Lifter Replacement In Pictures!

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by go-rebels, Jan 6, 2009.

  1. go-rebels

    go-rebels Member

    I'll be replacing my stock lifters with new mushroom lifters from Quenton. I've been "taking" a lot from this forum so I thought it would be my time to "give".

    I'll post bunch of good pics of the entire process when I begin.

  2. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    Post #2 in this thread is a very good step by step how too by MotorBikeMike.
    The addition of pictures will always help. Like they say, "One picture is worth a thousand words". Good luck. Can't wait too see the pictures.

  3. go-rebels

    go-rebels Member

    Yes, Post #2 is my "basis", with slight modifications after reading some other contributing posts. I hope to have it up this weekend.
  4. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    This is the kind of thing that makes this site so valuable. Thank you in advance.

  5. go-rebels

    go-rebels Member

    OK, here goes...

    I finished the job in a little more than one hour, including the time to gather all the tools and chase down the ones I didn't have.

    Tools required:

    - 2 x 10mm open end wrenches (yes, two!)
    - 8mm open end wrench (for compression release and holding lifters)
    - 4mm Allen wrench
    - 8mm Allen wrench
    - Modified Screwdriver with end bent to 45-60 degrees
    - Putty Knife
    - Small deadblow hammer (I used a small sand filled hammer)
    - Sandwich Baggie
    - Paper Towels
    - Newspapers

    (1) First, I always remove the battery, in case I make a wrong move and create a short. Use a 10mm wrench.

    (2) Drain the oil. Remove plug using 8mm Allen wrench. Save into an appropriate container and dispose of properly (at a facility that takes used motor oil).

    (3) Here's the right side of my engine before work:
    Stock Motor.jpg

    (4) I have now removed the ten (10) Allen head screws holding the side cover using a 4mm Allen wrench. I used the plastic sand filled mallet and tapped a paint scraper along the opposite sides until it popped loose. My cam stayed inside the engine but yours may come out attached to the case.
    Side Cover Removed.jpg

    (5) It took a little work to get the cam out as the opposite bearing seemed stuck. I used my bent screwdrive and wedged it in the small gap between the cam gear and the crank hub while simultaneously pulling from behind at the bottom of the cam. It took a little wiggling but it finally came out. The lifters then fell slightly and were stopped by the oversize nuts attached to the top of the lifters.
    Cam Removed.jpg

    Here's a pic of the cam. Note the abrasion (galling?) marks on the cam lobe by the factory lifters. It looks worse that it is as I really can't even feel any disturbance to the surface of the cam profile using my finger. But then this engine had only 23 miles on it!

    (6) I turned off the fuel valve and removed the fuel line attached to the valve.

    (7) I unscrewed the top of the carb to free it from the cable and removed the two (2) 10mm nuts.

    (8) I removed the compression release cover by removing the two (2) 8mm hex screws. My bike is so new that I was able to salvage the gasket but I'd plan on having a new one handy. Here's a peak inside the intake. It looks like a straight shot through the carb manifold with little restriction. I don't see anything to open up. Maybe somebody could comment.
    Intake Opening.jpg

    (9) Hold the lifter with a 8mm wrench and break the lock nut using a 10mm wrench. It's a bit tight so don't allow the wrench to slip else you'll bruise a knuckle! I held the top of the hex screw with my finger and loosened the lifter by turning the lifter from the bottom. Then I pulled the lifter out and removed the hex screw with lock nut and set aside. I did this for both lifters.

    (10) I ran the hex screws into the new lifters to make certain that there were no burrs on the threads. Then I put the screws back into into the compression release opening and inserted the new lifters from the bottom, turning the lifters until I had 1/8" gap between the top of the jam nut and bottom of the screw hex head.

