Motorkote is good stuff

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by george_n_texas, Dec 2, 2009.

  1. Sorry for the long post...

    I put this stuff in a Peterbuilt with a cat 475 hp diesel engine...made the pyrometer (Turbo temp guage) go way down. I put some in a '90 chevy van and heard the engine get quieter as I poured it in. I also put some in a 2005 650 Suzuki Boulevard S40 which is 1 cylinder scream take-off but low high end very high revving engine. This bike went from not being able to see what was behind you in the mirror to instantly being able to discern if a cop was behind you. I guarantee you if this stuff was not great you would see bad reviews as it goes for $30 a quart. They reccomend in addition to your oil mix adding 2 oz per gallon. This stuff DOES NOT mix with oil or fuel it bonds to metal. I would not use it more than 1 tank at a time as it lasts 4 oil changes in a car! I would also put it on my chain, gears and would only take a few drops to do the whole bike. I just got mine in today and my engine no longer sounds like a weed eater sounds more like a scooter. I have a 48cc grubee-2 smoker.

    I wouldn't recommend this stuff in your engine till it's been broke in.

    This is from their add:
    Product Features

    * MOTORKOTE is a pure synthetic engine additive concentrate containing no solids, moly, teflon, or graphite
    * MK is formulated for heavy-duty use in gas or diesel hard working engines and other mechanical devices
    * It molecularly coats metal surfaces with added lubrication protection reducing friction, heat and wear on critical moving parts

    This stuff is not to replace the oil you mix with the fuel it coats and bonds to the metal...when you add this stuff to a car engine the oil level does not go up after running the prevents dry starts it lasts thru 2 oil changes in a big truck (that's minimum 30,000 miles folks)
    I will not be adding any more of this stuff to my engine for quite some time I am sure. I might have spent $5 to treat the whole bike, engine, bearings, cables and chains.

    Heres some questions and answers from their web expensive as this stuff is you would see negative reports on it if you googled it I haven't seen one yet.

    Q: How does MOTORKOTE Hyper Lubricant work?
    A: MOTORKOTE bonds to metal, creating a HYPER LUBRICATING metal-to-metal contact. This reduces friction, heat and engine wear.

    * Horsepower increases of 10% are common within 1 month of use.
    * Gas mileage may increase 5-15% during this same period.
    * Damage from cold starts is significantly reduced.

    Q: Why doesn't MOTORKOTE Hyper Lubricant void my warranty like some oil additives?
    A: Unlike Lucas Oil, Prolong, and Slick 50, MOTORKOTE doesn't mix with oil. This means that oil viscosity, antifoaming, and other oil properties are not affected. MOTORKOTE is Safe and Effective.
    Q: How do I use MOTORKOTE Hyper Lubricant?
    A: MOTORKOTE should be used in all gasoline and diesel engines. Pour using the diagram below.
    Engine The Pour When
    4 cylinder 8 ounces Every 4th Oil change
    6 cylinder 12 ounces Every 4th Oil change
    8 cylinder and up 16 ounces Every 4th Oil change
    Q: When can I use MOTORKOTE Hyper Lubricant?
    A: The best time to use MOTORKOTE is with your next oil change, but you can add anytime.
    Q: Why is MOTORKOTE Hyper Lubricant more expensive than some other additives?
    A: Mostly because it's better. It also doesn't need to be added as often.

    How Much Do I Use

    Typical Hyper Lubricant/Engine Treatment Applications

    2 Ounces per quart of oil in the crankcase
    Typical big rigs add 88 ounces. Add 3 ounces per quart of oil in heavy duty or racing applications.
    1 ounce per quart of fluid in automatic or manual transmissions.
    1 Ounce per quart of gear lube.
    Power Steering
    1 Ounce per quart of fluid.
    Transfer Case
    2 to 4 Ounces per vehicle.
    Drive Shafts
    1 Ounce for chains, apply lightly or soak.
    1 ounce per tube (Typical tube is 14oz.). Add 32 ounces in 55 gal. keg
    1 Ounce per quart of fluid.
    Small Oil Injected Engines
    4 Ounces in the oil side.
    Liquid Cooled
    1 Ounce per quart of oil.
    Four Stroke
    Air cooled, 2 Ounces per Qt.
    Two Stroke
    2 Ounces per gallon after pre-mixing with 2 stroke oil.
    Engines with By-Pass Filtration
    Initial treatment: add 2 ounces per quart of total oil volume. (1 Gallon)
    Replenish when changing filters with 1 quart of Hyper Lubricant.
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2015

