I need some sodering advice

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by Large Filipino, Jan 24, 2008.

  1. I figure this should go in the white zone cause sodering I would think is rarely done on our bikes but I have a special situation here.
    I was cleaning out my tool pouch and I like to keep everything I could think of in it. Anyway my brand new spare magneto got mixed up in the shuffle and when I took it out of my tool pouch I find that the blue wire came off.
    Now I could run to Lowes and get a soder gun,some flux and some soder. I saw a kit there the other day.
    Here's the thing. I've never sodered before.
    Do I need to completly take the old soder off? How much flux should I use? What type of flux is best? Do I put the soder wire to the gun and allow the soder to drip on the work? Will the heat mess up the magneto?
    If this thing was even slightly used I would just give Duane a call for a new one. But this puppy is brand new and I like to have it in my tool pouch for I regularly travel miles from home.
    So if anyone can give me some advice I would be muchos gracias!
     

  2. Dockspa1

    Dockspa1 Guest

    Hey Large, Use fluxcore solder somewhere around a 60/40 lead. Put a wet washrag on the parts you are worried about. If you are just wiring a broken wire to the othe half of the broken wire you can use a cheap soldering iron. Clean the copper with steelwool or sand paper until it is shiny. strip a good 3/8ths inch of the wire insulation off each side. Tin the wires by placing the soldering tip under each one (one at a time) and place the tip of the solder on top of the wire until the solder melts like butter and coats the copper. Then hold both the tinned wires on top of each other and the soldering iron underneath until they blend together. you might want to put a little more solder on at this point.
    Make sure the soldering iron is full hot before applying to the wire.
    Thats it my friend!
    Doc
     
  3. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    hmmmm... we could all use a soldering pictorial! hint...hint ;)
     
  4. Dockspa1

    Dockspa1 Guest

    You could just clean the ends and twist them together then solder them both at once without tinning them first. Thats the way I usually do it unless its High Voltage and Amperage.
    Dave, I'll see if I can get pics. Hint Taken.
    Doc
     
  5. Well it snapped right from the magneto. The tab is still there but the old soder is on there too. Can you just melt off the old soder with the soder gun,or do you need to somehow scrape it off?
    Thanks in advance!!
     
  6. ibdennyak

    ibdennyak Guest

    just melt it off. Doesn't even have to be completely off, just shiny. Usually the wire goes through a hole in the tab. You can buy a desoldering tool (like a big rubber bulb syringe or do like I do and use a straw. Heat it up, blow (not suck :shock:) the solder out of the hole, stick in the wire, and resolder. Big thing is to use the wire or tab to melt the solder, not the tip. Otherwise you will get what is called a cold joint. Looks OK, but there is a weak mechanical bond. That's about all there is to it. Oh, a small needle nose vise grip, or some kind of a locking device can be clamped on your part as a heat sink to prevent melting stuff you don't want to get melted. Just keep it far enough from your joint to allow the joint to reach soldering temp. Good luck and have fun....now you're an electronic tech. :grin:

    Denny
     
  7. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    On any job only keep the heat from the souldering iron on it for as short a time as possible...only to properly complete the job.Excessive heat for long periods of time melts insulation and evaporates too much flux making it weak and potentially unuseable(it's called a dry joint)
    Practice on spare wire and similar connections till u get the hang of it.....you'll get there.

    PS...a souldering iron of about 30watts should be fine...don't go crazy with power. :smile:
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 25, 2008
  8. HoughMade

    HoughMade Guest

    Use Rosin Core- never use the plumbing solder- go to radio shack and get it.

    If you use an inexpensive soldering iron or gun w/ lower power- 40 watts or below, let it warm up for a good long time before trying to start. I picked up an ancient, but perfect 250 watt Craftsman from a thrift store for $4.75, so warm up isn't an issue for me.
     
  9. Wow this is all good stuff. I'm gonna do a lot of practicing before I get on with the real work. Y'all definetly gave me some stuff to go on.
    So why is the rosin core better?
     
  10. cooltoy

    cooltoy Member

    All good points, the only thing I would like to add is that solder flows toward heat, so it needs to be nice and hot.Tinning is also a good idea as this way you are sure of a good bond and you don't need to use as much heat when you do put the wires together to solder them. There is a glue/solder that conducts electricity if you would rather go that way. Maybe a hot melt glue gun could also be used after just to keep things in place, if you use the 'solder-glue".
     
  11. Dockspa1

    Dockspa1 Guest

    Flux and Rosin are one and the same as far as I know.
    Here is some pics asked for by Davo.
    Make sure the solder gets to a shine or it will as said before, become a cold solder.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. smitty

    smitty Guest

    If it has solder on it from a broken solder joint you don't really need flux or rosin or more solder. you can just put the pieces back together and apply the soldering gun/iron (under is best but on top works too) until the existing solder melts then remove the heat.
     
  13. HoughMade

    HoughMade Guest

    Rosin core is a specific kind of flux core. Acid core is another kind, but do not use it. Rosin core is made for electrical work. Acid core needs too high a heat to melt and does not stick to electrical connections well.
     
  14. cooltoy

    cooltoy Member

    After reading your post (houghmade) it hit me . You are so very correct and I remember learning that in school. Thanks for the reminder.
     
  15. Dockspa1

    Dockspa1 Guest

    Yep, as soon as you said the word acid, it hit me also. Thanks for straightening that part out.
     
  16. Dockspa1

    Dockspa1 Guest

    Never realised how talented I was until I soldered while taking pictures at the same time.
     
  17. Loews didn't have a sodering kit they tell me I know I saw it there before oh well their loss I went to Home Depot instead and bought their 20 dollar kit.
    I should left it well enough alone the first time I let it cool. But nooooooo. I thought I could make it look better.
    Anyway,here's my finished product.
    I can solder now!
    I can solder now!
    I learned a skill today.
    I have been edjumacated.
    THANK YOU TEACHERS!!!!
     

    Attached Files:

  18. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    It's always a valuable skil to learn and u use it for the rest of your life.You'll find though sometimes u wish u had 3 hands,but being resourcefull you'll also find tricks to get around that...........well done. :smile:
     
  19. Dockspa1

    Dockspa1 Guest

    I'm fairly certain that you have enough solder on it Large. Better too much than not enough, I guess.
    Teach a man to fish----
     
  20. ibdennyak

    ibdennyak Guest

    Right you are Houghmade. Just for a little additional information......flux core is designed for electrical, while acid core is designed primarily for plumbing. Acid core has been reformulated since (it became illegal ?) without lead. That is the primary reason it is harder to work with. It melts at a higher temp, and it doesn't stick well to anything. :smile: Lead in plumbing, paint, etc has been a health concern for several years since it accumulates in the body, rather than being flushed out.

    Now to make this on topic I will have to close with.....victims of lead poisoning can't build or ride motorized bikes.

    Denny
     
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