I'm considering a Grubee HD Axle Kit and would like some opinions...

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by midlifecrisis, Jun 23, 2009.

  1. midlifecrisis

    midlifecrisis New Member

    I built this bike a while ago, and have really enjoyed it. However, as you all know, the weak link with the basic 2 stroke kit is the sprocket clamped to the spokes. To improve the situation, I bought a clamshell adapter, but I had to modify it to make it fit my hub, and I'm not entirely happy with how things ended up. Recently a dog decided to jump out in front of me, which forced a panic stop, which tore the coaster brake arm loose, causing my axle to stretch and snap. Rather than kluge it back together again, I'm thinking of buying this hub kit and lacing it into my wheel. I've read this thread, and it seems like I should come out all right, but want to know if anyone thinks I ought to go a different route. Any opinions? Thanks in advance!
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2009

  2. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    Dunno which clam shell u bought....i'm assuming it was from LFM.Theirs is ok,a pain to install though & rather expensive for what u get.
    I've got the Grubee HD Axle also & if i was doing this again i'de go this way....heard nothing but good reports(unlike the grubee with it's thread problems)
    http://home.roadrunner.com/~bikeparts/sprocket_adapter.htm
     
  3. midlifecrisis

    midlifecrisis New Member

    clamshell issues

    Yes, I bought the LFM clamshell adapter (I will say that the clamshell you linked to looks much better.) I ordered the "coaster brake" size, and it did not fit my hub (hub was too large in diameter). I called LFM, and they weren't very anxious to refund my money. They suggested I find a machinist to resize the inside diameter. I used a drill press and a large drill bit, and clamped the adapter together and did it myself.

    The next issue I has was that the coaster brake arm requires a standoff to clear the sprocket, and the standoff they include with the kit was for a straight-slot connection to the coaster brake arm, whereas my coaster brake arm had a star-shaped interface. I solved this issue by obtaining a slot-type coaster brake arm, and welding their standoff to my star-shaped cone. Initially I just tacked it, and the weld broke loose and I snapped the axle. I put in a new axle, and this time welded the **** out of the standoff, and it hasn't come apart since. However, the latest issue was caused by the coaster brake arm slipping off their slotted standoff during an emergency braking situation. One solution I was considering is to simply weld the brake arm directly to the standoff.

    The next issue I had with the adapter is that the threads in the aluminum clamshell weren't great (metal shavings weren't cleaned out, and threads were a little rough), and the supplied bolts didn't fully engage all the way through the adapter when everything was bolted up. After 50 miles or so, I had loosening/pullout issues (note: I did use locktite), resulting in some of the bolt holes being stripped. I drilled all the holes oversize, tapped them, and installed longer bolts and haven't had any further problems with the bolts.

    At this point, I never want to have to mess with it again (or for a very long time), and think a lace-in solution is probably the best way to go. On my bike, the rear brake is definitely a weak-link, and even if I replace the axle and weld the brake arm to the standoff, I have a feeling it will somehow break again. I like that the HD Axle kit comes with a strap brake, and am assuming that it will be better than a coaster brake. What were your thread issues with the Grubee hub? I read a thread about the non-iso threads on the pedal sprocket side, but I think it can be solved by using an electric scooter sprocket. Did you buy your hub from bicycle-engines? Did you use the brake that came with it, and if so, does it provide decent stopping power? How much should I expect to have to spread my frame to accommodate the axle?
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2009
  4. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    I also had similar problems with LFM clam shell & overcame them in a way something like yours....a pain & i wouldn't be keen to repeat the process.

    No issues with the hub threat,it fitted perfect but i bought mine from MBB Imports.Didn't use the suppled brake cos i tapped the bearings out of the hub then turned the axle around so it could be used on a Mountain Bike with v-brakes.Bought spokes/rim & laced the wheel myself.
    From what i hear the suppled brake is adequate & the thread problem with BE.com SHOULD be resolved by now.
    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/motorised-bi...34.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=|301:1|293:2|294:30
     
  5. midlifecrisis

    midlifecrisis New Member

    thank you for the info! i am sort of wondering whether i'm just thinking "the grass is greener" with the HD Axle solution, and hoping to avoid another round of disappointing make-it-work engineering. are you happy with the Grubee hub you have? i only ask because you seem to say you'd go with the Manic Mechanic clamshell if you were to do another build.
     
  6. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    I'm happy with the Grubee but u have to keep things in perspective(Chinese products are not noted for their longevity)
    MM's is taylor made to fit YOUR particular hub so their shouldn't be any problems like LFM,& at approx half the price it represents good value.The only thing i don't like is that your sorta obligated to buy their sprocket/sprockets;sorta.........................nothing's perfect.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 24, 2009
  7. midlifecrisis

    midlifecrisis New Member

    hmmmm...

    thanks again for your time and info. given the cost (hub + spokes + wheel build) and effort required to put it all together, i'm thinking that i might just rework what i have one more time and hope that it holds up. had i known of the MM clamshell and went that route, i probably wouldn't have had any issues.
     
  8. Stink Bike

    Stink Bike Member

    Does anyone know what it costs to have a wheel re laced with one on the hubs?
     
  9. midlifecrisis

    midlifecrisis New Member

    cost to have wheel laced.

    it depends where you live, and who you find to do it. my local bike shop charged me $45 to do my front wheel (put in sturmey drum brake), + $35 for spokes. a bit expensive, but they were the only ones i could find to do it.

    another alternative i discovered when looking on ebay is this complete wheel. no brake, and pricey shipping, but its probably cheaper than buying a hub and paying to have it laced.
     
  10. bughuggger

    bughuggger New Member

     
  11. midlifecrisis

    midlifecrisis New Member

    Sturmey Drum

    i have the x-fdd dyno hub, and have been very happy with it. it provides plenty of stopping power, and my back brake is just the coaster brake that came on the bike. i have ridden it over mt. soledad twice ( i estimate ~15% grade), and didn't have any overheating issues on the way down. i tried to keep the speed up to avoid being overtaken by cars on the way down, but did use the brake a fair amount. overall, i am extremely happy with the product, and i am usually very picky.
     
  12. bughuggger

    bughuggger New Member


    I like this idea overall, but how is hill climbing? Isn't there some extra drag from the hub dynamo. I'm aware that you can get a hub without a dynamo, but all the bullet lights and stuff you can get is so neat.
     
  13. midlifecrisis

    midlifecrisis New Member

    i'm not actually using the dynamo to power anything at this point, and any drag seems negligible. i run a 48 tooth sprocket, so it climbs hills pretty well.
     
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