Huffy Cranebrook problems need help

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by fizzman911, May 18, 2010.

  1. fizzman911

    fizzman911 New Member

    I know a lot of you must have had the idea of shoving an engine into one of these huffy cruiser bikes, it looks too good to pass up right? Anyways, I have had some problems in my endeavors that I would like to ask for some help. First the engine chain keeps rubbing onto the side of my rear tire. I have flipped the sprocket to give me a little more room but its still a little close for comfort. Second, it was hard for me to install the break arm after putting the sprocket in the rear wheel. I had to really tighten the whole thing down for it to even fit in there. Then the break arm kept rubbing onto the nuts for the Sprocket Clamp Assembly. Has anyone had these same problems? Also, have any of you guys tried putting a front brake on this bike? Thank you very much for your help. This website has really helped me out a lot, it has been a great guide and resource.:detective:
     

  2. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Are you talking about a bike like this. http://www.motoredbikes.com/album.php?albumid=1014 If so then there are fixes. Start with the brakes. I have done it both ways, using the coaster brake and doing away with it. Also on both builds I installed front brakes, and use a single brake lever. As far as the coaster brake you can either enlarge the sprocket hole as I did http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3IPgvZLccI or either cut the lip off the bearing cup or do away with the cup totally as some here have done it all ways. I like the bearing cup intact. As far as the chain rubbing, the engine needs to be mounted higher up on the seat tube, and since it rubs this tells me your sprocket is not mounted properly. Is it dished side out?
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2010
  3. fizzman911

    fizzman911 New Member

    Yes the bike looks very much like that. The sprocket doest fit in the bike and goes all the way back. the problem im having is that the whole set up is very close to the wheel so no matter what I am able to do the break arm still touches the bolts on the sprocket. Also my engine is mounted up fairly high. The sprocket is turned to have the teeth farther out. The problem is the father I try to move to sprocket from the wheele to make more space for the chain, the harder or impossible, it makes it to install the break arm.
     
  4. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    You will need to take the coaster brake arm off the wheel and bend a offset in it. The nuts on the sprocket bolts are on the inside of the spokes correct?
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 19, 2010
  5. fizzman911

    fizzman911 New Member

    Yes correct. I guess I will just bend the break arm. I though that maybe there was another way fo doing it. THank you for the help. Also, what kind of front brake could I get for my bike?
     
  6. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    I did away with the coaster brake axle. I didn't like the rear gear ratio when peddling to start it, plus I'm going to get a shift kit and I need a multi speed set up.

    1. Front brake
    2. Rear brake
    4. Shorter bolts with nylon locking nuts on the rag joint.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 20, 2010
  7. i hade this bike at one time
    1st i took off the coaster wheel and bought a good 12 guage spoke freewheel one and then i bought a skinnier tire then get a u brake they have these cheap at bike shopes for around 15-25 dollars
     
  8. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    I myself like the wider tires on the road. ALL bikes/parts that I have used for my own or my son's bike (with the exception of tires and tubes) either came from one laying around, yard sales. freebies, and even picked up the sister of my Huffy upon leaving the landfill here.
     
  9. fizzman911

    fizzman911 New Member

    Ron, thanks for that info. Your set up looks great. I have a question, you put the chain idler differently. What are the pros and cons of this? Themotorbikeguy, did you change the rear wheel because it was rubbing? how much did the freewheele cost you? do you have any other suggestions for this bike? Thank you all for helping.
     
  10. its a single speed rim so price varies
    i got mine for about 40
     
  11. but there pretty hard to come by
     
  12. fizzman911

    fizzman911 New Member

    Where did you get yours? a LBS?
     
  13. i got mine at a local bike shop called the bicycle garage in fremont ca
     
  14. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    I don't know if there are pros or cons... My pro was that if it got loose by any means it would be in a downward position, and maybe not get into the spokes as easily. Could be that it doesn't make any difference. I need to rise that engine up, but will wait till I install a shift kit and do it all at once...I'll also change the chain tensioner at the same time...I bought one from Tractor Supply.
     
