Just bought my first kit. What do I need.

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by trekfelix, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. trekfelix

    trekfelix New Member

    Im am NOT a mechanically inclined guy. I can tighten a few bolts, But im not very handy.

    I ordered a DAX 2 stroke kit and I was wondering what lubes, oils, tools, supplies i will need to install it. I looked at the installation page and i still really dont understand some stuff :/ Thanks for any help
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2009

  2. biken stins

    biken stins Member

  3. bluegoatwoods

    bluegoatwoods Well-Known Member

    The link above to "the Crash Course" is gonna be a lot of help to you.

    And to give you a brief answer; typical bicycle tools, mostly, will get you by. You'll want metric wrenches. A torque wrench (for engine head tightening at least) is recommended. You'll also want a way to shorten the engine's chain. Small chain breakers for bicycle chain won't do it for you. So you'll want a bigger breaker. But a bench grinder can be used instead. Just be careful to not take too many links out.

    If I think about it a bit, I can probably come up with some other suggestions. If I do, I'll come back.

    In a nutshell, if you can work on a bicycle, then you can install one of these engines. Don't worry about that. You'll have fun.
  4. Esteban

    Esteban Active Member

    Since you state that you are NOT mechanically inclined,,,, I would suggest getting someone who is , to help you,, at least with the first build.
  5. trekfelix

    trekfelix New Member

    No special lubes or products needed? Dax build manual had some werid greases and stuff
  6. Huntington

    Huntington Member

    The first thing your going to need is imagination. The kits never go as planed but imagination goes a long way. As far as lubs, AW-2 is a great all around automotive lub, you can find it at auto parts stores in a tube, very useful for lubing the clutch pin and gears. you want to get some chain lub. Dont use WD-40 on your chain. Go buy some chain lub at the auto parts store or motorcycle parts store. The chain lub is also very good for lubing your cables. The only other must have is some 2-Stroke oil. If its an older bike you might want to get whats called Screwloose, helps with stuck fasteners.

    A set of metric Allen wrenches, a few metric sockets and wrenches. 10mm is a must have. A hammer for when things get out of control. Adjustable wrench and screw drivers are the basics.

    Youll need special bike tools if your going to be removing the crank but for a basic install you should be fine with hand tools.

    If its your first install you will deff need the internet and band-aids.
  7. art

    art New Member

    I have started to put the clamshell on my rear wheel and there is play between the spokes. As usual no help in the kit manual so should the bolts touch either spoke or be centered between them?
  8. Huntington

    Huntington Member

    can you take pics?
  9. art

    art New Member


    I decided that touching the spokes with the bolt would not allow the part to install properly so i centered it as best I could. Next Step will be to install the motor and chain. I find it hard to believe that this project could be accomplished in 2 hours. It took me that long just to repack the wheel bearings.
  10. Dave C

    Dave C Member

    Thing is the right bike AND mechanical knowledge it can be done. It's in the fitting on an improper frame when things take longer, sometimes much longer. My bike is a 28" and you'd think there would be lots of room. Thing is the frame is so contorted there's barely enough room for the motor. Carb is on the end of a clear plastic tube. I've broke the rear motor mount twice due to an incredably bad seat post angle. I'm actually going to change the angle of the seatpost in relation to the motor by using epoxy stick buildup. Basically I'll be building up wedges that correct the angle the motor meets the post at. I figure it's the torque from starting off thats tweaking the motor to an angle and I need to do more to stop it from turning in the mount. Broken studs are the culpret and I found some grade 8 level metric bolts instead of the chump non hardened studs. I also got some 1/4 inch fuel line that I'll be slipping over the bolts where the bolt passes the frame for more cushioning.
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2011
  11. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    yeah, where the bolt/spokes go isnt terribly important. concentricity IS! do up the bolts TIGHT!

    wheel bearings are pesky things at the best of times!

    if you plan on doing more of them, you need to get a CONE spanner. theyre very thin, for holding the bearing cones still while you tighten the locknut.

    i actually cheat here. by leaving one locknut fingertight, and when installing the wheel, tighten the axle nut on the OTHER end. then adjust bearing til right (right, not tight!), then tighten the other axle nut. which side the loose cone/locknut is on is important...left hand side, so it tends to clamp up against the frame, which will leave some play in the bearings. the other way, theyll tighten up against the bearings, which can break em or lock the wheel, and the axle nut will loosen off...

    works 99% of the time when done properly... :)

    crucial tools?

    lol @ hammer, a definite!

    flat head screwdriver. two sizes. get a whole set, with phillips.

    allen/hex keys, metric.

    10,12,13,14,15,17mm spanners. and theres the odd 8 and 9mm to mess you up...

    pliers and sidecutters. also needle nose pliers.

    an old speaker magnet! you throw your screws at it, they stick, they dont run away and hide then!

    a bench, somewhere fairly neat n tidy...

    patience :)

    that will cover 99% of repairs and maintenance until you get into crank removals etc...

    youre only mechanically useless cus you tell yourself you are....look, someone once designed it. they were a person too, with their own hangups! so anything is possible, cus someones already done it! all you gotta do is copy! or experiment a lil! :)
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2011