Installing the 26mm carb on NE5

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by MoonKS, Apr 28, 2008.

  1. MoonKS

    MoonKS Member

    Hi all,

    I just purchased a brand new 26mm carb that was on an unused NE5 Whizzer motor.

    I have included pictures - it should ship out soon. The seller said the spacers/gaskets are included.

    Will I need any sort of adapter to get this to fit? I am not even sure what these go for new (when they were available) - I paid $65. Worthy investment?



    Attached Files:

  2. bill green

    bill green Member

    Hi Matthew as per Quenton I milled manifold down to 1/2 to 5/8 looking at clearance,I all so step drilled carb side to match port size then used taper roll for finish .last thing, I shortend thread on head side of stud toget final fit . you will also need to order k/n filter for this size carb .If you cant find filter or dont want to mess with machining ,PM me or Quenton ...Bill Green P.S. Ihad to make two new gaskets ,I have gasket punches
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2008
  3. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    I addition to Bill's comment, let me add the following. First the original NE 26 MM carburetor setup used a plastic [bake-o-lite] spacer approx 3/8" wide, but had a nasty habit of cracking [Ask Rif, as we found his cracked at Portland, IN last year]. Use the new aluminum manifold, but as Bill stated it is too long and works better if shorteden to approx. 5/8". And as Bill said it helps to shorten the mounting studs to allow the correct fit.
    The early NE original 26 MM carburetor kit came with the spacers & gaskets, and cost over $100.00, and was made in Tiawan. There are several versions being sold, but are made in Japan, have different main and pilot jets, but can be modified with earlier Whizzer parts.
    Have fun,

    POLQWA New Member

    K/n Filter

    I put a 26mm on my whizzer and used my stock air cleaner. It was real tight to get on but it went. Would I gain performance if I got a new k/n filter to fit better? If so does anybody have the k/n part number that will fit?
  5. bill green

    bill green Member

    kn airfilter

    Hi the k/n filter I use is red and has about 20% more surface ..Bill Green
  6. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Bill, Do you know the part numbers for the K & N filters for the 22 & 26 MM carburetors.

    Have fun,
  7. MoonKS

    MoonKS Member

    I received my 26mm carb today - it is a Keihin PD made in Japan.

    The spacers and gaskets that were supposed to be included as per the auction did not come with the carb - hopefully I can still get them from the seller.

    I noticed that the overflow tube was wet at the tip and my bike was gunked up again - it is gasoline flowing out the end of the overflow tube on my stock 22mm NE5 carb. I have also noticed my MPG is not as good as I would expect - so doing some research I discovered this -

    " If your carburetor has higher than expected gas consumption and is dripping gas, this could be the culprit. After you've removed the float, you'll see the float valve hanging from it. When the float bowl fills up with gas, the float pushes on the float valve which in turn shuts off the flow of gas to the carburetor until the gas level goes down in the float bowl."

    What is the solution to remedy this? NOOB ALERT - WARNING - where is the float even located on my carb?


  8. bill green

    bill green Member

    Hi Quenton for the 26mm carb I use K&n 62-1450 ,I dont have the number for the 22mm carb here . hope this helps Bill Green
  9. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Matthew, & everyone,
    Here is some information about Whizzer carburetors, first the carburetor you purchased wasn't the original version used on the early NE motor. The early NE motor used a carburetor made in Tiawan, not Japan. The original Whizzer version was a "PD", not a "PZ". The original Whizzer 26 MM cost a lot more, but was a Bolt on item, whereas the "PZ" versions usually require some "tuning" to work correctly. The original Whizzer unit had a 100 mail jet , but the "PZ" has a 92. I am working with several owners tyring to figure out the correct jets & settings to work smoothly on the Whizzer motor. Here are a few comments that might help concerning the 22 & 26 MM carburetors, first the float height on the 22 MM is 22 MM, and is 14 MM on the 26 MM carburetor [bend the tab holding the shut off valve on the float to arrive at the correct height]. The measurement is taken [with the float bowl removed] with the carburetor turned up side down, with the float resting on the shut off valve, measure from the top of the floats to the bottom of the carburetor housing. One word of caution, if you get the float bowl gasket on the 22 MM carburetor wet with gas it will swell up, and you will have to wait until it shrinks down to size before re-installing the float bowl. The idle mixture adjustment is different between the 22 & 26 MM carburetor, on the 26 MM the adjustment controls fuel, and on the 22 MM it controls the air, so clockwise on the 22 MM is reducing the air and making the carburetor rich, but on the 26 MM clockwise will lower the fuel and go lean. The normal main jet is 88 on the 22 MM carburetor. The normal setting for the idle mixture screw on the 22 MM is 1 - 1/2 turn out, and one turn out on the 26 MM version.
    Have fun,
  10. MoonKS

    MoonKS Member

    Hi Quenton,

    Thanks for the wealth of information.

    You said the original 26mm was Taiwan and a PD - the one I have is Japan and PD - both PD. I do not have a PZ - so does this make a difference as far as being bolt on as you said the PD was just a bolt on and the PZ was not?