  15. arkives1

    arkives1 Member

    Huffy Cranbrook problems need help

    Ron, I like your rear brake addition, I only added the front one but still need to add the rear one. As to the bolts hitting the brake arm, I counter sunk the holes and used flat head allen screws with nylock nuts.
    You may not need a tensioner at all with a shift kit other than the one that comes with the SBP kit. Do you find the Cranbrook to be a rather hard riding bike, a bone shaker?
    Woody
     
  16. fizzman911

    fizzman911 New Member

    Counter sinking the holes sounds interesting. The cranbrook can be a rough ride. I live in New Olreans and we have the WORST streets in the country because our city is sinking. I wouldnt mind if the reoad were good. Its not too bad, then again, my usuall ride is a trek road bike that I race with.
     
  17. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    We have great roads here and still my bike can be rough. It is NOT a main means of transportation by any sort, although at times I do go to the store on it. It's a toy and hobby. More so a hobby as I'm always trying to come up with different ideas to make this hobby better, have less problems, and more enjoyable. I feel sorry for those that HAVE TO use this form of transportation as their one and only. After my shift kit I think I'll spring for a springer front. If you look here http://www.motoredbikes.com/album.php?albumid=1014&pictureid=6611 Mikes bike ended up with a springer front and he not only can tell a big difference but it was inexpensive...about $50.00. Just something more to tinker with. All told at the moment I have less then $200.00 in it so far...Have had it for a little over a year. My son and I take 20+ mile trips together. We have a great park here (Oak Mountain), it's about a 1,300' climb.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2010
  18. occchopperfl

    occchopperfl Member

    Hi All,

    Cranbrook Sprocket Install.

    ??? Help ........ PLEASE ASSIST ???

    Im having problems mounting the ragmount sprocket:

    a. rubber discs seem too thick
    b. rubber discs and metal banana attachers dont all align up,
    (hitting part of hub/ sprocket too)
    c. sprocket brake bar seems like it will hit the bolt heads when installed.
    (some posted no mod./bending of cb arm required)

    1. (went to a machine shop, and he wanted $45.00 to $70.00 to increase the sprocket hole size on 2 sprockets. ---> At this point, that option is cost prohibitive, knowing you can get a adapter, sprocket for $50.00 from PIRATE)

    2.PIRATE is out of stock...it really does sound too painfully familiar.
    --->JIIIIIIM! get your product out to Justin!

    I've decided to either not reinstall dust cap,OR install it if it fits. (i dont want to grind down the dust cap.)

    Im getting a little bit frazzled.

    Sprocket concave or convex side out, whatever works.

    Can anyone share several detailed PICS please of installed sprocket? and go over it with me?

    I feel so inept, so stupid right now.

    The instructions say 2 hours total build time - UNREAL...
    I spent 4 "dry fitting"sprocket and I didn't even install a single thing!!! (not to mention the dozens of hours online trying to research the build.)

    Sorry if i'm ranting.

    Thanks for all your help in advance Guys/Gals. :)
     
  19. arkives1

    arkives1 Member

    Huffy Cranbrook problems, need help

    Hi OCC
    The hole in the rear sprocket is too small to fit around the dust cap etc. You can grind it out although it's a good bit of metal to remove.

    Make sure your rubber gaskets are of a uniform thickness and not wedge shaped. Have you tried lining up the horseshoe shaped pieces and the holes with every thing before putting it on the wheel? It may take some jiggling but they should go. I had one set that was thinner in places but the vendor replaced them with out a problem.
    The brake arm will hit the bolt heads, it will need to be bent into a dogleg shape to clear the sprocket and the bolts. You can relieve some of the bending by replacing the bolts with flat head screws (allen head) Counter sink the heads.
    I think Ron (alfisherman) has a video of reshaping the sprocket hole.
    Cranbrook was the first bike I did and it did require some re-engineering but made a nice bike when finished. I did find it a rather hard ride on my bony old A**
    You will need a different front mount as well, they are not that hard to make from c channel or bent flat stock. I did not drill a hole in the frame.
    Sorry I cannot offer pics as the bike was stolen last saturday afternoon.
    I hope this helps.
    Woody
     
  20. occchopperfl

    occchopperfl Member

    I hope you find your bicycle. Im sorry to hear.

    Thank you Woody :) for your info.

    I was thinking about going to Harbor Frieght and buy a drill press, but I dont think that increasing the inner hole size of the sprocket will help it be installed any easier, as ive disassembeled the entire real axel, and removed the dust cap on the brake arm side.

    Ill follow your lead, and call for a replacement rubber circle thinga ma jigggy.
     
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