I need some GEBE/Tanaka40 help asap

Discussion in 'Rack Mounted Engines' started by recumbentbill, Jul 2, 2008.

  1. I'm starting to hear a rattle mainly when taking off [while pedalling of course]. I suspect that it's my centrifical clutch . The clutch also is not wanting to disengage smoothly when slowing down. I want to inspect the clutch BUT I am having a hard time with the two lower flush mount hex bolts. I tried using a Ball peen hammer strike impact with the poper allen bit with no luck. Do the two lower bolts have some red thread lock on them or are the threads reversed . The two upper 7/16 bolts loosened up with no problem
    Any help will be appreciated

  2. stude13

    stude13 Active Member

    what i would use is an impact driver--inexpensive at car parts store
  3. augidog

    augidog Banned

    i think it's the counter-sink that gives those bottom bolts a bit more bite...from another (fun) topic: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showpost.php?p=103326&postcount=24

    sorry, i'm not familiar with the mileage on your drive, so this is my generic experience, someone correct me if any of this wrong.

    i was a bit uncomfortable with the clutch-chatter on my 33 when new, but i started giving it a bit more goose than i had cautiously been doing, there seems to be a good power-ratio of man to machine where the shoes engage more smoothly. i do have some idle chatter until it warms up, and i can still get it when going up or down in my range, but i can always find that groove and all is well. it's a 2-stroke, so i figure it wants the rpm's, i was treating it like a 4-stroke at first.

    but, if you know or feel that an inspection is necessary, that pic sez it all :cool:
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2008
  4. Bolts are out. Here is what I found

    Thats what I was using. Had to knock the fool out of the bolts. Actually bent the 3/8 drive allen bit.:lol:

    The clutch weights seem fine but the clutch drum is out of round a little bit. I wonder if the clutch spring has lost some of its tension??? Anybody know what the rpm engagement is?? The rattling is coming from inside the muffler.
    I'll live with the rattle. Engine is back together and on the bike
  5. augidog

    augidog Banned

    den sez and my tach shows 3000 is about right. i get a nice 2700-2800k idle that's pretty silent :)

    edit: shoot i see i was too late...my allen wrench is still just fine :rolleyes:
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2008
  6. rossfree

    rossfree Member

    This is a good spot for Access Holes...

    Well you've pointed out a good place for access holes. The motor mount bracket, which is bolted to the clutch bell housing should have some access holes to allow the engine w/clutch to be removed without further disassembly. Just two holes punched into the mounting bracket would allow a T-handle allen wrench direct access to the lower clutch-bell housing bolts. That's a small design change well worth doing.

    Whatcha think Augidog... want to pass it on?

    As for the clutch bell being out-of-round, that would definitely cause chatter as the clutch engaged. I'm not sure what a reasonable tolerance is for roundness of the clutch bell. If it chatters or grabs more than might be reasonable, a call to GEBE might be in order.

    Anyway... glad you got it back together.