Master Link In Ne-5 Chain?

Hal the Elder

Member
Local time
1:29 AM
Joined
Oct 20, 2008
Messages
638
While I'm doing the clutch conversion and installing a coaster brake wheel, I want to clean my chain by removing it and soaking and brushing it in a pan of Mineral Spirits, but I can't locate the Master Link!

HAL
 
HEY QUENTON:

In addition to the master link question, the new Worksman wheel has a 22-tooth sprocket, compared to the stock 20-tooth.

This is fine, because I'll have 10 percent more pedaling torque for engine starting and pedal assist from a stop, but this also means that I'll either have to ad another link or move the wheel forward, which would loosen the drive belt!

What's the best thing to do in this case?

Thanks...
HAL
 
Hi Hal,

It will end up being a "balancing act". You need to add to your chain, but be sure to get a 1/2 link. Also note the wheel can only be moved so far back and it will rub the nuts inside the fender where the braces are attached.

Have fun,
 
Hi Hal
I added a half link to my chain when I installed my Worksman wheel. I had to buy a master link too because there was no master link on my chain. I used my dremel to grind open the chain. One master and one half link did the trick for me. I got the parts at a local hardware store. It was listed as #43 chain.

Jimn
 
Here's how I determined the chain length differential:

The circumference of the 22-tooth Worksman sprocket is 11-3/4 inches.

The "half-circumference", (the portion the chain runs over), is 5-7/8 inches.

The circumference of the 20-tooth NE5 sprocket is 10-1/2 inches.

The half-circumference is 5-1/4 inches.

The difference is 5/8 inch, the amount of extra chain length required FOR KEEPING THE WHEEL AXLE IN THE SAME POSITION, so the drive belt will have the same tension as before.

The chain links are spaced 1/2 inch, so adding one link will make the chain 1/8 inch too short, and adding one and a half links will make the chain 1/8" too long.

With 1-1/2 extra links and the axle in the same position as with the stock wheel, there will be a slight sag in the chain.

What...Me Worry?

HAL
 
I removed a link without grinding.

I simply used a 1/8" machinist's punch and tapped the pins out with a hammer. Then I bought a Master Link (called a "connecting link"), and a Half-Link (called an "offset link") for re-installing the chain over the slightly larger wheel sprocket.

HAL
 
Last edited:
Back
Top