Is it worth fixing??

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Update

Update:

I took the scratched up piston off but when I pulled the piston pin out to remove the piston I realized that the part that goes into the hole of the crank which holds the piston pin snug to the crank was missing. The only thing going through the hole on the crank was the piston pin. This explains why the piston had so much play in it (side to side). I assume the part must have broken off and maybe fallen into the bottom part of the motor or broke apart and got sucked through the cylinder or something. Is this part a bearing or some kind of seal or something? Could those small balls I found in the exhaust pipe be from this part (see pic 2251 from post #7 of this thread)? Anyone know what this part is called? I think it might be called a "link bearing" but I'm not sure. There should be another one on the bottom of the crank too but I can't see it until I split the motor apart. Could this be my problem? I still want to split the engine and take a look inside for any further damage. I took a pic of what the crank looks like after I pulled the piston pin out and removed the piston (see pic #2270 below). Also, I noticed that there is a small hole in the top of the crank too. Does a pin or screw or something go in there to hold this missing part in place or is the hole just to allow oil to get in? Or maybe some other purpose??

I will finish the rest of the break down when I get the clutch puller.
 

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Nothing goes in the hole on top of the rod. A good educated guess is it's there so the wrist pin roller bearings can get lubricated.
The wrist pin is kept in place by the snap rings on either side of the wrist pin, that's all.
Like mentioned before, there are only 4 bearings in the crank case section, 2 (ball) crankshaft bearings and 2 (roller) rod bearings, unless the engine has rod bushings.
 
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Al:

Are my missing pieces called wrist pin roller bearings or just the wrist pin? I can see it in you're breakdown pic #16 in the hole on the top of the crank. It looks like I need the wrist pin roller bearings and the snap rings to also. Could these wrist pin roller bearings be what went through my cylinder and was found in the pipe? I have a feeling that the wrist pin broke or maybe just the snap rings at which point the bearings got grinded through my cylinder. But the question is: where could the snap rings be? I sure don't see them anywhere and I don't hear them or anything else rattling around in the bottom part of the motor. The bottom part of the crank feels solid with no play as best as I can tell without doing the complete breakdown.

Thanks for walking me through this, you have been so helpful I feel like I owe you something. I have purchased a new China Girl to replace this motor for my bike already (waiting for delivery) but this engine really isn't that old and I wouldn't mind getting it running again if it doesn't cost too much. I think I will need a new piston with rings and new wrist pin roller bearings with snap rings. The cylinder looks very clean with no big scrapes like the piston has. I guess its because the piston is aluminum and the cylinder isn't so when the bearings got sucked through the engine the aluminum gave way instead of the walls of the cylinder. However, if I get a new piston do I have to get a new cylinder to fit it anyway? Are they built to fit each other? Or, in other words, Will the fit be off enough to make a difference if I try to use my current one?

By the way this engine has bearings and not bushings as I first thought. I have found a crude parts list for this engine. It says: "two 202 bearing Egrade and two 202 bearing E grade" for the clutch. It also says "one link and one link bearing." I suspect this is what they call wrist pin roller bearings because the term "wrist pin roller bearing" is not listed.

If this thing is too much cash to fix, I will just keep the engine for parts. On the other hand if I replace all this stuff with good parts I will have a better engine than when it was new. haha. In any event, I will mod my new China Girl before it goes on the bike for sure this time. I had no idea I had to prep these motors out of the box, but, well, looking back, I should have known. I will follow you're pre-install mod list and buy any stuff I might need from you if you have it. Helping people is far better than advertising!
 
Al:

Are my missing pieces called wrist pin roller bearings or just the wrist pin?
They would have to be the roller bearings if that's where they came from. Once you pull the wrist pin out of the piston you can tell better.
I can see it in you're breakdown pic #16 in the hole on the top of the crank. It looks like I need the wrist pin roller bearings and the snap rings to also. Could these wrist pin roller bearings be what went through my cylinder and was found in the pipe?
If there are NOT 2 of them holding the wrist pin in place, could be. Looks like a "C" spring clip.
I have a feeling that the wrist pin broke or maybe just the snap rings at which point the bearings got grinded through my cylinder. But the question is: where could the snap rings be?
I doubt that the wrist pin broke, you would have so much damage to the point that the rod could break through the case. I suspect the clips broke.
I sure don't see them anywhere and I don't hear them or anything else rattling around in the bottom part of the motor. The bottom part of the crank feels solid with no play as best as I can tell without doing the complete breakdown.
Get a pencil magnet and search for them in the case, unless you plan on splitting the case. Then you should see if they are there.

Thanks for walking me through this, you have been so helpful I feel like I owe you something. I have purchased a new China Girl to replace this motor for my bike already (waiting for delivery) but this engine really isn't that old and I wouldn't mind getting it running again if it doesn't cost too much. I think I will need a new piston with rings and new wrist pin roller bearings with snap rings. The cylinder looks very clean with no big scrapes like the piston has. I guess its because the piston is aluminum and the cylinder isn't so when the bearings got sucked through the engine the aluminum gave way instead of the walls of the cylinder. However, if I get a new piston do I have to get a new cylinder to fit it anyway? Are they built to fit each other? Or, in other words, Will the fit be off enough to make a difference if I try to use my current one?
Not really as long as the parts match.
By the way this engine has bearings and not bushings as I first thought. I have found a crude parts list for this engine. It says: "two 202 bearing Egrade and two 202 bearing E grade" for the clutch. It also says "one link and one link bearing." I suspect this is what they call wrist pin roller bearings because the term "wrist pin roller bearing" is not listed.

If this thing is too much cash to fix, I will just keep the engine for parts. On the other hand if I replace all this stuff with good parts I will have a better engine than when it was new. haha. In any event, I will mod my new China Girl before it goes on the bike for sure this time. I had no idea I had to prep these motors out of the box, but, well, looking back, I should have known. I will follow you're pre-install mod list and buy any stuff I might need from you if you have it. Helping people is far better than advertising!
Here is a picture of the case, and associated parts.


6) Thick rubber crankshaft seal (7.5mm right side)
18) Crank Shaft Ball Bearing (2)
24) Piston Ring (2)
25) Piston
26) Piston Pin Snap Ring (2)
27) Piston Pin (Wrist pin)
28) Connecting Rod
29) Piston Pin Bushing or (needle bearings)
31) Needle Bearing (lower rod)
48) Thin rubber Bearing seal (3.8mm)
 

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I doubt the engine would be better than if was new if you rebuild it. Remember.....the replacement parts will be the same ole China stuff, from the same ole place !!!
 
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It's a hobby

I doubt the engine would better than if was new if you rebuild it. Remember.....the replacement parts will be the same ole China stuff, from the same ole place !!!

yeah, the engine might not be worth the trouble to fix it but I'm going to open it up anyway. If for no other reason than to learn about these engines. I don't know if it would really be better than when it was new or not but I don't think it would be any worse.

This is just a hobby to me, I don't rely on my MB as my primary mode of transportation. I got mine to carry along with my motorhome so I could park my RV and have some kind of transporation withouot having to tow a car. Also just to ride around town for fun on weekends, etc. I plan on building a 4 stroke MB next!
 
Al:
Okay, that really helps. I would definately need parts #24 (2), #25, and #29 to get it going again. I'm not sure what else. I will know more when I get the tool and open it up. I will post pictures when I do.
 
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