Idle Problem

[ezdzd]

Yeah steve if the cable inner always pulls when the casing is bent, you have a problem. what your trying to say is completely irrelevant to the fact that a cable housing adjustment will affect the idle speed of the motor. It's shorter relative to the outer casing? If the cable is being bent the housing is being bent as well. Relative to each other the are the same. My statement saying that the length of the cable remains the same is meant to be viewed as follows: Hold a cable straight horizontally. Now slide the housing that is shorter than the cable along that cable. The cable itself does not shorten. Bent or not bent a cable in a housing occupies the same space and takes up the same volume relative to each other. They both move, bending something doesn't change it's molecular makeup. I'm not trying to call you out or anything but it is what it is. Perhaps during your years of motorcylcle riding you had improperly positioned throttle cables. mu hahaha. I believe the idle screw's purpose is to regulate the electrical current output from the magneto to the seat. I was trying to be helpful, but I've got better things to do with my time. oh yeah im right, why cause i said so trust me.

 

[Stan4d]

Yeah steve if the cable inner always pulls when the casing is bent, you have a problem. what your trying to say is completely irrelevant to the fact that a cable housing adjustment will affect the idle speed of the motor. It's shorter relative to the outer casing? If the cable is being bent the housing is being bent as well. Relative to each other the are the same. My statement saying that the length of the cable remains the same is meant to be viewed as follows: Hold a cable straight horizontally. Now slide the housing that is shorter than the cable along that cable. The cable itself does not shorten. Bent or not bent a cable in a housing occupies the same space and takes up the same volume relative to each other. They both move, bending something doesn't change it's molecular makeup. I'm not trying to call you out or anything but it is what it is. Perhaps during your years of motorcylcle riding you had improperly positioned throttle cables. mu hahaha. I believe the idle screw's purpose is to regulate the electrical current output from the magneto to the seat. I was trying to be helpful, but I've got better things to do with my time. oh yeah im right, why cause i said so trust me.

Sorry but I think you are on the losing end of the disscussion. Working on LP forklifts I have found that bending the accell cable I could vary the engine RPMs. Nothing changes, simply you have two things of equal length when you bend them their relational position changes.....if you really want to see it in action, take 2 equal lengths of fuel line. Hold them side by side....both ends are even. Bend them into a 180 degree bend. The outer one will appreat to be shorter. My daughter taught me that trick....she learned it in preschool. Just sayin.
One other thought, are you sure that the attitude is neccesary?

 

[AussieSteve]

Thanks for the support, Daryl, you explained it well.

I was going to suggest grabbing a cable and casing by both ends, clamping the cable to the casing between finger and thumb, then bending the casing. The inner cable will be pulled between your fingers.


Regarding this:- "oh yeah im right, why cause i said so trust me."

No, not because I said so. I suggested that you test the theory, as I have, but you prefer to argue.

 

[Stan4d]

I found an easy way to overcome the pedal govenors at the gokart track using this theory....the pedal had a screw stop for the govenor, by bending the cable I was able to go faster than my brother, not much but when we were both at wide open I had the advantage.

 

[JimKamenidis]

help!
I am using the stock two metal brackets to mount the engine and one of the little metals, on the back vertical tube, snaped only on the one side where the bolts go through because I over tightened them, but the bracket is still on and pretty tight too..
And the engine is still pretty solid, do you think I am in trouble??

 

[Stan4d]

Are you able to post a pic of the problem....I have extra brackets and I could mail you a replacement if it is the one I am thinking of.

 

[ezdzd]

kinda missed my point. wasn't tryin to be a ****. The cable shouldn't be positioned in a manner that provides an opportunity for the idle to change when the handle bars are turned. "Yeah steve if the cable inner always pulls when the casing is bent, you have a problem. what your trying to say is completely irrelevant to the fact that a cable housing adjustment will affect the idle speed of the motor." "My statement saying that the length of the cable remains the same is meant to be viewed as follows: Hold a cable straight horizontally. Now slide the housing that is shorter than the cable along that cable. The cable itself does not shorten." I suppose assuming that one would not route a cable that would move when you turned was a mistake.

 

[ezdzd]

Here's an idea for your mount. The original rear mount broke within the first week. Keep in mind this is a pic of the front mount, but my rear mount has pretty much the same concept. It would probably be a good idea to read up on what to replace out of the box. I think there are a few threads with lists. Personally would suggest new mounting bolts, chain, and throw out the tensioner. Half the fun of owning one of these things is working out the kinks at the start.

 

[JimKamenidis]

I have changed all the mounting bolts because some failed really early..
As a matter of fact I have seen this mounting method in SBP but does it also fit the back vertical tube that I had a problem with?
Also without a chain tensioner how will the chain fit correctly, because either it was too slack and then after I got rid of a pair of chain-links it was too tight and even wouldn't come together!

 

[ezdzd]

You'll have to make it yourself, just some steel, proper size u-bolt, and a good dose of locktite. If you take a close look at SBP's shift kit where mounts under/around by the jackshaft I think it's kinda similiar. I'll try to sneak a picture in tomorrow, mine's burried between two chain guards and a battery case. I haven't had and problems with mine so far... If your still using the stock chain you can use metal shims inbetween the engine and and the rear mount to eliminate the tensioner. I havent' tried this but i've seen it done. If your dead set on the stock chain I think its a #35? chain, you can get half links for it, Lowes, Home depot, maybe even saw them at SBP. I've switched to a #41 chain. Was going to go with a 415 HD, but you've got to buy 2 to make it fit. So $10 for a #41 from a farm supply store vs. $50 from the bike shop, easy economics. You can also make a spring loaded tensioner. Do a search, I think i remember seeing a parts list for it. I've put just at 2200 miles on the chain and had little to no stretch and more importantly, it hasn't broken! Don't sweat the small stuff!