my flasher relay is not flashing

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by RedBaronX, Sep 3, 2011.

  1. RedBaronX

    RedBaronX Member

    I bought a three prong flasher relay that says it's for LEDs. 12v, 2-20 amps. I'm going basically straight from the battery (12v 7 amp SLA battery) to the relay then to the light, and then back around to the negative terminal. Light but no flashy. Ignored the third prong.

    What is wrong? What do I need? or need instead?

  2. Newfie Rider

    Newfie Rider New Member

    You mentioned a third prong, automotive flasher relays are 3 prong plug-in types as well, one for positive, one negative, and the negative ground. Basically a grounding wire but in a car it's called a "negative- ground" because of the rubber tires between the actual ground & the car. Excess voltage is dissipated through the frame of the car.
    Just an educated guess but running a wire from that prong to a small screw drilled into the frame just could solve it.
    Let us know.
  3. Ypedal

    Ypedal Member

    3 pins.

    and the 3rd pin.. try bridging the 3rd pin with B- ( use a small wire to do this as the frame on your bike is likely not like a car frame being grounded... )
  4. CroMagnum

    CroMagnum Member

    Does the flasher look like this?


    "B" goes to battery positive, "E" goes to battery negative. The lights get hooked from "L" through the turn signal switch to LED + side, and LED - back to battery negative or "E."

    Last edited: Oct 14, 2011
  5. Newfie Rider

    Newfie Rider New Member

    CroMagnum's diagram spells this one out as far as I'm concerned.
    It's good that there are forum members here that will step-up & provide that info.
    On the Canadian Airgun Forum, other members have always assisted their "brothers-in-arms;" so to speak, & it only goes to promote interest in our sport or hobby and carries on.
    - keep havin' fun with it.
  6. RedBaronX

    RedBaronX Member

    HEY! It works! WOO!

    the ticking startled me at first :)
  7. Newfie Rider

    Newfie Rider New Member

    Neat. ;)
    Bottom line question. What do you think made it work ? I'm sure there are other interested parties out there who need the nitty-gritty. let us know.

    I hope you folks can help me with an electrical question too, but I think I should start a new thread rather than get into it here.

    Glad to hear something helped; Ride on.
  8. CroMagnum

    CroMagnum Member

    I'd say hooking it by my diagram probably made it work. :grin5:
  9. RedBaronX

    RedBaronX Member

    that's a big fat 10-4! I just didn't know how to wire it correctly, and now that I do, it works!
  10. Newfie Rider

    Newfie Rider New Member

    Glad to hear you're now flashing as you ride Red, it's cool to see people get good advice from other members.

    O.k. - This IS the section for my question after all, it seems. It's electrical in essence, but regards a 66cc slant Gas-kit I got from e-bay. I might as well ask here while I am invested in the thread, and the grounding question regarding all things; (?,) - BIKE ?

    Anyhow, I am almost finished my "build" but have searched the 2-stroke section and U-Tube only to find two schools of thought on how to wire the kill-switch into the typical Motor/Magneto -to- CDI Black(neg)to Black, & Blue(pos)to Blue, connection.
    ONE clue, from this forum, proved to be useful for me, mentioning a "2-wire" kill-switch(which i have,) and another type that seemingly grounds via the mount to the Handlebar. Is that the difference in having a "shocking-revelation," or NOT ???
    I ask You.
    After the basic connection, you have a white wire from the motor/magneto and two wires from the Kill to deal with.
    SO, if you ground the kill switch to the handlebar & connect the "OTHER" wire to the BLUE(pos) & ignore the WHITE -also(pos) ..... which may be used to run a light or something as the UK folks insist. :) - Which is 1 school O' thought,
    ... OR ...
    Simply, if you have a "2-wire" kill, after the basic connection as above, you can either ground the Green/blue wire from kill, (included grommet, or NOT,) to the FRAME somewhere,
    - OR into the "BLACK" loop - a.k.a. "the engine ground." & then attach the "other" wire(sometimes red/yellow,) from the kill to the WHITE(pos) from the engine or possibly the Blue loop(pos) to create the "Short-Circuit" that shuts the magneto down, & stops the spark.

    Did I get it right ? - please let me know. I got NO installation instructions with my kit, but the quality shows for an e-bay kit from Rico in stead of the Asian stuff.
    Hey, Cro-Magnum or Anybody, ... helpful diagram?, .... anybody?, ....... Buehler?, ........ Buehler? ............. ;)
  11. RedBaronX

    RedBaronX Member

    You'll get more responses if you start a new thread within this Forum section as opposed to "burying" your question in this thread-- the only people who are going to see your question are the tiny handful of people who have been following this thread.
  12. Newfie Rider

    Newfie Rider New Member

    Thanks for that informed suggestion RedBaron, I guess that in the forum vernacular of the day it was like a thread-jacking of sorts - only lamer. My error.
    I appreciate your candor, and the use of the word in "burying" my question. You are quite right.
    Too bad I couldn't just move it elsewhere, I'll have to do as you said and re-post as a new thread soon.
    Again, Thanks.
  13. RedBaronX

    RedBaronX Member

    I have no problem with "thread jacking" as the vernacular goes, but you can pose your question in this forum sub-section, you will get more views and hits