Master link derailing chain?

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by MarkM, Jul 4, 2008.

  1. MarkM

    MarkM New Member

    Just finished my very first build and I can't keep my chain on the sprocket long enough to try and fire up my engine. It keeps coming off the chain wheel. I start off well with the correct tension. I pedal my bike, dump the clutch and the chain comes off the wheel and the chain tensioner gets twisted down 180 degrees. Then I have to dig the chain out from between the spokes and the chain wheel. I've done this three times and can't figure out how to keep the chain on trac. :confused:

    I notice that the master link makes a noise or bumps as it goes through the tensioner and on to the chain wheel and counter sprocket. Could the master link be a problem? Appreciate any tips, thanks, Mark M :cool:

    Chain: #415
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2008

  2. Skyliner70cc

    Skyliner70cc Active Member

    Is your rear sprocket chromed? If so, I'd grind the chrome off the sprockets. Do this for most of my rides to prevent similar issues.

    Also, check to ensure master link is lubed and not binding from being dry.
  3. MarkM

    MarkM New Member

    Yes, the chain wheel is chrome. I'll take your advise and give it a try. I'm also thinking about removing the master link all together.

    Happy 4th of July to all! Mark M :smile:
  4. fatboy67

    fatboy67 Member

    So you say that the master link bumps when going over the chain tensioner wheel. So you must be able to have the chain rotating when the clutch is disengaged correct? My old 415 chain master link use to bump as well this was no prob. The only reason I changed chains was because the 415 stretches. Are you sure nothing is locked in the motor. I had a chrome rear sprocket, it was never a prob. Please for future reference let us know if grinding the chrome off worked.
  5. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

  6. fatboy67

    fatboy67 Member

    Yes now that you say that. Thats more what it sounds like. There was some one last week who had their rear sproket around the wrong way. They had similar probs.
  7. Mountainman

    Mountainman Active Member

    As mentioned above -- I think the way to go would be to get a chain tool and remove the master link totally -- might have to add more chain ? -- we don't want these kinds of things happening -- at high speed or any speed -- BUMMER ! Happy Riding from - Mountainman
  8. bluegoatwoods

    bluegoatwoods Well-Known Member

    Or you could replace that #415 chain with #41 and be done with it.

    It's inexpensive.
  9. MarkM

    MarkM New Member

    First I'm going to buy a chain tool to replace the master link with with one of the links I took off. I'll give that a try. Yes there may be an alighnment problem, could be off by an 1/8 of an inch or less.

    The smaller chain Idea sounds real good to me. I'm in Fontana, CA. Where can I pick up a #410 chain? Thanks guys for your posts. Your helping me through this. Mark M :grin:
  10. kaploink

    kaploink Member

    I ended replacing my masterlink with a normal link. My chain was not derailing, but the pop from the masterlink on the idler drove me up the wall.
  11. BSA

    BSA Guest

    If your bike has veritcal dropouts just tension the chain using them. I'd ditch that chain tensioner.

  12. MasterLink

    MasterLink Member

    the masterlink is the best link in the bunch lol