How to properly measure Head Temperature

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I have installed a PUCH high compressure head and have been doing some testing. To my surprise i've getting some weird numbers like 450fah, when my mixture is properly tuned (according to spark plugs). Prior to this the engine temperature was never tested. I have a Nieko IR thermometer.

In short, how does one properly use the IR thermometer? these temperatures are definitely not normal

Also, is there another way to accurately measure head temps?
 
If I recall right, up to 500 degrees is OK for a head temperature. It gets higher with more compression.
Some people use thermocouple washers under the spark plug to measure the temperature.
 
Don't be too quick to question your measurements. Your meter is closer to reality than you think.

I looked up cylinder head and exhaust gas temps from a Lycoming air-cooled aircraft engine site. Your head measurment is in the same ballpark. And keep in mind that gasoline burns at 1300 degrees to a lot hotter, depending upon how rich or lean your mixture is. I have seen lawnmower exhaust pipes glow cherry red when running the engine hard. So your 650 F reading is really too cold. A thermocouple device about 2 inches into the exhaust gas flow from the cylinder would give a more accurate measurement. So scan your exhaust pipe real close to the cylinder; the reading will probably still be low.

Maybe a calibration check: scan a pot containing boiling water. I will bet your meter displays real close to 212 F.

Mikej
 
Exhaust temps get ridiculously hot. So hot it can make iron glow bright red. Not-so-much on a 2-stroke but 650 even seems low to me.
 
Wow! I must say that I am shocked none the less. I was reading here that optimal head temperatures were around 250- 300 fah and was freaking out. I just ordered some SIG castor oil. Going to put a touch of that alongside my royal purple synthetic oil.
 
If you're using an IR gun, several factors can come into play. I won't go into all details here. You can read up if you want: http://www.omega.com/prodinfo/infraredthermometer.html

But the two main ones to deal with are field-of-view and emissivity.

In short, the gun looks at a certain field and measures it's temperature. Even if you have a laser dot, the temperature comes from an area around that dot. Generally guns have an ~8:1 or 9:1 ratio...8 inches away, you're looking at a 1" diameter spot, 16" = 2" diameter, etc. Trouble can arise when things like the spark plug, exhaust pipe, carburetor, cooling fins, etc get into that field of view and could skew the reading either higher or lower than the actual head temperature.

Second, emissivity - basically how 'bright' a material shines in IR light. A perfect radiator is 1.0 - most everything else is less. Most guns are calibrated to about .95 which approximates quite a few surfaces, general paint, etc. Shiny aluminum, stainless steel, spark plug porcelain, etc will usually make for a error.

For the best IR reading, you'd need to paint the head flat black (.95 emissivity) and take a reading close enough that only the metal of the head is viewed, not the spark plug, exhaust pipe, fins, etc.
 
Hi Strontium

Send me a PM and i'll send you a link detailing how to set your bike up to accurately measure cylinder head temperature and Exhaust Gas Temperature as an accessory option for the bike.

The worst i've seen has been 557 degrees Celsius with around 480 to 500 Celsius in normal operation - Exhaust Gas Temperature
Cylinder head temperature sits around 220 Celsius with max being 285 Celsius using a Dellorto No68 jet.

Since changing to the Rock Solid Engines Billet CNC Reed Valve Intake, i have needed to jet up to a Dellorto No74. Low and midrange torque has jumped significantly with the engine running much more consistently as well as maximum exhaust gas temperature dropping 50 degrees Celsius to 500.

Cheers
 
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HF has two cheap ones to consider but the cheapest of the two only reads up to 482 degrees F. So this is the one to get since it reads almost to 1000 degrees: http://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-laser-thermometer-96451.html

If you want to be even more accurate, since using an infrared device will just read the fin temperature since the frame will be in the way of getting the reader in the centerline to read the meaty part of the head, you can buy a thermocouple spark plug washer for $45 and use a digital voltmeter to read its voltage output (while riding which is advantageous) and use this formula to determine the Fahrenheit temperature: temperature=((voltage-0.61)/0.03075)+100
Pegasus also sells an analog gauge to use with the thermocouple for $65: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7208
 
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