My first build - Schwinn Del Mar

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Gungatim, Aug 26, 2008.

  1. Gungatim

    Gungatim Member

    Well, My son and I just started our first build project. We are using the Schwinn Del Mar cruiser style bike from Walmart. When we saw it in the rack it was literally begging for a motor! We are using the powerking 80cc kit and so far have made a few modifications: cross drilled the chain idler and installed a grease zerk (pic 1). This should make it easy to grease between rides. The fitting clears the spokes but I didn't realize the nylon actually faced inward toward the tire, so the clearance is a little tighter than I thought. We then tried to install the engine but ran into a couple of mounting snags. First, the rear mount was too small for the upright tube. we used our OSS from the woodshop to widen the curve of the aluminum block. Course sandpaper on a 1 1/4" drum worked perfectly and it now matches the tube exactly. For the front mount, the studs would not even clear the main tube. I have seen some who drill, and others who bend the tube to make it fit. Instead, we decided to make a plate mount using two 1 1/4" pipe clamps, some flat stock, and washers (although I am looking for some spacers to replace the washers with for better looks) See pic 2 for detail.
    The rear sprocket went on pretty easily, it did need the ID enlarged .020 to clear the hub, but a minute or so with the Dremel fixed that up. It slipped on with a little friction and is centered perfectly.
    The mufler will need to be bent, of course, and we still have a few things to hook up. I ordered locknuts and M6 allthread from Mcmaster Carr and will replace fasteners this week. I did try using capscrews on the magneto cover but the head diameter does not fit the holes...bummer...it would have looked cool. I am also toying with the idea of using brass compression fittings and soft copper tubing for the fuel line to get more of an old fashioned look.

    Let me know what you think.

    http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/tschubeck/motorbike3.jpg
    http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/tschubeck/motorbike2.jpg
    http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/tschubeck/motorbike4.jpg
    http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/tschubeck/motorbike1.jpg
    http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/tschubeck/motorbike.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 26, 2008

  2. Whirlwind

    Whirlwind New Member

    Hi Gungatim
    I was also looking for a bike (1st build) to hang my 47cc 2-stroke on, and I would have bought the exact same bike as you if the bikes hadn't been parked outside of Walmart rusting from exposure. I settled on a Schwinn Legacy Cruiser for $98 from Target.

    As to mechanicals......I took a similar approach to mounting the engine. See pic. I'll tackle the exhaust this weekend. I struggled with how I would handle the exhaust and settled on welding an extension similar to another that I found on this forum. See pic. I'm interested in how you mounted your sprocket. Mine fit nicely over the hub. Both of the gaskets or thick rubber dampers are located on the inside of the spokes with the sprocket resting against the spokes. I don't like the spokes up against the sprocket, but I saw no other way. Is this what you did? Stay posted. We may be able to help each other avoid the other's pitfalls.
     

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  3. Gungatim

    Gungatim Member

    sprocket mounting

    For my rear sprocket, we initially mounted it up against the spokes with one rubber inside the wheel. After reading more and seeing some misalignment with the front sprocket, I took it apart last night and put in the 2nd rubber between the gear and spokes. I think this is the way to go. The only issue is that the bearing cap on the coaster brake side is sized to go over the hub, but with the gear on there, it takes up the space where the bearing cap would be. Seems to be only a minor issue, as when I tighten down the axle, the bearing cap pulls in tightly and only the edges are slightly bent.
    I had to cut away a fair chunk of fender to keep the chain aligned, but I am very uncomfortable with how close the chain rides to the tire. Does yours run close? I will try and post some more pics next week after we are back from camping. The bike is about ready for the road, just need to wire tie the cables and fillerup with gas!
     
  4. Front Mount

    Heres a pic of my Delmar Front Mount
     

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  5. bluegoatwoods

    bluegoatwoods Well-Known Member

    Nice work, guys. Gungatim's grease fitting is a good idea. And I liked the green motor mount a lot.

    Chain/tire clearance seems to be a bit of an issue on coaster brake type bikes. I mounted an HT on a Kulana and it was real close. Chewed up the first tire pretty bad. With some pushing and pulling I got it out far enough, though.
     
  6. biken stins

    biken stins Member

    Had trouble with chain tire clearance also. Schwinn cruiser, coaster brake. Used 1/16" flat stock between sprocket and fiber sprocket. Used the metal retainer for a pattern.Went with shorter round allen head bolts.Seems to work ok.
     
  7. Egor

    Egor Guest

    I like the cruiser frames but the distance from the engine to the frame is long and I have to make up the distance. I am building this now, I will let you know how it turns out. I am hoping that it will also help in the vibration also (IE isolate some) if this works out I will use it on my Schwinn. Have fun, Dave
     

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  8. man you need saddles on them Clamps the area you are using is nill.
     
  9. Egor

    Egor Guest

    Hot Dog I like the fins on that head, what kit is that? I wish all the manufactures knew the need for good fins. Have fun, Dave

    PS: I abandon that mount for a rear one out front.
     
  10. Irish John

    Irish John Guest

    That's a picture of your rear mount.
     
  11. Irish John

    Irish John Guest

    I use an extra engine block spacer to reach the gooseneck downtube on a cruiser and then fix it to the tube with a single 8mm bolt through the downtube. Looks clean and holds it really fast.
     

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  12. Egor

    Egor Guest

    This is what I ended up with. The other one concentrated too much vibration at the mounting points to the frame, it then just seared the aircraft rivet. The vibration is the same. Have fun, Dave
     

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  13. Irish John

    Irish John Guest

    The other one was a nice looking piece of metalwork but I could see that it wasn't going to withstand the vibrations from the motor. Not only are rivets no good but the M6 studs that come with the motor have a tendency to snap from fatigue pretty quickly. M8 studs are much better but there isn't enough room to fit them without going too near the edge of the engine casing. Never use the studs that come with the kit cos they are poor quality metal - make your own from 12.9 hardness high tensile steel.
     
  14. Well on the whole Upgrading the studs thing. I have done 19 bikes and 2 of them had the harder steel. The thing you watch out for is the standard 5.5mm rolled thread soft steel. Upgrade as you will but I just got my order from Nantong Jiali and they are by far the best hardest true++ 6mm studs I've seen I used them on build 18 and put 13lbs torq. Oh Wow I remember stripping so many of the others at 11lbs. 13 was just what the Doctor ordered! No movement even with the vibration proof pads. LiveFast has some hardened good ones.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 12, 2009
  15. You get the Just though
     
  16. I use SS its tough not hard!
     
  17. Thats what I use on the front rear is B7 which is more maleable than grade 8 and is as strong as Stainless.
     
  18. The Stainless Steel works great in 1/4" though. I use it when were out of B7. The only time hard ones are the best is 6mm only because the clamp on the other side of the tube being mounted toois for 6mm and with a 1/4" the surface is'nt great enough thus the mounting bolt/stud gets a Pinch point in it. Making Maleable And Tensil a must. This is why I don't use regular grade 5 or 7, or 8 very often. I do use Stainless too. the flat front is generally ss on my Blackie Build.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 14, 2009
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