Huasheng 4-stroke chinese engine won't start

Discussion in '4-Stroke Engines' started by chuck216, Apr 14, 2008.

  1. chuck216

    chuck216 Member

    I've been having a problem getting this motor to start.

    First I thought it was because of the low quality spark plug wire that comes with the engine, it wasn't giving spark as the "staple" type connector was loose. I replaced the spark plug wire with a piece of automotive coil wire, now it's getting great spark, so that isn't the problem.

    I think the problem is in the air/fuel mixture but no matter how much I turn the adjustment screw it still won't start.

    I can remove the spark plug and put a few drops of fuel directly into the cylinder then put the plug back in and pull the starter rope, and it will run for a couple seconds then stop after burning what is there.

    Any suggestions, as right now it's a $500+ dollar project that is completely useless to me.
     

  2. HoughMade

    HoughMade Guest

    Without the priming, did it fire at all? If not, get that screw set back to where it was and don't mess with it until you get it running.

    You know you have spark- if it will not fire at all, you have no fuel- not an off mixture.

    Check these:

    - is the fuel cut off on? (I have a Honda which has one built in, not sure about the Huasheng)

    - Does the fuel flow into the bowl?

    - Is there a clear passage up the bowl to the carb jet? Don't stick anything in there- spray WD or carb cleaner up there to see if it makes it up into the carb.

    Try these things and post what you find- we'll figure this out.
     
  3. chuck216

    chuck216 Member

    Never mind, I've just decided to junk the whole thing. looks like having a motorized bike is not for me. I found the cause of another problem I had earlier that of an unknown fuel leak. it's coming from the gasket between the carb and the motor, the reason, one of the bolts that holds the air cleaner and carb to the motor is broken off inside the motor. So that means I have a $500 piece of junk anyway.

    Thanks anyway.
     
  4. It will not start because the vavles are tight. everyone I've done needed the valves adujusted. these are not junk! I find them very dependable.
     
  5. turkeyssr

    turkeyssr Guest

    Valve Specs.

    Do you know the valve specs for these engines? I just bought a Dax kit, and I haven't heard what the spacing is supposed to be for them. It sounds like they should be checked before running when new.

    Without specs I'm lost. I can't do it by feel. :rolleyes:

    Thanks! - John
     
  6. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    The Lifan on my trike stopped running. I could sometimes get it to start, and it would run okay, but if I shut it down, I'd have a heck of a time startinig it again. I changed back to the stock sparkplug (which was working fine when I took it out), Still trouble startiing. I thought maybe the float in the Mikuni was sticking and flooding it. I took that apart and checked everything. Re-assembled and reinstalled it. No start. I put the stack carb back on it. No Start. Adjusted the valves (there was 0 clearance on the exhaust side). No start. Checked the plug again. It was a little darker this time, and I could see that the spark wasn't jumping the gap. What my old eyes had been seeing was the spark jumping from the plug to the cylinder, not jumping the gap on the plug. Checked the other plug. Same thing. Both fouled. Grabbed a new plug (it's handy to work at a NAPA store). Starts and purrs. Reinstalled the Mikuni.

    Lesson learned: Just because you hear and see spark, don't mean it's right. The spark HAS to be jumping the gap. (And it should be a blue/white spark).
     
  7. chuck216

    chuck216 Member

    I've actually got it to start, but there's a couple of new problems now:

    It starts with the choke closed and while giving it a bit of throttle however the the second you open the choke, the motor dies, also it's not able to run at an idle slow enough to disengage the centrifugal clutch. so the rear wheel just spins, even if I try adjusting the idle screw while it's running the motor dies before revs drop enough to disengage the clutch.

    Anyone have any ideas about what could be causing this? It spins the rear wheel like gangbusters while the choke is on and revs are kept above idle level. but I want it to be able to sit idling with the choke open without it wanting to take off on it's own.

    Oh I should add that it won't run at all with the choke open no matter how much throttle you give it, if that helps at all, it just dies, right then and there.
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2008
  8. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    I'd check to make sure there's no air leak between the carb/intake manifold/cylinder.
     
  9. chuck216

    chuck216 Member

    I found the problem and you're going to laugh. There is a short rubber hose going from the air filter box to the engine.. it popped out of the hole it was in, I put it back in and it runs fine. the is a slight problem with the centrifugal clutch, it's acting like it's slipping, which is probably my fault as I put some lithium grease on the gears inside the gearbox, some of it may have gotten on the clutch itself.
     
  10. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    If it's not slipping too bad, the grease should eventually wear off. If not, it shouldn't cost too much to replace the shoes.
     
  11. adamtheha

    adamtheha Member

    Haha! Thanks funny man, I'm glad you decided not to junk the engine. I'm sure people get really turned off by the necessary amount of "tinkering" required with these kits to get them running. For us who are mechanically inclined, it's addicting! (My wife asked me today if I was having an affair with my bike :)
     
  12. Mike S

    Mike S Member

    Mine started first try

    My grubee skyhawk started on the first pull and ran smoothly, after removing the kill switch on the throttle. Had it connected incorrectly. The engine is fairly quiet with just grease on the gears. I recommend not using gear oil. I'm satisfied with this engine. Mike S
     
  13. HoughMade

    HoughMade Guest

    I agree with the grease only position. I use Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty- pretty green color. I liberally applied it to the first, intermediate and final gears and pack more in behind the intermediate before putting the cover back on. I hear only the chain and the engine- gears not at all.

    From time to time you will see posts with people talking about how noisy the Grubee gearbox is- older ones maybe, and without proper grease, surely, but I got mine last August and it is quiet with grease.

    The Grubee Skyhawk II needs some "bodging" to get it right, but when it is set up- it is really quite good.

    I use the Honda engine and it is a rev happy, mini-motorcycle sounding little beast. I love it.
     
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