My push trailer build

Discussion in 'Push Trailers' started by EsQueue, Jul 22, 2009.

  1. EsQueue

    EsQueue Member

    After lots of research and pricing I found that it would be cheaper to buy a drivable device and chop it up to make a push trailer.

    Here are some picutures of what I purchased off of ebay for $150. It comes with a real honda 5.5 engine and pretty much everything minus the tuping and hitch. The rear tire is 6 inches wide.

    I have already purchased misc. angle irons, plates and everything from a metal shops scrap bin which costed $12.

    The trailer actually has a rear band brake that holds darn well. I wonder how I would be able to use it on the bike.

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    Here are some google sketch drawings of what I want it to be


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    Here is my progress. I started on 7/21/2009

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    Last edited: Jul 22, 2009

  2. biken stins

    biken stins Member

    Hope the bike your puting it behind has good brakes.
    Your macine looks like it will be able to do a right Fast pace.
    Hope your running it soon.
    Good luck
     
  3. EsQueue

    EsQueue Member

    I was ready to test it out but about 12 people gathered and started to spectate. One even took pictures. I decided to test after it is 100% complete.

    Here are some more pictures of the progress for those who care anyway.

    Here are some pictures of the nearly completed hitch.

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    Here are some pictures of it 98% complete. Only thing missing is a working throttle cable and a kill switch.

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  4. macarollo

    macarollo Guest

    I am impressed. What do you think the top speed will be? Are you going to change the gear ratios at all?
     
  5. EsQueue

    EsQueue Member

    I nearly forgot about this post. I've completed it and redone the hitch as that one has WAY too much play. The thing is fast but the engine has problems :(

    Below are attachments of what I had planned as a new hitch that didn't jerk and wobble. There is also a picture of the steering shaft that I purchased to use as a trailer hitch.
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    Last edited: Jul 27, 2009
  6. EsQueue

    EsQueue Member

    The push trailer is nearly complete. Just need a kill switch. I did find a problem with the engine though. It seems that it throws white smoke after a good drive. Engine most likely *(#$ed up.

    I'll probably salvage parts from another 5.5 that I have. Funny that out of all the honda clones that I have, only the real one breaks. The odd thing is that after it starts smoking the rpm rises noticably and smells like it is running extremely. If it is a carb problem, I would be happy. The engine did sit for over a year. Oil is good.

    Even though it is smoking the bike pulls very hard and I still haven't hit top speed yet and it keeps accelerating.

    Here are pictures of the new hitch and the smoke from the exhaust.


    Off topic: Forget what anyone says about the Miller Maxstar 150 STL welder. I is great only for thicker metal. They have a hotstart feature that helps from sticking. That feature blows holes right through any metal less than 1/4" thick. Most of my time was spent fighting with the machine and repairing holes using my loaded stinger in one hand another rod in my other hand to patch the holes and grind them smooth.

    Any work on thin metal requires a wire feed. With a wirefeed machine, your welds are cleaner and Much MUCH more easy.

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    Last edited: Jul 27, 2009
  7. Gen3Benz

    Gen3Benz Member

    Great job!
    Nice sketchup drawings too!
    Did you find SU to be useful? I know I did.

    I have a couple of those steering shafts lying around at the shop....mercedes driveshafts are nice and skinny too.
     
  8. EsQueue

    EsQueue Member

    Actually more for fun. Someone posted that they used it for something to do with beer on this forum. That is why I started using it.
     
  9. ZnsaneRyder

    ZnsaneRyder Member

    Very nice trailer! Are you enjoying the ride? I see you have the nice big motor :D

    Good work on the welding and the hitch setup!

    Crazy Riding,
    ZnsaneRyder :jester:
     
  10. EsQueue

    EsQueue Member

    I'd have to say no. The honda engine was blown so a 6.5 hp clone was added.

    The thing is that the 6.5 has so much torque that it cause a little jerking. I think that the trailer's arm is flexing and will have to be redone and replaced with 2" thicker pipe.

    The main thing is that the clone engine is so hard to start that it gets dangerous. Holding the throttle while balancing the bike and pullint the started is no easy task.

    I don't plan on giving up though. It seems that many clone engines have similar problems needing choke even when warm. First choke the engine, give it 1/2 throttle while pulling the starter once or twice. Flip the choke off, give it 1/2+ throttle and pull the rope. I have 3 things that will be done and I think will make me enjoy this project.

    1. I will rejet the idle jet to 0.025 which should be simple enough. People who have done this have reported that the engine starts on 1 pull.

    2. I will use thicker pipe to build the arm and reusing the hitch. This should be easy as the thicker pipe will weld better and reduce the flex issue that I am having with the square tubing.

    3. Install electric start. This should severly raise the enjoyment, LOL. I have an empty spot on the trailer that can easily be used for a battery.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2009
  11. It seems a shame you may have to rebuild the hitch with heavier tubing. Do you mean the hitch or the whole tongue? Is the flex torsional (engine flopping side to side) or is it bending of the tongue like an archery bow? Maybe the flex is confined to the 90 degree joint where the tongue meets the trailer in front of the engine. If so maybe you only need a gusset there. Maybe the flex is actually due to the accumulated clearances in the hinge bolt holes. I hate to see these things built too heavy. Can you provide more details about this problem?
    It looks like you may be able to remove the pull start housing and reattach it 90 or 180 degrees rotated so you can pull it easier when standing next to the bike with your other hand on the throttle. I used to park mine with the trailer at a right angle to the bike. It was stabler and also easier to start without tipping the bike over.
    Maybe you could temporarily immobilize the throttle at halfway by tying a strip of inner tube rubber on the handlebar next to and rubbing against the rotating part of the twist grip. That works well for me as a cruise control for my motorcycle.
     
