unfortunately, the only other option I can think of is replacing the rear wheel. If you've got a really good rim you might think of releasing the old rim to a new hub.
Chances are that the price of a new wheel is less than the price then getting your old wheel released with a new hub.
I believe you can just remove the torque arm that attaches to the left side of the rear fork to disable the coaster brake. Remove the wheel, then the nut on top of the torque arm and wiggle/pry it off, then replace the nut. Replace the wheel and try it.
There's been a big thread on this out at the other forum - remove the pads and the torpedo will unscrew into the spring. The best solution is to put washers on the axle inside to allow your cranks to pedal back and forth - while also allowing you to adjust how far you turn the cranks before the sprocket engages.
If you instal a washer and a spring then it doesn't matter how much you back pedal. It will always reengage. You just need to find the right spring and washer. I used to use a spring from a three speed hub to do the job. Now they are not as common as before.
i dont see how that keeps the "torpedo" from backing out and jamming up.
Its a course thread basically, and like any "bolt" if you keep turning it it will build up pressure pushing against the threads and either rip through the threads to back itself out or jam up completely.
Probably better to just let it disengage and re-engage, even if you have to do a full revolution to do so..