G
gone_fishin
Guest
EDIT: oops, i got 2 topics mixed up.
yes, there are some good pics to be found on the carby assembly.
yes, there are some good pics to be found on the carby assembly.
R
retrophoto
Guest
it looks like this piece of tinfoil has a locking lever some kind of flop down thing on it
R
retrophoto
Guest
I have my rear wheel in the bike shop. I couldn't get the bearings to work right. Decided just to let them have a go at it. I have two new questions and need some experienced advice as well.
1. My clutch throw is only about a 1/4" is that right. Surely that isn't enough.
2. Since I am installing this on a 24" sissy frame I knew the gas tank was going to be a problem. Here is my question first then on to the advice section. Question: Will the engine suck the gas from a tank set below the carburetor. The whole tank won't be below but the gas line will definitely be below the level of the carb.
Advice please.
If I go with the big teardrop tank from the kit. On the scaled down sissy frame the tank will be only a half inch or so from the head of the engine. I would think that is going to be too hot for gasoline. The other option is to go with a smaller plastic weed eater tank that I can mount on the sissy bar father from the engine. Either way the carb is going to have to siphon the gas uphill a little bit. What would you do..
1. My clutch throw is only about a 1/4" is that right. Surely that isn't enough.
2. Since I am installing this on a 24" sissy frame I knew the gas tank was going to be a problem. Here is my question first then on to the advice section. Question: Will the engine suck the gas from a tank set below the carburetor. The whole tank won't be below but the gas line will definitely be below the level of the carb.
Advice please.
If I go with the big teardrop tank from the kit. On the scaled down sissy frame the tank will be only a half inch or so from the head of the engine. I would think that is going to be too hot for gasoline. The other option is to go with a smaller plastic weed eater tank that I can mount on the sissy bar father from the engine. Either way the carb is going to have to siphon the gas uphill a little bit. What would you do..
G
gone_fishin
Guest
the carby is gravity fed bowl-type, it will not siphon anything at all...you have no choice but to get the fuel system above the carby inlet.
(white-wire fuel pump?)
(white-wire fuel pump?)
R
retrophoto
Guest
Thanks
wife had a broom with a blue handle this morning. Now it is a fake crossbar with a gas tank on it. How about that clutch with a tiny throw is that right. Seems like a quarter inch isn't near enough.
wife had a broom with a blue handle this morning. Now it is a fake crossbar with a gas tank on it. How about that clutch with a tiny throw is that right. Seems like a quarter inch isn't near enough.
R
retrophoto
Guest
help help
I know you are tired of me asking questions but I just got the kit together and everything seems to be going wrong. I havent started it yet so it's still build problems.
this one really has me worried. I just got the chains back on so I tried to push it across the shop floor. The engine was engaged. the good news it has compression.. The bad new the clutch has no effect on releasing the engine. I can feel compression no matter what I do. I removed the clutch cable and moved the lever in every possible position but the engine stays engaged no matter what I do.
Any idea what I did wrong or how I screwed it up.
Thanks for the help
I know you are tired of me asking questions but I just got the kit together and everything seems to be going wrong. I havent started it yet so it's still build problems.
this one really has me worried. I just got the chains back on so I tried to push it across the shop floor. The engine was engaged. the good news it has compression.. The bad new the clutch has no effect on releasing the engine. I can feel compression no matter what I do. I removed the clutch cable and moved the lever in every possible position but the engine stays engaged no matter what I do.
Any idea what I did wrong or how I screwed it up.
Thanks for the help
M
mickey
Guest
The clutch arm moves yes? Can you swing it by hand, maybe with a helper bar of some kind? You should feel it push the clutch rod toward the right side of the motor. There should be springy pressure resisting you.
edit: take off the sprocket cover and ensure that there is a rod to push against.
You can even take off the clutch cover and see the pressure plate move as you press.
edit2: When you say that you have compression, do you mean that you can feel the engine turning (with the spark plug out) or the tire just wont move at all? Often, the chain jams up in the sprocket cover and the wheel won't turn.
edit: take off the sprocket cover and ensure that there is a rod to push against.
You can even take off the clutch cover and see the pressure plate move as you press.
edit2: When you say that you have compression, do you mean that you can feel the engine turning (with the spark plug out) or the tire just wont move at all? Often, the chain jams up in the sprocket cover and the wheel won't turn.
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R
retrophoto
Guest
No resistance at all. Clutch lever moves from pointing at the rear wheel to 25% of the circle and points directly to the side. No resistance at all. I stops dead a those two spots.
I took the cover off and the rod is there and it slides out but the clutch does not seem to engage it at all. I tried to push it in by hand and nothing moved. It just bottomed out.
I thought the rod inside the clutch housing moved inward to disengage the drive. This one just bottoms out and does nothing.
I can feel the engine turn as i move the wheels. Since I had the clutch cover off I know the chain isn't jamed. The rod just had no resistance it easily moves to the bottom of its shaft and stops. I'm lost I have never seen on of these things let alone worked one one.
I took the cover off and the rod is there and it slides out but the clutch does not seem to engage it at all. I tried to push it in by hand and nothing moved. It just bottomed out.
I thought the rod inside the clutch housing moved inward to disengage the drive. This one just bottoms out and does nothing.
I can feel the engine turn as i move the wheels. Since I had the clutch cover off I know the chain isn't jamed. The rod just had no resistance it easily moves to the bottom of its shaft and stops. I'm lost I have never seen on of these things let alone worked one one.
M
mickey
Guest
Hmm. There is, or should be, a ball bearing at the clutch plate side of the rod. If this is missing, the rod will be too short to reach the pressure plate. You didn't see something like that fall out or be laying loose in the packaging? How to test without taking the pressure plate off?
With the sprocket cover off, can you push the rod in, further than the cam on the clutch arm can push? That might mean the ball bearing fell out.
edit: I have to admit that I haven't seen the ball bearing in mine, just been told that its there to keep from grinding the rod on the turning plate. Maybe someone can confirm what I'm saying.
With the sprocket cover off, can you push the rod in, further than the cam on the clutch arm can push? That might mean the ball bearing fell out.
edit: I have to admit that I haven't seen the ball bearing in mine, just been told that its there to keep from grinding the rod on the turning plate. Maybe someone can confirm what I'm saying.
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M
mickey
Guest
Darn it, I know someone posted a link or a jpg of a chinese motor exploded but I can't find it.
Found one: http://www.bicycle-engines.com/2stroke-parts-clutch-assembly-c-4_7.html?osCsid=bc9ec9af170e15f147be954eaba2188f
Found one: http://www.bicycle-engines.com/2stroke-parts-clutch-assembly-c-4_7.html?osCsid=bc9ec9af170e15f147be954eaba2188f
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