led bulb type?

The Cree Q5 in my L2D Q5 looks like this beamshot from that website linked above...

http://eddys.com/page.cfm?PageID=493&imageid=1955

It's excellent for the money. The transformers keep blowing around here (prolly keep getting wet from all the storms), and my friend's uncle brought out his huge maglite, and my tiny LED flashlight was less than half the price, 3 times wider & more powerful, only runs off of 2-AAs as opposed to 3 or 4 Cs or Ds, and I'm pretty sure these smaller batteries last longer too, due to the efficiency of the Cree bulbs. Good stuff.
 
Here are a couple of response I received from one of the led manufacturers. Evidently I can't use a led with the approximate 6 volt ac current. If anyone knows differently, please let me know. Also if anyone knows a better, brighter bulb they are using other than the KPR112, please let me know. I am interested in the manufacturer, not a member supplier here, thanks in advance.


The power supply needs to be 6v max, with the center bulb contact positive (+) to work correctly. If it goes over 6v you'll fry the LED.

Scott

doc.......@hotmail.com[/email] wrote:

I have a motorized bicycle that is now powering a kpr112 bulb (approximately 6 volts ac) Will the lpr 113 bulb work with that power type (6 volts ac)? Thanks.


Also- only runs on DC power.

doc.....@hotmail.com wrote:

I have a motorized bicycle that is now powering a kpr112 bulb (approximately 6 volts ac) Will the lpr 113 bulb work with that power type (6 volts ac)? Thanks.
 
I do not understand what you are saying here.... The Mag-LEDs and Ever-LEDs are drop-in replacements, they fit right in to any regular miniature-flanged flashlight bulb socket. And the front end of the LEDs is smaller than the globe of the light bulb.

Maybe you were looking at the triple-led bulb for the mini mag-lite? (which is different)
~

I had the same size bulb as the kpr112 which fits my socket and the maglite upgrades were dimensionally the same (2, 3, and 4 cell) AND the bases were bigger than the kpr113 socket size which is the p13.5s I believe. Evidently led's don't work on ac so I'm out of luck.
 
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You would need to rectify the AC on the white wire to convert it to DC (using 4 schotsky diodes, which have a very low forward voltage drop, in a bridge rectifier arrangement.) You'll also filter it with a small capacitor, and regulate it, to drop the output voltage down to no more than 6 volts. However, the difficulty that you would experience is that an uncharged capacitor would act as a 'short' until it charges up.

If you fire up the engine, get it above an idle, and then switch in the AC-DC circuit, you should be able to charge a capacitor without killing the engine. Once it's charged, it no longer acts like a short. Or, you could add series resistor to limit current flow, and a micro-relay, to bypass this resistor when the capacitor voltage is high enough to limit the current flow by itself.

The regulator circuit should also be a switching regulator, which has very high efficiencies when reducing voltage levels. Linear regulators work by wasting the difference between the input voltage and output voltage as heat. The power loss is the difference in voltage, multiplied by the current flow.

If you can find a used mag-light, where the batteries have leaked, you could probably get it for next to nothing. Then, cut it down so that the barrel is about 3 inches long & seal up the barrel. (You could put the ac/dc converter & regulator circuit inside the barrel...) Add the LED bulb, which is requires between 2 and 3 watts, to the head, & you should be good to go.
 
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Wow thanks for the information. The electronic suggestions, etc overwhelm me. Is there anything already built for this? How would I know what to buy or how to hook it up?
 
I think Loquin is pretty much on the money,you need to rectify the white wire output,a switching regulator would be best(less current drain),allthough that is not absolutely necessary.what LED 's do you want to run (current drain)?.Read my thread LED's the low down,for useful background info.Another possibility would be to charge a 6V SLA battery (Sealed Lead Acid),they are not all that expensive and run the lights from it.Then you have some storage too and a constant supply voltage which is what you really need.That looks like a pretty good scheme to me.
 
Can't find that thread you mentioned. I just want to run a led that is the same socket size as a kpr112 (p13.5s base). I do not want a battery, I just want somehow to convert the ac to dc to run the led but I need instructions. Doesn't just a diode change the AC TO DC?
 
tighten the idle screw on the engine will be near the throttle assembly then it won't die
 
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