williamsk1936@yahoo.com
Member
This is stuff from another motorbike site I wanted to share since you are interested in forkin' around. I thought I was going to use my Schwinn clone springer on the Schwinn cruiser with the Gru Bee, but the head tube is too long. I am stubborn and considered doing a leaf spring thing like a 1930's Indian, but decided to cheap off and build probably a better fork with a little engineering and imagination (FUN) Anyhow, here's the artical. I will answer any questions.
HEY, I think I'm on a roll: I finally found my tiddler shock arms. I suspect they are early Honda or Yamaha 50 units out of a tin fork housing.
The spring/shock units are 8-1/2" eye-to-eye, 1" dia., and the links are 2-3/4" from anchor point to spring connection and then 2" more to front axle hole. If I turn just about any fork backward and attach the link, it protrudes enough in front of the fork to just about maintain the rake angle perfectly. Since it has a rather thick hole for the axle (1/2") I selected a heavy front axle that had Huffey front axle pegs on it. That makes it long enough to get nuts fully on.
The fork slot can be drilled to receive the pivot point bolts, that are 3/8", and that means they won't escape the fork slot. Additionally, I can add the washers with dogs to secure to the holes for them above. The top spring eye will bolt to a blade bracket welded to the front of the fork. It can be as long as I want it to be for security. A failure wouldn't be catastrophic, It would just cause tire drag on one leg. .................... (LATER)
I just ran out of steam in the shop but have almost completed the easiest spring fork you can imagine. The spacing on the leading links couldn't have been better. I welded plates on the outside of the hollow fork legs with 3 holes to anchor the links to give me some tuning adjustment and add security to the welded area. The fork I selected is one of those with 3 plates at the top with a chrome cover to keep rain out of the legs. It was on a balloon tired bike apparently, although it has a horizontal bolt hole for a caliper. I gas welded the plates on and got to use my newly built Scotch Brite 2" belt buffer to round off and smooth the weld beads Went to the wire wheel and stripped everything and primed and painted it. Tomorrow it will be dry so I can assemble it and try it out. I think, since the hole is there in the fork neck for a caliper I can't use on a rim that goes up and down, I will slide a plate in there with a 1/4" bolt welded to it to go forward 2" to mount the fender on so it is centered on the wheel. I can wing it with some tubular struts of 1/4" stainless to get back to the fork. This has been a fun project to keep me alert. God knows the country needs more lerts
HEY, I think I'm on a roll: I finally found my tiddler shock arms. I suspect they are early Honda or Yamaha 50 units out of a tin fork housing.
The spring/shock units are 8-1/2" eye-to-eye, 1" dia., and the links are 2-3/4" from anchor point to spring connection and then 2" more to front axle hole. If I turn just about any fork backward and attach the link, it protrudes enough in front of the fork to just about maintain the rake angle perfectly. Since it has a rather thick hole for the axle (1/2") I selected a heavy front axle that had Huffey front axle pegs on it. That makes it long enough to get nuts fully on.
The fork slot can be drilled to receive the pivot point bolts, that are 3/8", and that means they won't escape the fork slot. Additionally, I can add the washers with dogs to secure to the holes for them above. The top spring eye will bolt to a blade bracket welded to the front of the fork. It can be as long as I want it to be for security. A failure wouldn't be catastrophic, It would just cause tire drag on one leg. .................... (LATER)
I just ran out of steam in the shop but have almost completed the easiest spring fork you can imagine. The spacing on the leading links couldn't have been better. I welded plates on the outside of the hollow fork legs with 3 holes to anchor the links to give me some tuning adjustment and add security to the welded area. The fork I selected is one of those with 3 plates at the top with a chrome cover to keep rain out of the legs. It was on a balloon tired bike apparently, although it has a horizontal bolt hole for a caliper. I gas welded the plates on and got to use my newly built Scotch Brite 2" belt buffer to round off and smooth the weld beads Went to the wire wheel and stripped everything and primed and painted it. Tomorrow it will be dry so I can assemble it and try it out. I think, since the hole is there in the fork neck for a caliper I can't use on a rim that goes up and down, I will slide a plate in there with a 1/4" bolt welded to it to go forward 2" to mount the fender on so it is centered on the wheel. I can wing it with some tubular struts of 1/4" stainless to get back to the fork. This has been a fun project to keep me alert. God knows the country needs more lerts
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