    (11) I then "lifted" the lifters using the cantilevered weight of my two 10mm open end wrenches so I could get clearance to push the cam back into the block. Here's the cam inserted with the two wrenches still in place. Be certain to advance the cam timing one tooth too.
    Cam Inserted.jpg
    Cam Timing.jpg

    (12) Now I rotated the rear tire so I was on a low spot on the cam and adjusted the hex screw to get 0.008" gap for the exhaust (toward exhaust pipe side) and 0.006" gap for the intake (toward carb side). I held the bottom of the lifter using a 8mm open end wrench and turned the top of the screw using a 10mm open end wrench. When I got close, I just gently trapped my feeler gage between the lifter and bottom of the valve, then I moved the 10mm open end wrench from the top of the screw to the jam nut. Tighten the jam nut against the top of the lifter.
    Adjusting Gap.jpg

    (13) I then reversed everything and "attempted" to start the bike. Read my thread "Whizzer Won't Start" to follow that adventure!

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 15, 2009
  6. go-rebels

    go-rebels Member

    I looked at my notes again and I see that I switched the gaps in my text, but set them properly per your note.

    But it wouldn't have been the first time...
  7. Kep1a

    Kep1a Guest

    If the valve lash can be corrected to reflect .006 intake and .008 exhaust then this thread needs a sticky :)
  8. go-rebels

    go-rebels Member

    Can the moderator correct it?
  9. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    Done and done.

  10. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member

    Go-Rebels Has Done Us a Great Service!

    I'll be using his welcome text and pictures when I do my "Implant Surgery" on Oscar soon, but I would like to add a couple steps:


    Remove the oil filler plug/dipstick before draining the old oil. It will drain faster.


    Remove the spark plug. It will make the crankshaft's TDC indexing easier by not working against compression when turning the crank gear by hand.

    That's it, except I'll pass on disconnecting the battery!

    Thanks, Go-Rebels!

    Last edited: Jan 11, 2009
  11. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member

    Hey Go-rebels Again:

    I pulled my old lifters tonight and will install the Mushrooms tomorrow.
    (It was a piece of pie!)

    Here's a shot of both pairs on Quenton's Invoice! One of the old ones looks like it was really slapped around by the cam lobe! After only 113 miles, yet!

    Now If I could only borrow another 10mm open-end wrench!


    Attached Files:

  12. KilroyCD

    KilroyCD Active Member

  13. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    I bet you the trashed lifter is the exhaust lifter. That's the one that goes first.
  14. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member

    I Won't Take That Bet, Jim...

    ...because I don't know enough about the subject!

  15. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member

    Hey Shade-Tree (and Professional) Mechanics:

    Got my Mushrooms installed!

    (It would have gone easier if my hands & fingers were smaller!)

    There's some pretty tight quarters to work in to get the bolts threaded into the Lifters! My 10mm, 8mm, and a small crescent wrench did just fine for the adjusting.

    I adjusted the Exhaust so an .008" feeler will slip in, but an .009" will not! I then adjusted the Intake so an .006" feeler will slip in, but an .007" will not!

    Hey...I'm really impressed with that simple Mechanical Engineering solution to blocking open the Exhaust valve...a simple washer with a catch underneath for holding up the Lifter!

    I'm getting to know those Whizzer innards now!

    Last edited: Jan 12, 2009
  16. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    Your not the only one who suffers from sausage fingers. I have them too. So how does it run now?

  17. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member

    Haven't Tried It Yet...maybe Tomorrow

    It was getting late and chilly when I finished up...still have my cold...wife said come inside.

    I just have to bolt on the Carb and I'm ready! Hoping for a warm day tomorrow.

  18. Buzz Bomb

    Buzz Bomb Member

    One more thing....

    I know that some of you are going to call me a "tree hugger", etc., but please edit the instructions from putting the oil in a baggie and discarding it, to put in in a suitable container and take it to a place that recycles used engine oil. Be responsible. It's the right thing to do. :D
  19. KilroyCD

    KilroyCD Active Member

    Done! :cool:
  20. go-rebels

    go-rebels Member

    "Discarding it" is meant to mean "recycle it". I drained my baggie into my OLD OIL plastic recycle jugs that I take to my county every summer.

    Sorry for the confusion.