Live Axle wheel

Discussion in 'Bicycle Repair' started by Randomco, May 28, 2009.

  1. Randomco

    Randomco New Member

    I am building a beach cruiser with a Tecumseh 6.5hp engine. I want to make the rear axle live, and have a 1" axle with a 1/4" keyway. I already have a 10" v-belt pulley with a 1" diameter bore, bearings and bearing mounts, 8" disc brake with 1" dia. bore. I was planning on using the spoked wheel already on the bike, and just remove the interal bearings and slide the 1" axle through the wheel and use 2 wheel hubs to "sandwich" the wheel on both sides to hold it in place. But after removing the interal bearings the wheel bore is tapered down to just under 1", making it impossible to fit the 1" axle through the hub. I tried to use a step-up drill bit to widen the hole, but its hardened steel and just isnt going to work. I was wonder if they sell wheels with a bigger bore or something designed for a 1" live axle? Thanks, any help would be much appreciated.

    -Random
     

  2. Junster

    Junster Member

    The outside of my shimano rear hub is 1.11" in the center (it's a Mt Bike 7spd rear aluminum). So I'm guessing the inside is smaller than 1". Could you have someone turn half your axle down to fit your hub? Then you'd have a step to butt the wheel into. You'd just have to change the bearing on that side to fit or sleeve the bearing. All your other stuff could go on the full sized side. Just a thought.
     
  3. Randomco

    Randomco New Member

    I am not sure I understand what you mean by "turn half your axle down". Do you mean have some put it in a lathe and shave the diameter of the axle smaller to fit in the hub? I will not be putting the bearing back into the wheel hub. I am converting the axle to a "live axle" meaning the wheel will be fixed to the rear axle and the whole axle will rotate, rather than the wheel rotating on the axle via bearing. Hope that makes sense. I searched the threads here on motoredbikes.com and found a thread that recommended a website that had a wheel that is similiar to what I am looking for, but the wheel is a 3/4" bore, rather than a 1" which i need. The link to that site is:

    http://www.smallcarplans.com/Issue 24.pdf

    Since the parts I have are for a 1" axle, I would hate to settle for a 3/4" axie and have to get all new parts.

    Again, I hope I am making sense.
     
  4. Junster

    Junster Member

    Ya I understood what you meant about a live axle. I was talking about using a lathe to turn down the axle diameter but not the whole length of the axle. Just from one end to as far as you want the hub to slide on. Then there is a shoulder in the axle to butt the wheel against so you only need a collar on one side. You still have one end the full 1" and keyway for your drive parts and you only need one new bearing for the smaller side.
     
  5. Junster

    Junster Member

    Lok-tite also makes a product you can use to lock/glue the hub on the axle once you have it where you want it if it's a good fit. They make it for shafts in paper mills etc. Just make sure the wheel is where you want it if you use it. It's very strong and you won't be moving it again unless you apply alot of heat.
     
  6. Randomco

    Randomco New Member

    I understand what you mean. I would probably have to lathe a section of the axle down to 3/4" in order to find a bearing to fit on that side, since just shaving off a little will be difficult to find a properly fitting bearing. Anyways, thanks a lot for the suggestion, its definitely something I will keep in mind.
     
  7. SimpleSimon

    SimpleSimon Active Member

  8. Randomco

    Randomco New Member

    I would like to have some adjustment in the position of the wheel, the above suggestion seems a bit permanent.
     
  9. ibdennyak

    ibdennyak Guest

    Ha, that solves one of my problems. Thanks SS

    Denny
     
  10. Junster

    Junster Member

    If you did turn one side down to 3/4" then you could use the wheel in that link you posted.
     
  11. SimpleSimon

    SimpleSimon Active Member

    Random, as pictured in that instructional guide, the hubs are permanently werlded to the axle, yes.

    They needn't be. Simply make the flanges and weld them on an appropriate sized piece of good steel tubing to fit over your axle. If you use heavy wall tubing, you could matching key the axle and the inside of the hub center tube, which would allow limited side to side adjustment. Alternatively, you could key slot the axle and leave appropriate tabs on the central hole you create in the hub flange.

    Be creative, in other words, Myself, I'd make 3 identical shallow key slots in the axle 120 degrees apart, and create three locking tabs to fit in each hub flange disc. Do that, and the wheel is positively locked to co-rotate with the axle while leaving you side to side adjustment.

    As pictured below.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 30, 2009
  12. s_beaudry

    s_beaudry Member

    My question is...

    Where is the engine going to be in this setup?
     
  13. Randomco

    Randomco New Member

    Thanks for the help SSimon, I'll have to brainstorm about it. The motor is mounted already, it was a pain to get it to fit, but we managed it, we had to cut the seat post out and somehow got it to fit. Ill post pictures when its finished.
     
  14. s_beaudry

    s_beaudry Member

    Randomco,

    I would be very interested to see how the motor is mounnted, along with lots and lots of other users here!

    Please be sure to post pictures when you can, there have been more then a few who have thought of this setup and not been able to do it.

    Regards,

    Steve
     
  15. Randomco

    Randomco New Member

    I must mention that mounting this motor rendered pedaling useless, so I will have to mount the pedals possibly further forward, or make a wider crank.
     
  16. s_beaudry

    s_beaudry Member

    Can you tease us with a quick picture of the build so far?

    I am very interested in how that engine is mounted...

    Steve
     
  17. Randomco

    Randomco New Member

    I will snap a few pictures when I get off work later today, it is still very early in the build, and the motor mounts are just tacked in now, but you can get the idea.
     
  18. Randomco

    Randomco New Member

    Here a few photos of the progress, the engine mount is not complete by any means, just one tack weld to hold it in place, but you get the idea.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. s_beaudry

    s_beaudry Member

    Very nice work so far on fitting the engine in and the initial mock up you have...

    Any ideas on what you are going to do yet for a back wheel and a live axle?
     
  20. Randomco

    Randomco New Member

    I plan on cutting off the stock (for lack of the correct terminology) slotted rear wheel axle mount, and then weld a plate to mount the bearing flanges. I will have an axle that is approx. 8" across. The wheel will be in the middle of the rear "forks" as normal. If looking at the rear of the bike, I will have a 10" v-belt pulley on the left, outside of the rear forks, on the live axle. On the right of the rear forks will be an 8" go kart disc brake with the caliper mounted to the forks. I will most likely weld a steel plate to the rear forks with slotted holes that match the bearing flange bolt pattern, in order to slide the entire rear axle assembly back to tighten the belt from the rear pulley to the centrifugal clutch on the motor.
     
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