    Am I overthinking this? I guess since I got the 26mm cheap enough I can open her up and see how she works - reverse engineer it and maybe learn a bit more about how they work. Next to riding the Whizzer I am having a grand time learning so much about how an internal combustion engine works!


  11. ren

    ren Guest

    K & N filter

    Hi Quenton, The part number for the K & N filter for the 22 mm carb is 62-1390. I have one on my 07 NE5.

    See Ya
  12. MoonKS

    MoonKS Member

    I took the 26mm carb I bought and took it apart to learn more about how carbs work - the main jet is stamped 88 - smaller than I expected.

    I am going to check the jet size on the 22mm carb tomorrow - if it is like RD's then I will want to try going down to 88 to get rid of the similar stumble I am having.
  13. bill green

    bill green Member

    Hi matthew I have a ton of jets No/84 ,but most other sizes .so yell if you need some .....Bill
  14. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    Hi Matthew
    Did you check the jet size yet?

  15. MoonKS

    MoonKS Member

    Hey Jim,

    Well, if we stop having tornados (We have the warning sirens going off as I type this with confirmed touchdowns about 20 miles east of here) I hope to tear into the carb tomorrow.
  16. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    I am back! Just returned from the show in Dawson Springs, KY. If the government knew how much fun we all had they would either ban it or tax it.
    The original 26 MM carburetor from Whizzer used a 100 main jet, and most of the 22 MM used a 95. Please don't assume all 22 & 26 MM carburetors are the same, because they aren't. I have seen several that will work with a few changes and some so far off they will never work. If the main jet is marked with a number it isn't original, because all the stock Whizzer carburetors come with un-marked main jets. On the original Whizzer 22 MM carburetors the main jet should be changed to either a 86 or 88. On the original 26 MM the main jet should be left stock [100] unless you have modified the motor [my motors usually run between 120 and 130 main jets on the 26 MM carburetor].
    Whizzer OuterBanks,
    Last edited: May 26, 2008
  17. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Bill, When I used the Weber head my 26MM carburetor was using a 108 with the clip in the center. The special motor I ran at Dawson Springs, KY was pulling fuel through a 112 main jet, but managed a record 8820 [corrected 8535] RPMs on the digitial tachometer. I have been messing around with a NE Whizzer head with great results, and used it on the bike at the KY event. I had to do a lot of combustion chamber work, but it sure did pay off. I had 165 lbs of compression [checked with a hot motor], and was still able to run regular gas [87].
    Have fun,
  18. bill green

    bill green Member

    Hi all final rewrite on PZ26 carb install and jetting.On NE5 motor with weber head ,1/2 inch long manifold and Iridium plug final jetting ended up at #41 idle jet #105 main jet and needle one up from lowest position.I tryed larger and smaller than the jets I ended up with.and tryed needle in all positions ..On my set up this combo runs the best ..Hope this helps anyone using A pz26 carb (NOTE) pz26 carbs use A bigger jet .not the same as A stock NE22mm carb...HAVE FUN Bill Green
  19. MoonKS

    MoonKS Member

    I put the 26mm carb on tonight - I have some photos with some questions.

    First, it started right up without issue - not sure of the choke positions on the 26mm carb - there is a black plastic lever that was horizontal. It clicks into two different positions when you push it down. Each position (excuse my lack of the terminology) opens up a brass slide-thingy on the side where the air filter attaches. When the choke position is horizontal this brass-slide thingy is fully closed.

    I am not sure how to use the choke on this carb - I got it started with the black choke lever fully depressed - but the Whizzer would never stay running unless I kept on the throttle.

    I took it for a ride around the block and down a long straightaway - I hit 40 MPH without a stumble at all. The 22mm was bogging down early on and then puttering after I hit 30 MPH. The 26mm was very smooth.

    Now, if I tried to close the choke and go back to horizontal the engine would die.

    Also, with it fully open if I let off the would die.

    What am I doing wrong?

    And if I understand correctly, I only see 1 adjustment screw - you can see it in the photo - there is a spring under it - is this idle or fuel/mixture?

    Thanks for any help in pointing me in the right direction.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 2, 2008
  20. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Moon,
    If the black lever is located upward [towards the tank] the choke is on, if the lever is in the middle the choke is partly on, and all the way down the choke is completly off [running position]. The low speed air/fuel screw is located under the bottom front [screw in gently until it bottoms out, turn screw back out 1 turn]. The screw you have circled is the idle adjustment screw, turn in until idle is good [approx 1200 RPMs].
    If you didn't buy the carburetor from me, it probally isn't totally correct for the Whizzer motor. A lot of 26 MM carburetors have been sold [from $65.00 to $75.00]and some work OK, and some are real problems. It has to do with the cut in the slide, the pilot jet, the main jet, and the needle jet. I will try to help as much as possible to help you make it work correctly.
    One thing you need to change right away is the spacer between the carburetor & the cylinder. The spacer you are using will not stop the cylinder heat from boiling the gas in the carburetor float bowl. You either need to use more spacers & gaskets or order the new aluminum manifold kit from a Whizzer dealer.
    Hope this helps.

    Have fun,