I Broke TWO Staton Friction Rollers!

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by 5-7HEAVEN, Oct 23, 2009.

  1. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    The BMP friction drive was $100 cheaper than another vendor. I also saved another $90 on shipping.

    BMP had only 1", 1.25" and 1.5" rollers. Staton had .875", 1", 1.125", 1.25", 1.375" and 1.5" quality rollers. So I installed Staton friction spindles for more versatility.

    All worked well with 1.25" and 1.375" Staton rollers and 5hp GP460 engine on the BMP kit. When I swapped to a 2.2hp Mitsubishi engine and a different bike with the BMP kit and Staton rollers, I broke two rollers in less than a month.

    By the way, since the rear disc brake was in the way, I just installed the right-side rear mounting strut. The strut was a modified old-style Staton rear mounting strut.

    Also experiencing clutch drum bottoming out on the engine block AND the clutch nose. I'm using three mounting bolts. If I tighten the fourth mounting bolt, the engine's crank locks up.

    Maybe it's a manufacturing defect, maybe the engine block is the problem. I had the same interference/scraping problem when this engine was mounting on the Staton friction drive.

    The interference problem would probably be solved if I lengthened the Staton clutch drum spacer maybe .125".

    Any suggestions how to stop the roller from breaking at the clutch drum, AND solving the engine interference problem?
     

  2. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    Where did the roller break?
     
  3. moondog

    moondog Member

    I would take a small square and check that everything is square.

    I would also weld some angle iron supports in the channel to help keep it square and prevent flexing.

    The Staton kit is stiffer and everything is tight pressed fit. The motor stays inline with the clutch drum.

    If the clutch drum is not lined up straight going into the motor this could put a lot of stress on the roller causing it to break at the clutch drum ?
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2009
  4. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    The roller broke at the threaded end and clutch drum. I will install left-side rear support strut soon.

    The engine motor mount holes themselves might be off. I will try different Mits engine and used 1.5" roller.
     
  5. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    That does sound as if the engine (clutch) and roller bearings aren't exactly in alignment.
     
  6. eastwoodo4

    eastwoodo4 Member

    as far as the fourth bolt goes,make sure none of the bolts are going all the way thru and hitting the flywheel.you may have to shorten one or more of the bolts.
     
  7. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    Possibly, the bmp u-channel is opening up or flexing slightly when clamped down, under pressure, with only one hold-down clamp point.
     
  8. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    All mounting bolts thread into the block; no flywheel on the clutch side.

    So I removed the Mits engine and installed a 4.5hp GP460 engine. Four mounting bolts threaded easily into the block. A Staton 1.375" roller will be used, as this seems to be the best overall one for this engine.

    I will make sure I fab a left-side rear strut.
     
  9. cpuaid

    cpuaid Member

    5-7HEAVEN, how is the GP460 working out for you so far? what is your sustained speed with that 1.375" roller? i'm thinking about using the GP460 for a future project. the price makes it a real bargain but i'm afraid it might be too much power for our little drive rollers since its a higher revving engine. won't the tires be eaten up more quickly?
     
  10. eastwoodo4

    eastwoodo4 Member

    then what do the clutch shoes attach to?
     
  11. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    I have not removed the clutch, but all of its parts are well within the bellhousing.

    cpuaid, in a previous thread I described installing a GP460 engine with friction drive on my 21-speed Giant Rincon bike. The Staton 1.375" roller was my best compromise for street use. I had problems with the engine's low-end torque, so I'll use this as my commuter bike. Maybe with an 24-speed Diamondback bike I'll have more power at low speed.

    The engine's powerband comes on very strong at 25mph and pulls easily to 45mph. Friction drive handles it easily because of the engine's lack of torque at the low end.

    Tire engagement is critical. I've destroyed a good tire in 15 miles due to overengaging.:whistling:

    Proper tire-to-roller contact and the correct tire is very important.
     
  12. eastwoodo4

    eastwoodo4 Member

    i had the problem of the bolt going thru the bell housing and hitting the flywheel.
    you will have to take the bell housing off to see if the end of the bolts are going thru the bell housing and hitting the flywheel.or you can screw the bolt in and see how far it goes till the crank locks up.when the crank locks up,however much bolt is still sticking out is how much you have to grind off the bolt.

    its worth a try.gl
     
  13. moondog

    moondog Member

    We bought a friction drive kit from BGF.

    There was a thick steel spacer for mounting the motor.

    It was machined with a lip that fit tight into the motor so when it was bolted together the spacer was tight in the motor and could not move around.

    It has a bearing on the other side of the spacer, press fit.

    This bearing sticks out a little and also fits in tight with another bearing in a machined piece of steel welded to the channel.

    So, it has 2 bearings on the motor side of the channel and one on the other side.

    The motor is very much centered with the clutch drum.

    The channel was steel and it was bent when we got it. The clutch drum was centered but was cocked.

    Made a scraping noise and the motor would lock up if the fourth bolt was made tight.
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2009
  14. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    The GP460 engine has been installed, this time with its stock muffler instead of expansion pipe. For rear struts I'm using two Staton's old-style single-action rear struts. The left-side is unmodified; the bottom part attaches to the rear disc brake mounting bolt. The right-side secures the roller engagement with lock nuts, simple L-bracket and threaded rod.

    http://www.staton-inc.com/Details.asp?ProductID=2675

    I'm expecting 40+mph.:jester:
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 1, 2009
Loading...