making throttle cable
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bluegoatwoods
Well-Known Member
Making one from scratch would be pretty difficult because of the "lug" at the end that attaches to the throttle barrel. (are we talking about a happy time motor? If not, then things could be different)
Has yours broken? You'd probably be best off just ordering a new one from one of the vendors.
Has yours broken? You'd probably be best off just ordering a new one from one of the vendors.
F
fetor56
Guest
Throttle cables arn't difficult & since their under little pressure even electrical solder can be used...silver solder preferably,& essentially for brake cables.
Lugs can either be desoldered & reused,or made using about 5 turns of the appropriate guage wire wrapped around the cable & then soldered.
Fiddley job but saves $ & u get something custom lengthed.
Lugs can either be desoldered & reused,or made using about 5 turns of the appropriate guage wire wrapped around the cable & then soldered.
Fiddley job but saves $ & u get something custom lengthed.
Happy Valley
Active Member
This contains the basic idea, thought the visuals might help.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0y27QZOCl50
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0y27QZOCl50
buzbikebklyn1
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I've gone at it from the handle bar/throttle end.
There are several ways of doing this.
The first is the built up silver solder onto a CLEANED and fluxed stainless steel cable end, this is much easier than you might think. Regular solder will not stick to a stainless cable.
I start with a hunk of ceramic based modeling clay-
(plastic based clay wont work)
ALWAYS make sure that the cable housing and adjusters are installed on your new cable or your gonna feel REALLY STUPID when you cant put the cable you just made together (trust me on this one)
#1- Using two small slabs of clay, press the barrel cable end that is to be reproduced into one half of the clay and lay the other slab of clay over it GENTLY, you are trying to create a part able mold here, not trying to get the clay to stick together, now extend the opposite side of the impression a bit to use as a port to fill the mold with the molten solder.
(this might take several trys to get just right, but its not that difficult).
#2- Turn your new mold upright in a vise or wire it together and stand it up.
#3- Using a metal bottle cap as a melting pot, grab it with a pair of vise grips to melt the solder in, no need to melt to much solder, this stuffs a little expensive.
#4- Snip the end of the cable to the correct length and make sure its clean of all oil or grease, then dip it into some good quality soldering flux paste or liquid flux-
(I've had great success using my wife's liquid flux that she uses to make stained glass with, its very pure)
Now, CAREFULLY insert the end of the cable into your mold and make sure it goes slightly past the new barrel, its ok if the new barrel is a little large, you can file it down a bit.
Pour the melted solder into the mold and let it cool fully.
(this is the most difficult part because you want to see if it worked but be patient).
#5- once it has cooled, remove it from the mold and give it a good tug to make sure it stuck, grind and file off all the casting flash and V'iola! new cable end.
Method #2- From the carb end.
Measure your cable very carefully, theres nothing more annoying than messing this step up (trust me on this one)
Make sure you give yourself a little extra slack, but not to much to be taken up by the cable adjuster.
This method is very easy but takes a little finesse.
#1- Snip clean and flux the end of the cable and place it in a vise sticking up... its ok if its a little long.
#2- I use some very thin brass tubing, like the ink tube you might find in a pen, its got to be brass or stainless steel. If you use the pen tube trick make sure its clean and free of any ink.
Cut the length of tube and slide it over the exposed end of the cable.
#3- Using a good hot torch, heat the end of the cable and hold the solder directly over the opening, the heat, gravity and flux will draw the solder into the tube bonding it to the cable end.
#4- Cut and file to the desired length.
I developed these methods because I cant stand incorrectly fitted or over long cables.
I hope this helps.
BBB
There are several ways of doing this.
The first is the built up silver solder onto a CLEANED and fluxed stainless steel cable end, this is much easier than you might think. Regular solder will not stick to a stainless cable.
I start with a hunk of ceramic based modeling clay-
(plastic based clay wont work)
ALWAYS make sure that the cable housing and adjusters are installed on your new cable or your gonna feel REALLY STUPID when you cant put the cable you just made together (trust me on this one)
#1- Using two small slabs of clay, press the barrel cable end that is to be reproduced into one half of the clay and lay the other slab of clay over it GENTLY, you are trying to create a part able mold here, not trying to get the clay to stick together, now extend the opposite side of the impression a bit to use as a port to fill the mold with the molten solder.
(this might take several trys to get just right, but its not that difficult).
#2- Turn your new mold upright in a vise or wire it together and stand it up.
#3- Using a metal bottle cap as a melting pot, grab it with a pair of vise grips to melt the solder in, no need to melt to much solder, this stuffs a little expensive.
#4- Snip the end of the cable to the correct length and make sure its clean of all oil or grease, then dip it into some good quality soldering flux paste or liquid flux-
(I've had great success using my wife's liquid flux that she uses to make stained glass with, its very pure)
Now, CAREFULLY insert the end of the cable into your mold and make sure it goes slightly past the new barrel, its ok if the new barrel is a little large, you can file it down a bit.
Pour the melted solder into the mold and let it cool fully.
(this is the most difficult part because you want to see if it worked but be patient).
#5- once it has cooled, remove it from the mold and give it a good tug to make sure it stuck, grind and file off all the casting flash and V'iola! new cable end.
Method #2- From the carb end.
