I'm stuck... Electrical?

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by shred_cred, Mar 7, 2012.

  1. shred_cred

    shred_cred New Member

    Ok so I'm not sure exactly how it started but a few months ago my engine was bogged slightly at about 80% power. Then my clutch bearings blew out. My drive train seized up and my bike was jammed. I let it sit for a few months until I replaced the clutch bearings.

    Now that I've fixed that, I think I have an electrical problem. I'm certain I get compression because I roll around in neutral and hear the bop-bop-bop as the engine turns over. It even fired once but only once.

    So I replaced the CDI ignition and got a NGK "BH6" (?) spark plug and still no firing. Fuel is fine and I can't see why it wouldn't be getting air... So of course the elusive electrical system. I cut the white wire off the magneto because some people said that it's the kill wire and may interupt the flow.

    I also thought maybe the magneto timing was off but it's directly attached to the drivetrain so I don't see how it would have shifted. Maybe it has?

    Any ideas?
     

  2. bmoney

    bmoney New Member

    Hmm...
    I could DEFINITELY be wrong, but... my guess is maybe you junked the woodriff key and fragments of it could have been what caused your drive train to seize up. If this was the case the it would most certainty affect your timing, because with out the woodriff key the drive gear will likely be slipping on the crankshaft. The shafts taper may have turned the drive gear once or twice, hence why you DID see one spark..

    Remove the 5 screws on the clutch cover, then jam the gears and loosen the flat head on the small gear, then get out your gear puller(if your kit came with one) and thread it into the small gear. Then using an open end wrench, thread it in until the gear comes off. From there you will be able to see if your woodriff key is still in alive in there haha..
    Good luck! Let us know how it goes
     
  3. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    If it is a timing issue, and a sheared key, you will find it under the magneto cover. Remove the cover, rotate the piston to TDC and this is the proper placement of the rotor.
    [​IMG]
    ANY other key (the other 3 ) broken will not effect the starting of the engine, just the propelling of the bike. Any other broken key can inhibit the engine from starting as moving the pike forward the gears will slip. So if you can peddle the bike, and when releasing the clutch, the engine turns over you are fine. Even with a sheared rotor key, the spark plug will fire, just not at the proper time.

    Now to the bearings...which bearings did you replace..the clutch bearing in the pad holder (57 of them) or the 2 clutch shaft bearings?

    Are you sure, with the engine in neutral (clutch disengaged..clutch handle pulled) the bike should freewheel and the piston not moving. That is if the clutch is adjusted correctly.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2012
  4. shred_cred

    shred_cred New Member

    Ya I replaced the 2 clutch shaft bearings. So that's fine

    And sOrry you're right I didn t mean nuetral. I mean peddling in neutral is fine and when I drop the clutch the engine turns.

    The woodruff key makes sense. I tried to rotate the magneto/rotor from the left side of the engine and it's still attached tO the drivetrain. It just rolled my bike forward and turned the engine. So it could be jammed. I tried pulling the rotor off but it only came out a couple mm.


    Is it supposed to be able to come off the left side or do you have to get in from the gear side?
     
  5. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

  6. shred_cred

    shred_cred New Member

    So my rotor lines up with correct timing and its still solidly connected to the driveshaft... so I didn't even bother taking the gear off. So either I bought the wrong plug (unlikely) or my magneto is fried I'm guessing? How likely is that. Its the only thing I can think of....


    And as I said earlier it was the blown clutch bearings that seized the drivetrain not the broken key. That Problem was solved...
     
  7. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    so you have split the case, to replace the clutch bearings.

    this means you have replaced every gasket, hopefully. including the crank seals.

    replaced the rings and possibly piston if required.

    replaced plug and cdi but havent even mentioned checking for spark. usually the first thing to do. without doing that first, everything else is simply a waste of time. you said it fired once, so why assume its ignition? it isnt "elusive", its basic and simple! it either works or somethings wrong and it doesnt!

    "fuel is fine" is rather vague...so theres fuel in the line? what about the carb itself? has it been stripped down and cleaned out? fuel level checked? jet isnt blocked?

    tried taking the carb off and pouring a few ml of petrol down the intake and starting it then?

    maybe it has spark, you tried some fuel down the inlet... and still no go? check the muffler! etc etc

    its all about eliminating possibilities systematically, one by one, until the problems sorted.
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2012
  8. shred_cred

    shred_cred New Member

    No I didn't need to split the case to replace the clutch bearing I just took the clutch out.

    No I haven't replaced any gaskets.

    Same goes for piston rings etc. They're solid metal... I would put my money on electrical before I would guess that solid metal would fall apart.

    No it doesn't get a spark that's why I'm assuming it's electrical after replacing 2/3 major electric components.

    Fuel is fine means fuel is fine. I have unburned fuel coming out my exhaust port and it doesn't fire with gas shot directly into the cylinder.

    Fuel level checked? Come on give me some credit...... I know when I have gas in the tank
     
  9. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Her is a way to determine if it's fuel or spark. Remove the carburetor bowl drain screw and drain carburetor (eliminates flooding) Works better with a clean dry spark plug. Start with a little squirt of starting fluid or throttle body cleaner.
    I drilled a small hole in the filter cover to make it easier. This was my first one, now I drill the hole on the left side as its easier to squirt just before I mount the bike.
    [​IMG]
    I start my bike with this method EVERY time I ride, as I can't peddle normally. Works every time. I have never had to peddle more then the length of my truck. If its fuel this will enable to start the engine with minimum effort. If not I'd look at the electrical, compression, or exhaust.

    Engine won't start..read this..
    https://docs.google.com/document/d/1omvHOrPyn5zvv-2sx-GNyWPjmryEeLt7zYVQup22ppE/edit
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2012
  10. shred_cred

    shred_cred New Member

    Ya i even thought it might be stale gas so I shot a squirt Of new fuel into both the intake and directly into the chamber. I'm goin with a new magneto coil
     
  11. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

  12. shred_cred

    shred_cred New Member

    New magneto problem solved
     
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