make your own torque pipe

  • Thread starter Deleted member 12676
  • Start date
Looks good! At least you are willing to give it a try. I am just too intimidated and have plenty of other "projects" to complete.

I've been reading an old sheet metal text book to help with a future project. The book recommends not hitting directly on top of the sheet metal, but slightly off the side to form your curves when bending sheet metal around a tube or pipe. Looks like you did good.

Keep up the good work and keep us posted,

Chris
AKA: BigBlue
 
Thanks so much for making a photo tutorial. I enjoyed watching your project come together.

From my perspective, the outside finish isn't that important because all the magic is happening on the inside of the pipe. Covering it with heat wrap is a logical way of improving the physical appearance without having to resort to hours of grinding and polishing the expansion chamber.

Good to see that you went with a belly mounted stinger; reducing noise and reducing the overall length of the pipe.

Jaguar is the best person to talk to with regards to header length.
 
The bike is now running but just with a bir of silicone hose from my car as the header extension as i havnt gotten around to getting some pipe to weld in yet.

2013-01-12154550.jpg


The low down torque is great especially with the shift kit but because i have the shift kit id like some of the power up a bit higher than you would on a single speed, would a shorter header move the powerband up a bit?

any idea what length i should use for decent top end power but not losing too much low down torque?
 
My bike revs to 8300 rpm. On it the header ends even before the crank (pedal) center.
Just keep shortening yours till the rpm peak is as high as you want it to be.
The header adjusts the peak rpm. The shape of the pipe determines the powerband.
 
my god man you have a shift kit and an expansion chamber but you still haven't replaced one of the worse parts on the bike?: the carburetor.
 
Thanks for the tips Jaguar

haha yeah the shift kit i bought because i didnt have a chain or rear sprocket, the expansion chamber i made because the normal exhaust wouldnt fit on my frame, the carby still works so i havnt replaced it yet :p

its on the to do list though as well as one of your ignition modules, which carb do you suggest?
 
I used to mostly recommend the Dellorto but for some reason they are designed to run too lean at idle. If you increase the main jet that solves the problem but then it runs too rich at top speed. Only solution is drilling a small hole in the lower part of the fuel column as I explain on my site. I'm wishing I had a Mikuni now which offers complete jetting capability.
 
I'm curious, Instead of running the belly stinger along the bottom of the pipe & marring the looks, why not run a 1/2" tube extending internally from the end of the baffle to halfway inside? Admittedly it would intrude into the resonance chamber, affecting the internal displacement, but that can be calculated and the cone dimensions adjusted accordingly to compensate. That way you could take advantage of the low pressure resonance wave for exhaust gas evacuation and still retain the classic looks of a traditional rear stinger expansion pipe. Now I can't weld for squat or I'd try this. I'm gonna have to buy one from a commercial distributor and have a muffler shop weld it up for me once I've determined the right length by using heater hose & hose clamps for testing.
 
You mean like this? I just had one made and am testing it. If it is quieter then that would be the only advantage over making the stinger snake along the outside of the baffle. I have a db meter and will compare the two designs sound level.
InternalStinger.jpg
 
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