made. More on that later.

    As usual for those that can't make or don't have the tools to fabricate such a bracket, I can be talked into making one, or any part thereof.

    Ron...aka Al.Fisherman
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2015

Loading...