Carby my carb won't fit!!!

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yeah, I'm having a little trouble with my offset intake. I thought you would notice it wasn't level. cant seam to get it tight enough and I don't think I have a good seal, I'm working on that. thanks for the pointers, so the screw is just an idle adjustment, not a running a adj.?
All is good and havin fun!
 
Idle Screw

Yeah Dan, It's just an idle adjustment screw. If you look at the carb slide, you will notice on one side it has a long straight slot. On the other side it has a short beveled slot at the bottom. The idle screw hits the short slot to move the slide up or down to adjust the idle.
The long slot lines up with a pin to keep the slide in the proper position.
You might have to go with the copper fittings and silver solder on your intake. Whatever you decide to do, I wish you Good luck with it.
Big Red.
 
thanks for that info, I re adjust,...I did use copper fittings but I just used 50/50 solder, and paint. I'll see how that holds up, I may try a shorter intake (someone mentioned earlier) and see if the carb fits but I think Ill have trouble with the throttle cable hitting the upper tube
 
After riding about 50 miles I noticed that I do not have a good seal on my intake modification and it was running funny. So I bought some o rings and put them on each side of the offset I also put some rtv silicone on the outside of the connection and let it dry overnight then put the clamp on (real tight) seams to be getting a good seal now. I check it with carb cleaner while its running, before it would kill the engine
 
well, it seams to be sputtering at about 20 mph but eventually smooths out, I feel it should be running better. any suggestions?
 
in theory, the smoothest flowing intake should be as straight as possible.
an intake with curves and bends can create restrictions in the flow, but i don't think that will make much difference on one of these engines.
intake length and diameter can affect the way an engine runs, but it can get pretty deep....too much to try and explain it.
 
Sputter.

Motorpsycho is right, But there are other things to consider also. I assume it's a new engine and I hope you're running a little oil rich for break in. AFTER the break in period you'll be running a little higher octane for the simple reason you'll be running ONLY SLIGHTLY less oil in the mix. So, less oil, better ignition in the cylinder. Also, some engines just run a little rough untill broke in. But, the first thing you want to do is replace the spark plug and wire. That cheap stuff that comes with the kit is garbage. A stronger spark should help a lot. NGK is best and most say use the B6HS. Part# 7534. And a better wire will transfer it to the plug more efficiently.
Make sure no garbage got through to the carb. The gas tank has real cheap paint and can chip off at the gas cap and wind up in the tank. I've cleaned a lot of paint chips out of my carbs. Now I just sand or scrape the paint off before I put the tank on.
The intake might be affecting it some. Make REAL sure it has no leaks. but try these other things first. I've done a lot of hard work only to find out later it was something simple.
Big Red.
 
Thanks for all this great info, I think I have a good seal on the intake, and I'm using 32/1 gas oil mix, I think I'll try new plug and wire next, can I buy this at an auto parts store or should I go to an online site? I still have not soldered the wire connections yet but its on my list.
 
Smooth!

Thanks for all this great info, I think I have a good seal on the intake, and I'm using 32/1 gas oil mix, I think I'll try new plug and wire next, can I buy this at an auto parts store or should I go to an online site? I still have not soldered the wire connections yet but its on my list.
Check the intake by drizzling water on both sides of the intake connections. At an idle the engine will lug or die if there's a leak. A new plug and wire is one of the first things you should have done. If your near a Kragens/O'Riely's They'll have what you need. A NGKB6HS, (Part# 7534) spark plug and any good quality plug wire and boot should be fine.
Get those wires soldered, but as long as they're not touching anything you're OK for now. If bare wires touch metal while riding, that could be where you're getting a rough engine from. Just keep yer eye on it and fix it ASAP.
Big Red.
 
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