W
WIZARDOFOZONE
Guest
Today was my longest 'at one time' trip, 68 miles when I returned back to my driveway. You learn things over one continous long ride I think. There's a 'sweet humming spot' with these engines just like on a car or motorcycle or boat engine. Mine occurs about 27 mph, and I learned that I can tell before looking at my speedo now how fast I'm going by the engine sound.
Tightened everything and even used loctite on my original build, but a mysterous buzzing kept occurring. I finally found it on this long ride. Although the screw at the very end of the muffler can be tight, there can be a play in the washer underneith for some reason, even when testing and retesting the screw and threads action over n over. It took this trip to finally find it.
I'm cleaning the muffler out when it needs it in the future by blocking the exit hole and filling it with gasoline, because after various screws were tried when I got back, I finally decided to etch the clamshell cap and inner rim and JB Weld them together permanently.
Ca. mountain roads can be treacherous but sure teaches the quirks and pluses of coaster and caliper brakes. Stop for stop on really steep hills I'll take my caliper I added to the front over the stock coaster brake every time although for speeds at 25 to 35 the coaster really is good for the gradual long term 'drag' effect,while that final last 10 foot to stop grab seems much better and more controlled by calipers.
Although per capita, Ca. probably has more bicycle riders than most states,cagers hate us. When the bike lane runs out I noticed that just opposite the effect you get when you want an accurate track on a motorcycle, it seems easier on a bicycle to stay on the white line (sometimes thats all that's left of the bike lane on our roads here)by slowing down to 15 rather than speeding up ,at least thats what I notice on Red Peril.
Although the 'navy bean' sized dollop of grease is favored at the gear junction where they meet, I noticed I need twice that amount before it can be seen lightly slicking the drive train .... perhaps it will back up to a point where I'll need less.
In my opinion on very long mountain downhills, I found that Dac's optional push button clutch saves tired hands, and using it when the bike coasted faster than 20mph, occasionly blipping the throttle to provide oil to the engine was best for jerk and strain free long downhill performance and control.
Lastly, as my previous post discussed, I replaced Peril's 500 mile use whitewalls with black Kendra gumwalls because until a poster led me to Schawlbe's performance tires, I could find nothing in a premium whitewall except mushy $10 ones ... I'm quite suprised however in these temp Kendra All Terrains, a very fast better roll than the stock whites that were on the bike at purchase, and really changed my ability to lean left n right at high speed. Very delighted in such action for a $15 tire.
All in all a very very long sready country drive really helped me work out performance trends, bicycle tendencies, and engine preferences. And God bless blue or even red locktite especially on the 4 engine mount bolts n nuts.
Tightened everything and even used loctite on my original build, but a mysterous buzzing kept occurring. I finally found it on this long ride. Although the screw at the very end of the muffler can be tight, there can be a play in the washer underneith for some reason, even when testing and retesting the screw and threads action over n over. It took this trip to finally find it.
I'm cleaning the muffler out when it needs it in the future by blocking the exit hole and filling it with gasoline, because after various screws were tried when I got back, I finally decided to etch the clamshell cap and inner rim and JB Weld them together permanently.
Ca. mountain roads can be treacherous but sure teaches the quirks and pluses of coaster and caliper brakes. Stop for stop on really steep hills I'll take my caliper I added to the front over the stock coaster brake every time although for speeds at 25 to 35 the coaster really is good for the gradual long term 'drag' effect,while that final last 10 foot to stop grab seems much better and more controlled by calipers.
Although per capita, Ca. probably has more bicycle riders than most states,cagers hate us. When the bike lane runs out I noticed that just opposite the effect you get when you want an accurate track on a motorcycle, it seems easier on a bicycle to stay on the white line (sometimes thats all that's left of the bike lane on our roads here)by slowing down to 15 rather than speeding up ,at least thats what I notice on Red Peril.
Although the 'navy bean' sized dollop of grease is favored at the gear junction where they meet, I noticed I need twice that amount before it can be seen lightly slicking the drive train .... perhaps it will back up to a point where I'll need less.
In my opinion on very long mountain downhills, I found that Dac's optional push button clutch saves tired hands, and using it when the bike coasted faster than 20mph, occasionly blipping the throttle to provide oil to the engine was best for jerk and strain free long downhill performance and control.
Lastly, as my previous post discussed, I replaced Peril's 500 mile use whitewalls with black Kendra gumwalls because until a poster led me to Schawlbe's performance tires, I could find nothing in a premium whitewall except mushy $10 ones ... I'm quite suprised however in these temp Kendra All Terrains, a very fast better roll than the stock whites that were on the bike at purchase, and really changed my ability to lean left n right at high speed. Very delighted in such action for a $15 tire.
All in all a very very long sready country drive really helped me work out performance trends, bicycle tendencies, and engine preferences. And God bless blue or even red locktite especially on the 4 engine mount bolts n nuts.