  12. Rgvkid

    Rgvkid Member

    You don't need 2 in. tubing. I would use a minimum of 14 gauge Tubing, .080. Most tubing from the yard is 16gauge, .060. Try to mount the arm with less of a 90 degree to the trailer or gusset the arm on the trailer and gusset the bottom of where you connect the miter cuts in the arm. Also, if you redo the arm over again, better to run it rotated at 45degrees, like diamond shaped. Try grabbing a 10 stick of tubing and put one end on the ground then push pull down on it to see how much it flexes. Now rotate it 45degrees and do the same. You will see the flex is much less. It will be stronger this way with less flex. Thats how i have mine but mine is radiused. The main part is to not have so much of a 90 degree at the connection to the trailer.

    Heres a sketchy sketch.
     

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    Last edited: Aug 3, 2009
  13. EsQueue

    EsQueue Member

    Rotating the pull assembly sounds good and will help. I put the hitch on error. The hitch is probably the strongest part of the build. While it do have less than 1/16" play in the vertical and horizontal slide, it has Zero rotational play. That caused my previous hitch to wobble like no other.

    The problem is that with moderate and heavy acceleration, there is a jerking feeling. Not a smooth acceleration unless I feather it until I get to above 25 and then it is smooth from there. I don't always want to go that fast though. That is the reason why I thought that the arm flexing has to be the cause of this acceleration issue. As you say, welding a gusset may be the solution to this issue without having to redo anything. I can't imagine that 1 1/2" square tubing would have flex issues albeit it is quite thin.


    Wow, thanks for the info. I will first try to add add a gusset at the bottom 90° weld. What is the gauge of your typical front yard drive gate? It's about the same thickness. I definely will use a much larger gauge on my next one if I can't fix on this one. You learn from your errors and I am having fun perfecting this.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2009
  14. Rgvkid

    Rgvkid Member

    After you get this one dialed in I guarantee you will most likely build another with less the amount of labor hours. I wouldn't use any larger then 1.5inx.090 tubing. You will be fine with .080 if you mount it rotated and keep your angles not to sharp. The Gusseting on what you have should hopfullu do the trick. The main thing on these trailers is to still keep them light so that you get max power out of your engine. You want the engine to push you, not you plus all kinds of extra weight. This way, when you want to do a long distance run, you know you can stack on extra gear without putting to much strain on the engine so as to lose alot of power. The 6.5 is pretty hefty as is so the engineering of the trailer has to be correct to its power. Keep us posted and we look forward to hearing or seeing a test run.
     
  15. EsQueue

    EsQueue Member

    Well, as for the engine's starting issue I purchased an assorted box of micro bits from harbor freight for $5.xx. LOL when they say assorted, they mean random as ****. I searched through 10 boxes till I found one that had at least 1 bit that had #73 written on the shaft. I then drilled out the idle jet by hand and tested it out.

    I was very happy with the results. On a cold start: choke on, pull rope, give a little gas for the idle to raise, turn off choke and ride away.

    On hot start: pull rope, give a little gas to raise idle then ride away. Everytime I try to make a video, something happens. While recording, the engine slipped and the chain came off. The reason was that the mounting screws and area were soaked in oil. Just gotta clean it, and put the chain back on.

    Here are some crappy cell phone pictures.

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    Last edited: Aug 3, 2009
  16. EsQueue

    EsQueue Member

  17. EsQueue writes:

    " The problem is that with moderate and heavy acceleration, there is a jerking feeling. Not
    a smooth acceleration unless I feather it until I get to above 25 and then it is smooth from there. I don't always want to go that fast though. That is the reason why I thought that the arm flexing has to be the cause of this acceleration issue. As you say, welding a gusset may be the solution to this issue without having to redo anything. I can't imagine that 1 1/2" square tubing would have flex issues albeit it is quite thin.
    "

    I got to thinking about my experiences with larger 4 strokes & recall feeling the power pulses under hard acceleration when still in the lower RPM range. Remember, only every other downstroke of the piston is a power stroke and 4 strokes are lower RPM and torquier engines. Is it this or something else? If there is springiness in the curved tongue under power, you might be having a resonance caused by the tension in the tongue building up til it's fully resistant, then losing traction which allows the tension in the sprung tongue to release, followed by loading up again etc. If so, it would be a 'juddering' effect at a lower frequency than the power pulses.
    Someone traveling alongside & behind you could see that, if it is happening.
    These large engines have the power to be geared for speed which means initial acceleration RPM will be low and each powerful stroke will be felt, especially if your centrifugal clutch has a low engagement RPM. Probably nothing more than an irritation. I'm a strong proponent of pushers and want to find out as much as possible about any problems with them & their solutions so please let me know your conclusions.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 4, 2009
  18. EsQueue

    EsQueue Member

    Dennis thanks for that, I tried some minor things and I noticed that stiffening the rear suspension of the bike greatly reduces this jerk. This leads me to believe that the push against the seat-post may be causing a lifting in the bike's suspension. I also found that feathering the throttle eliminates this issue.

    I haven't gotten to the gussets as you suggested earlier but I will and definately give you the results.

    BTW, I picked up a lincoln weld-pak 100 flux-cored welder so there should be less shameful welds. :)
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2009
  19. TREEWK

    TREEWK Member

    Hi, Here Is A Pic Of A Simple Trailer Connector. U Could Use Plastic, Hard Wood, A Short Piece Of Pipe And Weld Ears On It. Telon Block, Etc. Ron
     

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  20. EsQueue

    EsQueue Member

    Fortunately, my hitch is one of the stronger parts of my build. Thanks for that though.
     
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