My Dual Suspension Road Racer

I think that MY holy grail in motorized bikes has been a dual suspension bike. I wanted a mid frame engine bike for a start. The frame HAD to be dual suspension. I found only one bike that fit the bill. The only one so far that I know of and here it is:
Kent Glendale Dual Suspension Comfort Series 26" 7 speed
Its got:
"H*ll Bent" 6deg. swept back bars,

70cc engine kit from "thatsdax!",

Expansion Chamber exhaust system, combined F/R brake lever, front no drill engine mount from "Spookytooth Cycles",

Speedometer,

compass/bell,

and it features a "direct chain drive" hub mounted driven sprocket, bolted to a black 26 inch "Teny" Aluminum/Magnisium alloy 7speed freewheel wheel rear that gives you a PERFECTLY straight sprocket alignment. No spokes to maintain, or replace EVER!
Well, what yall think?
 

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Nice build! I'm very envious! Where did you aquire the bike? And what did the spring come out of, for your tensioner?

I've had a similar idea floating in my head (tensioner) but the frame is what makes it all work!
 
Where did you aquire the bike? And what did the spring come out of, for your tensione

I got the bike off the internet. $190 with shipping. Walmart used to carry them, but I think they're a discontinued model. The idler spring is a generic automotive manual transmission clutch lever return spring. Its under maybe about 30, to 50 lbs force and cost 7 dollars at the local parts house. There's also a "Cadillac AVP-1" that costs $500 and up. Its identical to the Glendale I own, except it has front/back disc brakes. Very beautiful bike.
 
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any lag with that intake setup???

Looks cool though... Does the sprocket bolt to that wheel?
 
any lag?

To be honest I have not even started the engine yet!

I've pedaled it around to check the chains alignment, and to see if it would jump off the sprocket while riding, (it didn't) but have not actually fired the engine up on this bike yet.

HOWEVER, I had that exhaust on my other daily ridden, motorized bike. Its my first a beater I call the "road warrior".

Its also my test platform for modifications. It was loud as H*ll! I dont recall a lag in throttle response at all.

It did SEEM to be going slower because of all the extra noise, but a quick glance at the speedometer confirmed I was cruising at normal speed.

The sprocket center hole has to be enlarged to 53mm to 54mm to fit over the "Teny" wheels hub. The adapter fits like a cap over the end of the hub, and I have six 5x20mm socket head bolts securing it. Dont use soft chinese hardware here. Use grade 8 hardened steel for the sprocket to adapter.

The sprocket then bolts to the adapter. Adjust the chain left/right by adding washers and/or flipping the dished sprocket to the best position for your bikes alignment.

There are three washers between my sprocket and the adapter on each bolt to give the needed alignment. The adapter is called the "Top Hat" and is sold by a guy on ebay. These are his photos from ebay. search for sprocket adapter and you'll see his stuff.
 

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Reason for Intake length

Hi guys, I had to extend the intake using a 3/4 in fuel resistant hose found on ebay.

The reason for the extension is to make room to mount the carburetor, and performance air filter. There's not enough room to mount this type of air filter in the stock position( its designed for a pocket bike) on any normal bicycle, so I found a spot to mount it to, and bought the fuel line.

I am using a 50cc pocket bike carb (ebay) as they are better carb's equipped with a fuel shut off, teflon coated slide, a stronger slide return spring, and a mixture set screw.

My pocket bike carb uses a two hole stud system just like the bike engines exhaust, and intake manifolds.

To connect the carb to the extended engine intake manifold, I sawed off the end (at the angle) of a stock intake manifold, turned it around backwards using a stock gasket to seal it, and pointed it down to better align it with the engines intake manifold.

The stock intake manifolds stud holes are a little closer together than the carb's stud holes, but the stock gasket will seal the union between the two.

Theres only about a .5mm or less difference in the spacing of the hole pattern between the carb and stock intake manifold holes, but a round file elongating the holes makes it work!

The carb itself is attached to the bike using an " L" shaped piece of mild .25 steel that is secured to the top bracket of the rear suspension spring using a self tapping screw.
 
Nice! What is your top speed and how much did you gain by adding that new carb?



Hi guys, I had to extend the intake using a 3/4 in fuel resistant hose found on ebay.

The reason for the extension is to make room to mount the carburetor, and performance air filter. There's not enough room to mount this type of air filter in the stock position( its designed for a pocket bike) on any normal bicycle, so I found a spot to mount it to, and bought the fuel line.

I am using a 50cc pocket bike carb (ebay) as they are better carb's equipped with a fuel shut off, teflon coated slide, a stronger slide return spring, and a mixture set screw.

My pocket bike carb uses a two hole stud system just like the bike engines exhaust, and intake manifolds.

To connect the carb to the extended engine intake manifold, I sawed off the end (at the angle) of a stock intake manifold, turned it around backwards using a stock gasket to seal it, and pointed it down to better align it with the engines intake manifold.

The stock intake manifolds stud holes are a little closer together than the carb's stud holes, but the stock gasket will seal the union between the two.

Theres only about a .5mm or less difference in the spacing of the hole pattern between the carb and stock intake manifold holes, but a round file elongating the holes makes it work!

The carb itself is attached to the bike using an " L" shaped piece of mild .25 steel that is secured to the top bracket of the rear suspension spring using a self tapping screw.
 
Nice! What is your top speed and how much did you gain by adding that new carb?

Actually I'm not ready to ride yet. I have not even gassed it up yet! I have been toying with the idea of selling it, but I have a few more upgrades before I'm ready to roll. Thats the main reason I'm keeping it new, and unridden.

I've already invested over $830 just buying the parts needed for this project, and I aint done yet! I intend to buy the "shifter kit" to install too. I NEED GEARS!

I am revising my spring loaded chain tensioner. My Test bike reveled that the plastic pully is not durable enough to last for very long under spring pressure.

I have ordered a heavy duty steel ball bearing #40 idler sprocket which has the same pitch as the stock #415 chain to replace the stock plastic pulley.

I have also ordered a suspension seatpost, a motorcycle hi/lo beam 25 watt headlight, a motorcycle headlight switch, a SLA 12v 2.2Amp battery, and a "Mini-Gen-Max" 12volt generator (ebay) to slow the battery drain. I 'll have to put together a rectifier circuit between the battery and AC generator to produce DC current for charging the battery,

If I can find a lower, 10 watt bulb for the headlight there will be NO battery drain!

The ultimate goal for my chicom engine setup as far as possible is, Honda motorcycle reliability, durability, and motorcycle benefits without the needed hassel of Dl, registration, and insurance requirements.

Oh yeah, for those haters that say "why not just buy a motorcycle", I do own a Ford F-100 pickup truck, and a full dress classic 1980 Yamaha XS850 special for which I do have a DL, and I do operate and keep registered and insured.
 
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