lotsa_mpg's motorized bike

Here's a pic of my Dax 70 cc Vagabond. Note the dual stands...I needed to add a middle one after installing mirrors, headlight, speedo, etc to the bars. The extra weight on the front of the bike made it want to fall over with just the factory rear stand. I've got close to 400 miles on this rig now and it's been reliable so far. Not even a leaking gasket and I haven't laid a wrench to any bolt since I put it together. I know I shouldn't be saying that cause it'll likely end up breaking tomorrow.

Pete

 

[lotsa_mpg]

Here's a couple shots of the bracket from a different angle so you can get a better peek at it. I just used a bicycle brake cable as a choke cable. I drilled a small hole thru the top side of the choke lever arm, ran the cable thru, then secured it with a brass cable furule located under the choke arm. So far, the mounting bolt for my bracket hasn't loosened....but now that you mention it, I'll keep an eye on it.

Pete

 

[JosephGarcia]

Does the lever you attached to it let it go up and down, or does it only pull the lever up, so you have to push it down with your hand again.

 

[lotsa_mpg]

I loosened the choke butterfly on the carb so that it moves easily up and down allowing the spring to return it to the choke off position when the lever is moved to the off position. The derailer lever I used to activate it has a tensioning adjuster which can be tightened to keep the lever set in whatever position it is adjusted to...or it can be backed off to allow the lever to return to the off position when ever you release the lever. If you set it that way, the return spring on the bottom end of the cable will automatically pull the choke to the open (choke off) position. I do prefer to have the tensioner on the lever set so that it holds it's position when I take my hand away from it. Then, I just adjust it as it needs to be. My motor is fairly cold blooded and seems to need a fair bit of choke upon starting and during warm up, so this works best in my case. However, a buddy of mine has a PowerKing engine that seems to need very little choke and warms up quite a bit faster than my Dax engine (maybe it's because of the smaller cooling fins...I dunno). If I was installing a remote choke on his, I think I'd just set it to automatically return as soon as the lever is released.

Pete

 

[srdavo]

Re: choke mount

View attachment 49996

Sure thing. Here's a pic of the choke cable bracket. I've been meaning to to remove it and give it a coat of paint, but I haven't got around to it yet.

Pete

very cool idea!!

 

[go you good thing]

Excellent pics.

Is the bracket made of brass?

What type of weld is it?

 

[jol]

Excellent pics.

Is the bracket made of brass?

What type of weld is it?

I'm guessing rusty ol' iron and mig

 

[lotsa_mpg]

The bracket is just mild steel. I started with 1/16" x 3/4" flat iron and ended up trimming the width down to about 5/8" to shave some weight and look less obtrusive. I just used a small 110 volt mig to weld it. I had a length of 7/16" solid rod which I cut to a little over 5/8" long. I drilled a small diameter hole all the way through it...and then, then ran a larger diameter bit through the same hole, but only about 3/8" deep. This allows the metal end on the choke cable (actually a rear brake cable) to recess into the large hole and allows the inner cable to pass right through the rod. I then migged this piece onto my bracket.

Pete

 

[go you good thing]

Thanks for the detail.

I don't have a welder so while reading your last post I am thinking how to do this without using a weld.

The first thing that popped into my head was maybe using part of a rear brake caliper and bending it to a similar shape.

That way I could just insert the cable into the existing mount that they have and put the spring on the other side.

mmmmmm.

I have seen some other posts here but I have searched on 'cable choke' but could not find anything.

Hey augidog if you are there I know you could find the links!

Are we officially out of topic now?

 

[iRide Customs]

Sweet little mod ya got there...I as a matter of fact I was just tossing around ideas in my head for something just this morning.

Dan

 

[JosephGarcia]

I loosened the choke butterfly on the carb so that it moves easily up and down allowing the spring to return it to the choke off position when the lever is moved to the off position. The derailer lever I used to activate it has a tensioning adjuster which can be tightened to keep the lever set in whatever position it is adjusted to...or it can be backed off to allow the lever to return to the off position when ever you release the lever. If you set it that way, the return spring on the bottom end of the cable will automatically pull the choke to the open (choke off) position. I do prefer to have the tensioner on the lever set so that it holds it's position when I take my hand away from it. Then, I just adjust it as it needs to be. My motor is fairly cold blooded and seems to need a fair bit of choke upon starting and during warm up, so this works best in my case. However, a buddy of mine has a PowerKing engine that seems to need very little choke and warms up quite a bit faster than my Dax engine (maybe it's because of the smaller cooling fins...I dunno). If I was installing a remote choke on his, I think I'd just set it to automatically return as soon as the lever is released.

Pete

A little after I posted that comment, I barely saw the spring to push it down. I missed that before and wondered how it moved.