Leaking fuel tank

[Filippo]

Hello, I just recently assembled my 1st bike with very little to no problems. I took the bike on a few mile ride and runs great except I do have a couple issues. 1st, on my few mile ride my gas tank kept vibrating and falling to the side and when I tightened it, I must have tightened to much because I cause a leak on the bottom of tank where the bolt comes through the tank. Does anyone have any suggestions on a way to clog/stop the leak? I'm trying not to spend the $45 on gas tank liner coating. The leak in very small but annoying. My second question is The bike gets going well but when I go to stop, I pull the clutch in and as the bike slows down to a halt it just dies without hiting the kill switch. Does the idle need to be adjusted? My clutch is working great.... if anybody can help me give me a holler....thanx

 

[Mountainman]

hi
regarding your tank leaking
these THINGS can be welded -- by a cert welder who knows all about gas tank repairs
thinking that welder would braze it ???
how much is it to order a new tank ???
45 dollars for a tank liner seems pretty high -- not sure if that would make a solid repair ???

yes -- play with the idle screw -- time to learn to adjust is probably now ???

then have fun as you ride that THING

 

[Filippo]

I have a new tank on order now. I was kinda wondering if there was a quick temp. fix but thanx for your response

 

[Junster]

You can clean the outside with starting fluid and JB weld it for a temp fix. Use a piece of inner tube on the new tank between the tank tunnel and the frame to help stop the slipping around. I used weatherstrip cement to glue the rubber to my tank to help more. Get 4 metric nylock nuts for the tank studs so they don't loosen up. Welcome to Motorbiking.

 

[Mountainman]

I love JB Weld

You can clean the outside with starting fluid and JB weld it for a temp fix.

I do admit that I have been known to do THINGS just like this

but we really should not recommend using it on any gas tank repair
freak THINGS happen
starts to leak through JB
onto hot head
a little fire
we jump off not feeling well
walk to the side of the road
and watch our MB THING burn up

thinking it could have been worst ??

MM

 

[Junster]

Very good point Mountainman. Really would be a way better idea to just wait for the new tank.

 

[RdKryton]

I am using this product to seal an old Whizzer tank. Caswell gas tank sealer. This is a two part sealer that really coats the inside well. In the directions it say to cover any holes with tape and seal. After it hardens remove the tape and paint. It cost about $35.00 if i remember correctly. Good luck

Jim

 

[Irish John]

Hello, I just recently assembled my 1st bike with very little to no problems. I took the bike on a few mile ride and runs great except I do have a couple issues. 1st, on my few mile ride my gas tank kept vibrating and falling to the side and when I tightened it, I must have tightened to much because I cause a leak on the bottom of tank where the bolt comes through the tank. Does anyone have any suggestions on a way to clog/stop the leak? I'm trying not to spend the $45 on gas tank liner coating. The leak in very small but annoying. My second question is The bike gets going well but when I go to stop, I pull the clutch in and as the bike slows down to a halt it just dies without hiting the kill switch. Does the idle need to be adjusted? My clutch is working great.... if anybody can help me give me a holler....thanx

Filippo, You don't say what sort of kit you have - 2 or 4-stroke but the tank was tightened too much and the leak is from one of the fixing posts under the tank. The solution is to braze the post but that can be dangerous on an empty tank and not many people will agree to do it. If the bike is a cruiser with a curved top tube it is even easier to cause a leak by tightening too hard. I eliminated this problem by using high density foam rubber tape which is sticky on one side and available from rubber supply shops. Run a length of the tape along the channel under the tank during the installation and that will hold the tank firmly without needing to overtighten.
Use the highest density foam rubber tape not the low density and buy it the right width for that channel on the underside of the tank. I ruined 3 tanks before I found this solution. Soldering around the legs never worked for me (see attached picture) but I now have a brazing torch and might risk trying that out on the tanks because they had special paint jobs and I'm keen to keep them.
Lastly, your idle screw needs adjusting to prevent engine stalling.
The HD foam rubber is a really good suggestion because it keeps the tank secure without having to strain the tank legs too tight. Try it yourself on all future builds.

 

[Filippo]

Thank you 4 all the posts. I was thinkin rubber under the tank would keep it in place as well. My engine is 2 stroke. I adjusted the idle screw little by little until it was just too much. I almost went "a#@ over tea kettle" and when I go to stop the bike I pull in the clutch and as I come to a halt the bike dies without the kill switch. So it's not the idle. I've ridden other bikes where at a stop sign or red light they stay running but I dont understand. It dosn't putt around 90 degree turns or nothing just when I come to a halt.

 

[Irish John]

Filippo, the dense rubber that comes in rolls with sticky back is heaps better than using old tyre tubes because it has flex and compression.
Sounds like you have carby problem or air\fuel mix prob, Clean the spark plug & check its colour against a diagnostic plug chart. Clean the carby and check there's no air leaks where carby slides over intake manifold pipe. If there is use elec tape to airtight it. If prob persists post a separate thread under 2-strokes seeking help.
Good luck.