  2. arceeguy

    arceeguy Active Member

    I am highly skeptical of any miracle oil treatment, especially the ones that claim they "bond to metal" or "soak into the pores" of metal. I have run cars well over 200K miles with conventional motor oil, and oil change intervals of 10,000 miles. In all cases, the cars were sold off or scrapped for reasons other than engine failure. I'm one of those guys that doesn't buy into the 3,000 mile oil change myth either. I don't believe that frequent oil changes or oil additives are worth the "insurance" that they give. Placebo effect for sure, but no real gains in longevity or performance. Our fleet manager where I work has shown me the reality with oil tests that show that many cars can easily go 10K miles without any special filters, oil, or care. One of the cars I drove, a lowly Ford Escort had 250K miles on the clock and was sold because the company didn't want to replace the suspension struts on a vehicle that old and with that many miles. The engine still ran like a champ! Other cars (like certain Toyotas) need to have their oil changed more frequently because of poor engineering that results in oil sludge.
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2009
  3. I hear ya and I know it sounds like snake oil...if I hadn't seen results I wouldn't have bought another quart. What I can say for sure that it does is quiet the engine way no longer sounds like a weed eater. It also takes away a lot of vibration. It does not seem to bog down as much even at a very slow speed uphill the engine woulda died before. I did not see fuel economy increase on the big truck I used it on but the turbo temp went down quite a bit. Peterbuilt truck I drove had a pyrometer. Funny you mention it I had a '90 Ford Escort 0% interest 0 down was one of the most economical cars I ever owned. My wife had a fender bender and the fender was bolt on cost me $25 at the bone yard we made $1000 off that deal.

    I had a 2005 Suzuki boulevard 650 barely broke in that had vibration so bad you could barely see in the mirror if there was a car behind you...I put a couple of ounces of MK in and you could then tell if a cop was behind you. I do not know if it got better fuel economy nor if it lasted longer this was about the time I lost home car ect. I know they can do most anything with a camera but the infomercial I saw showed the old hang weights on a lever bearing thingy and they had to grind the metal to get the slick off. It does bond to metal it does not raise the oil level on a dipstick after running has to be somewhere. Norman's gonna try the stuff I hope he don't come rough me up if it don't work LOL!

    One other thing to consider it'll cost $26 for a quart (half quart is $20) but you will only use maybe $5 worth to treat everything on the bike...cables...gears...chain...engine...don't put any on your seat you will slide off LOL
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2009
  4. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    additives are not the way to go when it comes to engine oils.
    If additives were so good, all new cars would come with them already in the crankcase. New car manufacturers would reccomend that fuel and oil additives be used all the time from the time the car is brand new.
    changing your engine oil and filter as well as replaceing your fuel filter and air filter at regular intervals will make your engine run for a LONG time.
    additives are for the people who do not know what preventative maintanance means. when they can't figure out why their engine is making noise at 100,000 miles they toss a can of oil additive in to try and fix the problem.

    i used to work at a frieghtliner dealership and we serviced cats, cummins, detroits and mercedes benz engines. any time someone requested that a bottle of lucas (or any other additive) be added to their engine oil, their warranty would go out the window(if the engine was still under warranty that is).
    I've seen and heard it all about oil and fuel additives, and i don't buy any of the claims.

    just my opinion on the subject.
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2009

  5. So you trust the new car manufacturers we all just bailed out to help you not have to buy another overpriced car from them eh?
    I'm just sayin...

    I have heard and witnessed all sorts of voiding warranties on big trucks that are ludicrous as the sign saying our insurance doesn't cover you in our shop...they don't want you in their shop so you can't see the daily screw ups mechanics do. It's got to be wrong on one side or the other the Lucas says right on the label it does not void warranty so does motorkote now I haven't read the warranty on a freight shaker say any of the above. I could be wrong but I do remember if I had an engine problem it went to detroit or whatever the engine brand was not the dealership the dealership might tell them but they sure as heck weren't the ones deciding warranty issues.

    Just my opinion on the matter. My results from using MK were observation however.
  6. arceeguy

    arceeguy Active Member

    Oil and fuel additives discussions often spawn little fights. Everyone has their own opinion on them. I just fail to see how an oil additive can affect the balance of an engines rotating parts and reduce vibration at all. I am also not a metallurgist, but I fail to see how an oil treatment can bond itself to metal parts, or "soak into" the micro pores enough to make any difference above and beyond good old oil. The companies that make "dura lube" and "slick 50" have had to settle with the FTC on unsubstantiated claims about their products. Take a close look at how oil additive companies word their product description and the disclaimers following clebrity endorsements, etc. I am sure that you are doing your engines no harm, so to each his own I suppose. :)
  7. I don't know why anyone gets in such a huff every time someone thinks what they are doing works. I am only reporting my results I am not making any longevity claims nor fuel miliage boost claims nor do I profit from MK sales. Everyone that has seen me on my MB has comented how much quieter it is. This stuff is not an oil additive else you would have to keep putting it in.
  8. arceeguy

    arceeguy Active Member

    George - nobody is in a huff here. Just offering an opinion on oil treatments.

