Is this going to be a problem for me [or my EH035]???

Discussion in '4-Stroke Engines' started by sparky, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. sparky

    sparky Active Member

    I'm using a mount plate that was designed for an entirely different engine.

    After drilling two holes and getting some longer bolts and some washers, this seems like it should theoretically work....

    .... but... but... but....

    The clutch housing isn't tightening up like the smaller, original bolts tighten it from the opposite direction.

    Pics necessary for description. . . . .

    FRONT SIDE
    pic001.jpg pic002.jpg pic003.jpg

    BACK SIDE
    pic004.jpg pic005.jpg pic006.jpg

    I'm thinking that to close the gap, I should have one of the original screws in one of the bottom holes, then the newer, longer screw shouldn't cause as much of a gap. But I'm not doing this today, at least.

    You guys think this is even that big of a problem, really?? If I didn't know any better, I'd say that the clutch springs are making slightly more noise than usual, but I haven't really paid attention to noises for weeks, so I'm not sure.

    I'd guesstimate the gap on the front side to be at least 1/16" of an inch, up to 1/8" of an inch. The back side is clearly not AS bad, but there is still a gap...

    Thoughts?

    P.S. Don't make fun of my messy LocTite job. I was doing the best I could at squeezing the last drops out of the container and holding my bike on its side, while not letting it touch the ground, since my oil sump was off and I'm afraid of dirt. :)
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2011

  2. sparky

    sparky Active Member

    By the way, not related to this thread at all, really....

    My clutch springs were making noises before at idle. My buddy told me to adjust the idle lower, because they were trying to engage. I did this, but the springs still rattle a bit at idle.

    I've seen it mentioned elsewhere that one should lube the clutch springs [or something to that effect]. Here's an example post.. http://motoredbikes.com/showpost.php?p=208216&postcount=2

    Is this something I need to worry about with my Subaru engine? ... or were those suggestions only for Happy Time engines?
     
  3. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    your bolts are bottoming out in the engine before they can pull the housing into place. (are you sure the housing has threads in it?)

    Try running your long bolts through the original way....until the gap is gone.... then stack up your washers & put a nut on the outside of your mounting plate.
    (You may need longer bolts....with more threads.)


    yeah.... happytime lube points.

    seem to remember needing a dab of grease on the cam-points of the clutch shoes? I could be wrong.
     
  4. sparky

    sparky Active Member

    I'm fairly certain that both sides have threads, but I'll triple check that the receiving end of my current direction has threads. Pretty frickin' sure.

    Oh yea... I'd have done it like that... but I could only find a bolt that wasn't threaded the inch or so from the head (the inch where the washers are), and THEN threaded the outer inch of the bolt.

    Hence, all the craziness with grinding & removing the sump.

    I guess I could just look for proper bolts. :( Too easy?
     
  5. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    hahaha Sometimes WE gotta do things the hard way!!
     
  6. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    thats cus the housing is a clearance fit for the bolt so it is clamped up to the backingplate when you tighten it.

    with tha long bolt round the wrong way youare just holding your bracket to the backing plate.

    did i mention aluminium breaks?

    PICT0222.JPG

    better to modify that bracket to hold it nice and snug rather than go messing around with washers....
     
  7. sparky

    sparky Active Member

    I figured that getting the proper bolts would be the best idea.

    Called BoltsDepot.com and a very, very helpful lady assisted me to finding if their bolts were fully threaded. She found some in #10-32, but I double checked, and my bolt is actually a 5mm-0.8.... and she had none fully threaded in that diameter-pitch. But she did recommend some places that both had what I was looking for.

    Maryland Metrics ( mdmetric.com ) had what I needed to a T -- socket cap, grade 12.9, fully threaded, 45mm long. Perfect!! And only a $10 minimum order.

    Soo.... now I've just gotta wait.
     
  8. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    The way it is currently, the engine/clutch is misaligned, and the clutch shoes are being moved in/out on each revolution. If nothing else, it'll cause extra wear on the clutch shoes, I would think.

    There's a spacer between the L-bracket and the engine... could that be replaced with a slightly longer version, or a couple of washers added between it and the bracket (on both the bottom bolts?) It would shift the gearbox over by the change in spacer length though.
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2011
  9. sparky

    sparky Active Member

    Right... it ran for about 15 seconds. But the extra noise made me think to stop. And stop I shall until it's "right".

    I think the "spacer" you're referring to, between the L-bracket and the engine, is my collection of washers.

    I guess adding one more washer on the front side (with largest gap) could change the thread positioning of the bolt and, hence, start threading the receiving end "sooner", making a smaller gap.....

    .... But I think just waiting on the proper bolt is the way to go. It took me several visits to stores and several phone calls, but I found the proper bolts. So I'm gonna use them, and we're all gonna make it thru this!!
     
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