Measure your cable very carefully, theres nothing more annoying than messing this step up (trust me on this one)
Make sure you give yourself a little extra slack, but not to much to be taken up by the cable adjuster.
This method is very easy but takes a little finesse.
#1- Snip clean and flux the end of the cable and place it in a vise sticking up... its ok if its a little long.
#2- I use some very thin brass tubing, like the ink tube you might find in a pen, its got to be brass or stainless steel. If you use the pen tube trick make sure its clean and free of any ink.
Cut the length of tube and slide it over the exposed end of the cable.
#3- Using a good hot torch, heat the end of the cable and hold the solder directly over the opening, the heat, gravity and flux will draw the solder into the tube bonding it to the cable end.
#4- Cut and file to the desired length.
I developed these methods because I cant stand incorrectly fitted or over long cables.
I hope this helps.
BBB
happycheapskate
Active Member
You can buy those little brass cable ends like what come with the happy times for the clutch cable, for about $2 at motor bicycle online stores. That should do it if you want to use a v-brake lever. Buy a gear-shift cable and use the SRAM end for the carb barrel. You might have to file or sand it a little. That worked for me. (drill a hole on the v-brake lever so the cable can go all the way through where the V-brake cable end was, and use the happy time brass stop with screw on there. )
Someone has suggested using gear cables to replace the cable for twist throttles, by using the matching end in the handle, and soldering on an electrical crimp-style cable end with the circle-shaped lug on the other (red plastic sleeve should be the right size), then clipping off the lug and using it in the carb slide barrel. (other types of connectors would work too, just cut off the lug)
I plan to cut a short piece of bic ink pen tube (the white plastic piece. I use these for lots of cool things, like Presta valves going into Shraeder rims), drill a hole through both sides for the cable, move it to length, pick the strands apart a little with a metal pick, place it over a nickle and fill with solder to make a cable end similar to v-brake cable end.
Someone has suggested using gear cables to replace the cable for twist throttles, by using the matching end in the handle, and soldering on an electrical crimp-style cable end with the circle-shaped lug on the other (red plastic sleeve should be the right size), then clipping off the lug and using it in the carb slide barrel. (other types of connectors would work too, just cut off the lug)
I plan to cut a short piece of bic ink pen tube (the white plastic piece. I use these for lots of cool things, like Presta valves going into Shraeder rims), drill a hole through both sides for the cable, move it to length, pick the strands apart a little with a metal pick, place it over a nickle and fill with solder to make a cable end similar to v-brake cable end.
Last edited:
V 35
Member
I'm running a Domino throttle, if your lucky, a Shifter Cable [ sheathed ] fits perfectly,
the pill shaped end fits the slider, the barrel shaped end fits the throttle cam. If not,
Domino includes an adjustable stop, allowing you to cut the cable at the barrel end,
and use the supplied stop.
Some throttles are proprietary Bike Berry has a metal housing, only the Bike Berry cable threads in. I've had poor luck with Dirt Bike Throttles, Dirt Bike Carbs have a long throw MB carbs have short slides, and require a much shorter throw. Pit Bike Throttles look tempting, , some seem identical to one that comes with Conversion Kit, which leaves something to be desired, the Cheesy Plastic Feel, and short useful life, of the stock throttle led me to the Domino, which has a very smooth feel, from idle to WOT, which is reached at 3/4 turn. Time will tell, on durability, probably already outlasted a Kit Throttle.
the pill shaped end fits the slider, the barrel shaped end fits the throttle cam. If not,
Domino includes an adjustable stop, allowing you to cut the cable at the barrel end,
and use the supplied stop.
Some throttles are proprietary Bike Berry has a metal housing, only the Bike Berry cable threads in. I've had poor luck with Dirt Bike Throttles, Dirt Bike Carbs have a long throw MB carbs have short slides, and require a much shorter throw. Pit Bike Throttles look tempting, , some seem identical to one that comes with Conversion Kit, which leaves something to be desired, the Cheesy Plastic Feel, and short useful life, of the stock throttle led me to the Domino, which has a very smooth feel, from idle to WOT, which is reached at 3/4 turn. Time will tell, on durability, probably already outlasted a Kit Throttle.
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happycheapskate
Active Member
Thanks for the info. The grubee kit throttle I have seems fine after a lot of use. I replaced the plastic locator pin with a sawed off deck screw and greased the surface where the grip handle turns on the throttle base, when I first built it. I've heard that the plastic pin can brake and the grip can pull right off the bar.
The one you mention looks like it's about $50. https://www.denniskirk.com/1902990.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse
The one you mention looks like it's about $50. https://www.denniskirk.com/1902990.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse
happycheapskate
Active Member
I made one for my friction drive bike using a gearshift cable cut to just over the length I wanted, installed in the housing, and then did something like buzzbikebrooklyn described. I used a red electrical crimp connector. I threw away the plastic, then I held the ring with a pliers, soldered it in place, and clipped the ring off.
If you use one for on a brake cable for the clutch cable on a happytime, leave the ring on there to guard against it poking you in the leg. You might want to use the better solder for that, since the pull is hard, like a brake cable.
http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/490164077/Automotive_Electrical_Crimp_Connector.jpg
If you use one for on a brake cable for the clutch cable on a happytime, leave the ring on there to guard against it poking you in the leg. You might want to use the better solder for that, since the pull is hard, like a brake cable.
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