Motor mounts

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Neufcruz, Oct 28, 2015.

  1. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    I just received my GT6 motor from gasbikes. The frame is a Skyhawk tank in frame. The front engine mount that Is welded onto the frame has bolt holes that are wider than the mount holes on the engine. I don't seem to see any adapter besides the regular universal frame mount that wraps the tube. I was assuming that the front of engine would just line up. Any advice before I start drilling if hacking off stuff?

  2. 2old2learn

    2old2learn Member

    Perhaps washers to fill the gap or you can purchase spacer tubes and use those in place of washers.
  3. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    It's the mount holes on engine which don't align with the welded on motor mount on the frame. The frame mount holes are spaced further apart. Need to figure out how to download pictures.
  4. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

    if you have the flat plate that goes with the u-bolt, it may fit when you bolt it to the motor - you may need to hacksaw off that thickness from the rear mounting block tho.

    motors come with either wide or narrow front mounts, don't know if frames do too
  5. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    That would make sense. The motor must be the narrow and the frame is the wide.
    Frame is 2"3/8 center to center of holes in welded on motor mount plate.
    Engine is 1"5/8 center to center of stud bolts coming off engine.
    I can try and re drill hey holes inside of those but is right on the edge of existing holes. Does it need to be centered or can I go off center left or right and use 1 hole and drill another or cut and weld new plate with correct spacing? Am I the only one who has run into this issue? Would think there is a easier, already thought of solution for this.
    Plus some of my parts were not shipped!
    Let the fun begin.... :)
  6. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

    oops - posted in wrong thread & can't seem to delete this
  7. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    Lol. I saw the reply on my phone and wondered what that was about.

  8. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    Actually nothing you got from gasbike is Grubee or Skyhawk anything.
    It's all knock-off's using the Grubee/Skyhawk names.
    It's nothing like the real things.
    gasbike hasn't been able to buy from Grubee for years since all this knockoff stuff started.

    Anyway, back to your problem...

    You probably have an 'alternate' front mount plate in your parts with the right size engine holes.
    Clamp it to the welded pedestal top and use it for a template to drill 2 new holes.

    It 's ok if the other holes end up being slots, the piece in the middle will keep your engine from moving.
  9. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    Thanks and funny, this was exactly what a friend and I decided to do. Wont be able to move in either direction anyways plus no new welding. The piece is aluminum so should be easy to drill. Building this thing in my condo so no real room or tools. What was I thinking? Lol

    I know the frame is not a real skyhawk. I didn't get it from gas bike but a local motorized bike shop down here in Miami. I hope this isn't the 1st of many issues.
    Gasbike also forgot my reed I ordered.

    Thanks fpr reinforcing my idea! :)
  10. Timbone

    Timbone Active Member

    I have been riding on one of these aluminum Skyhawk frames for well over a year now. Here's my advice:

    That welded engine mount plate WILL fail. And it won't take a great deal of riding to break the weld. Here's one way to adapt:

    Make a 2 piece motor mount out of some form of thick angle pieces. Use the first "L" to lock onto the downtube with a 1 1/2" muffler bracket (3/8" bolts!). Link the other angle piece (an inverted "L" and either weld them or bolt them together with 4 1/2" bolts. The trick would be to overlap the back piece directly on top of the frame provided motor mount.

    Use an adapter to make the final connection from the front of the motor to the inverted "L" of the back of the motor mount. A thick piece of metal ties the engine to the motormount using at least 1/4"-20 Grade 8 bolts. 5/16 would be better, though.

    Such a set up would be bomb proof! The trick would be trimming the joining the edges of the angle pieces to get perfect length to fit the frame. Off the top of my head, it should be in the 1 3/8" range.

    The weak point of my frame was on the downtube just below the fuel tank. I'd suggest getting some kind of strong epoxy material and beefing that up as much as possible before you start running on the frame.
  11. butre

    butre Well-Known Member

    I find that building the area around the weld up with fiberglass makes the pedestal mount very strong and durable
  12. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    I know the feeling of a cramped work space.
    My home shop burned up a few years back and I had to work from a 10x10 bedroom for ~3 weeks, what a pain.

    It may be real, I can't recall the vendor but there is one Skyhawk distributor in Florida so you may have got the real thing.

    You should be fine with just new front mount holes, just make sure that whatever you do in the front, the back mount should be a perfect flush 90 to the seat post, that is where the power is transferred.

    Good luck with it.
  13. dbledsoe

    dbledsoe New Member

    That is odd. I have three GT2-A frames from and all three have the 1 5/8" spaced holes in the frame engine mount plate. If you haven't painted your frame yet maybe you could return it and request the correct frame?
  14. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    Unfortunately I don't have even a real work space anymore. Plus my wife has an auto immune disease and she can not take any sort of smells, chemicals, gas odors so once I get to that point I might have to move down to even a more cramped area. Too late now. I started this monster and gonna finish no matter what! Lol
  15. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    I bought the frame already painted white and to KC, this place bought a containers worth of these frames so I highly doubt I have a real one at a cost of $120.00 painted. Lol
    I'm just hoping now that drilling a few holes is the worst of the issues I'm to encounter on this build.
  16. dbledsoe

    dbledsoe New Member

    That sure sounds like a genuine Grubee frame. Check the Grubee/China Gas web site: & FRAMES.htm
  17. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    It sure could be REAL, Skyhawk sold Super Rat engines for awhile that had a wider from engine mount.

    Lack of rear V-brake studs is a good indicator but not perfect, the imitation market grows every year.

    I'm sure you will be just fine with a couple new mount holes.
    Using a different front mount is really no big deal, if you have the tools anyway.

    I am eagerly awaiting Birddogs big shipment of the new GT2's with support for 3" tires and a disc brake.

    In frame tanks are cool, better than the tear drop stock tanks, but not REALLY worth it unless you are after a super cool looking ride everywhere on the bike ya know?

    A tear drop tank can look cool and save ya a hundred.

    Good luck with your build and I look forward to seeing what you do.
  18. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    Thanks KC.
    Have to say I have on many occasions and see many more in the not so distant future visiting your build site and seeing your work.very well done!
    I had a very thought out (well, I thought I did) plan/design right up until I sat on it. Ok,
    fatter seat with granny springs, ditch the flat bars that make it look so slick.
    Not buying anything yet until I get those rims on it. Then I can truly get a feel for its stance.
    Looking forward to showing off once complete.

  19. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    Thanks for the Kudo's and I look forward to seeing it.