    Search this site for "sea foam" and other additives and you'll see what I mean about discussion turning into fights.

    Over and out.
  9. Any time I hear the inclusive word ALL bells go off. When someone says ALL oil additives are junk this means to me that they think no new additive can be made that is any good...pretty closed minded.

    I bought those platinum split tipped spark plugs years ago made quite a difference in my Suburu didn't do a thing for my Chevy van with a 350 engine.
  10. arceeguy

    arceeguy Active Member

    George, motorkote is not a new additive, it has been around for years. It is produced by the same company that markets Duralube. Hmmmmmmmm......

    Also, I didn't say that ALL additives are junk. I have used products to help oil consumption (STP, etc.) an products to clean clogged hydraulic lifters (Rislone, etc.). These products don't claim miracles. STP is simply a super thick oil that raises the viscosity of your motor oil so it doesn't slip by worn rings and valve guides as easily - so your clunker consumes less oil. Rislone is a mild solvent that cleans sludged up lifters when you buy a used car that wasn't maintained very well. lol

    I did say that I am skeptical of any additive that claims to "instantly bond to metal", etc. and so on. If you want to continue to use motorkote, have at it.
  11. I wasn't quoting you.

    I've used motor honey ect when I had big oil leaks and bad oil burn issues and it worked for a bandaid but sure was not a fix.

    I've used Lucas power steering treatment and did not have to replace a pump...IMO it fixed that one.

    I do know MK does do something good it has to be reducing friction to make my engine quieter...haven't tried it on the keyboard obviously LOL
  12. flashstar

    flashstar Member

    I do not believe in the 10,000 mile engine oil change interval. My friend's Maxima which has had the oil changed every 7,000 miles with Mobil 1 has fairly severe sludge build-up in the crankcase. My 300zx on the other hand had its oil changed every 3,000 miles by the previous owner and when I got the car it only had a light film of browning inside the crank case.

    Since I've added Royal Purple, even that is clearing up. I'm sure that an engine would be fine for 5000-6000 miles without an oil change if you are using a good synthetic oil and filter and change the filter every 3,000 miles.

    I wouldn't purchase any additives aside from Sea Foam and MMO. These have been around for ages and have had mostly positive reviews.

    Why get anything extra for these engines when you can just pull off the head and clean it in under an hour?
  13. Mountainman

    Mountainman Active Member

    I have known some good car, truck and tractor mechanics
    who don't like anyTHING sticking to their metal
    just plain old good old oil
    I am also one who has gotten remarkable miliage from every engine ever owned
    getting older guy who has never had an engine seize or blow to pieces or go out in huff of smoke

    used to add a few things to my oil sometimes
    then those mechanic guys told me to stop that
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2009
  14. Skyliner70cc

    Skyliner70cc Active Member

  15. arceeguy

    arceeguy Active Member

    Our fleet manager takes into account many factors before he assigns an oil change interval for a car. He determines the type of driving, then sends the oil in for analysis at a lab to determine whether the car can go with extended oil change intervals. If a car gets re-assigned to a different department, he goes through ths process again. I am in no way advocating that people just jump into a 10K maintenance schedule.

    Modern engines burn so clean that the oil does no get contaminated nearly as fast as it did before the days of computer controlled fuel injection. My old carbureted 1972 Chevy Nova got oil changes every 4,000 miles or so - and the oil was black on the dipstick. The oil on my 94 minivan is only light brown on the dipstick after 5,000 miles, and a chemical analysis shows that it has plenty of life left in it. At 10,000 miles, the viscosity is up a bit - but within range and insolubles (sludge) were indicating the need for an oil change.

    Our fleet manager indicates that oil analysis and extended oil change intervals have saved the company hundreds of thousands of dollars in uneeded oil changes and wasted motor oil. Saving money, conserving natural resources and not affecting vehicle life sounds like a winner to me!
  16. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    typically in a car that is drivin mainly around town (stop & go traffic) changing oil & filter should be done every 3000 miles. on a car that is mostly driven on the highway (limited stop & go traffic) 5000 mile oil changes are probably ok. BUT, in my experience, 3000 miles is a good oil change interval for any engine. it's just preventative maintance and it's what keeps a motor alive. lets say that you typically change your oil every 5000 miles and have done so for many years. well, when your engine starts to burn oil, and you let it go for 5000 miles before you change the oil it is possible that you will be low on oil which is not good for any engine. checking the oil on a regular basis is a good idea but sometimes people just forget to do that.
    royal purple is some of the best synthetic oil out there in my opinion. it is used on many high performnce drag engines and there is a significant gain in horsepower over conventional oils.
    this subject can be beat to death because so many people have so many diferent opinions. i just say that if whatever you decide to do works for you, then do it. i personally do not beleive in oil additives and i do not use them. but again that is my opinion.
    there is also a problem with conventional motor oils that i read about. conventional oil no longer has zinc in it. this is one of the common complaints from engine builders because the zinc helps prolong cam life. i'm talking about when they use aftermarket high performance cams. this is also a statement they make when it comes to old engines...older engines need the zinc to prolong cam life. weather this is true or not, is still up in the air.
    there is only one conventional motor oil out there today that still contains zinc, and that's rotella T.
    i use rotella in my 55 pontiac because the engine is "old school" and i don't want to take any chances on starving it from zinc.(weather it's true or not)
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2009
  17. OK here goes Norman's observations from the other site:

    Default Re: Motorkote
    yes I did. I rode the bike around first to see how it felt then I put 1/2 oz. in the plug hole then rolled the engine over a few time. Then 1 oz. in the tank mixed with 2 oz. of fuel rode the bike for a few miles
    as I did the engine needed to have its idle adjusted a little lower. I find that the engine runs smoother and accelerates better than before. The idle had to be lowered I'm guessing to the decreased friction of the moving parts. I run Poulan syn. 2 stroke oil mixed at 40 to 1 in case your wondering.
    This oil additive does seem to help I should have done a compression check before treating and after treating but didn't think to do it at the time. I did find that it smoked a lot until the poured in oil worked its way out of the engine plus it smelled strange. The other bikes are going to get treated with 1 oz. mixed with 2 oz of gas and then poured into the tank.
    I was not paid or received the product free for trying this product I ordered it on line and paid around $26.00 for a 32 oz bottle. I don't think George sells it either he purchased the product like I did to try it
    so its up to you guys if you want to try it.
    Bottom line it does seem to me to help make the engine run with less friction. I'm still testing it for fun
    this is the only"snake oil" additive I've tried. I do believe in Syn. oils and use them. Amsoil' Royal Purple,
    Mobil one, and the Poulan syn. 2-stroke oil.
  18. Vistaman73

    Vistaman73 Member

    Well I am about to try this stuff. GNT sent me an engine I think it may be the one of topic, and it needed some help, I still need a set of 48cc gaskets. LOL. But anyways, he sent it to me with some of this stuff in liquid and in grease, after some researsh I think I'm going to use the liquid in the tank AND a drop or two into the access hole of the clutch mechanism. And use the grease on the gears, etc. I am so happy to have an engine finally. Thanks again George I love everything I got. I'm glad your new job is going good.

    Best Wishes,
  19. Luka

    Luka Member

    Personal anecdotal evidence in favor of Dura-Lube...

    I tried the Slick50... It was total ****.

    So it took quite a bit of convincing, to get me to try Dura-Lube.

    But I did finally try it.

    In a VERY tired old datsun engine.

    It made immediate differences in the way the engine ran.

    Increased the gas mileage significantly enough that you didn't even have to count the gallons and miles, it was evident on the fuel guage. But I counted anyway, and discovered I went from 15MPG to over 20.

    Then, one night, someone came the wrong direction on the highway.

    Forced me over the concrete meridian in the middle.

    This tore a gash in the oil pan. I lost ALL oil, immediately.

    Not having any money for a tow, I was in a quandary. I was only 3 miles from home. So... I decided to take a chance. Drive home, and watch the temp guage, and pay very close attention to any sounds, etc. Stop at the very first sign of trouble.

    I drove all the way home, with the guage never going over 220 and absolutely no rough running, or sounds, etc.

    Took the oil pan off, fixed the gash, reinstalled then filled again with oil and Dura-Lube. The engine never showed any sign whatever, of any damage. Gas mileage stayed up there. Etc.

    I know only enough to know that I can't absolutely attribute all that to the Dura-Lube. You won't find me getting into a fight about it.

    But I do know exactly what I wrote above. And the Dura-Lube was the only variable that I know of to attribute it to. Take it or leave it.

    It left me open to the possibility that while there is no such thing as a miracle in a can... There IS a possibility that someone can come up with an additive that makes a difference.

    I won't write off something that has good reviews, and no bad that I can find. Just because I believe there is no such thing as a miracle in a can.

    It's not going to give me a completely new engine. It isn't going to triple my gas mileage. It isn't going to put shoes on my grandchildren's feet. And it isn't going to bring about world peace. But I'll try the motorkote, when I can afford it.
  20. Luka

    Luka Member

    I tried those platinum splits too. Made absolutely no difference in either a datsun, or a chevy.

    The platinum tip was so tiny... Phsssssh. But I thought the idea of the split tip had merit.

    So, since then, I have always either bought the NGK split tips, or made my own with a dremel and blunt chisel.

    And yes, even my own split tips do seem to make a difference over the factory straight tips.