chrisnbush
Member
It is cold up here in NH and my goal is to ride all year, ice and snow permitting (I have studs but not real confident on them yet).
I developed a heater using a piece of copper pipe, a faucet, a couple of hose barbs and 1/2 " ID silicone and nylon tubing (pics attached).
The 1/2 copper pipe is just elbowed up against the muffler port, held in place with hose clamps, nothing is glued or welded, at least not yet.
I put the faucet on the end of the pipe, the exhaust is fed into the tubing from a hose barb on a copper T before the faucet. I went to this arrangement after my tubing (250 deg max working F deg) was melting. I have the faucet cranked wide open, and still enough exhaust gets routed thru the tubing to keep me toasty. And if it gets REAL cold I could crank down the faucet a little to route more exhaust thru the tubing.
I have a one piece thinsulate jump / worksuit that I route the tubing thru - in on the right side thru the leg zipper left open just a little, up and down over my legs and chest, and out the left side which becomes my exhaust hose.
Amazing how much heat this little motor wastes. Note that I reinforced the end of the tubing that attaches to the pipe with fiberglass screen, then just wrapped twine, and on the very end put furnace rated foil tape - high temp stuff. And since the silicone tubing is expensive (like 3 bucks a foot), I used a 1/2" dual barb splice to continue to the end with nylon tubing which is not heat resistant. I have high temp silicone tubing coming from McMaster Carr - GREAT supply house - check them out.
The only issue I have been having is if I don't make big loops inside the suit I can crimp the hose, which greatly shifts the exhaust to go out the faucet, and I get no heat. Also there is a lot of water in exhaust, after about an hour running (how long it takes me to get to work) the hose is half constricted at the low point in my suit.
Thinking of building a rubber vest out of EDPM with an inlet and outlet port. Also thinking about routing the exhaust first thru the handlebars and putting in hose barbs (3) in the handle bars. One for the suit, and two for my hands - the handlebar metal should heat up enough maybe to keep my hands warm, so I would need only one barb.
Future plans are to get pelletier junctions to mount directly to engine muffler and block, well, maybe on a heat sink first to see how much electricity I can get off this sucker. Also I want to finish the exhaust hose out thru a tub of calcium hydroxide, to make calcium carbonate (i.e. lime) from the CO2 in the exhaust - throw it on my garden.
What a blast - no more accidents PLEASE
PS - By the way, on the hose pic, I wrapped the hose barb splice joint with duct tape. The reason I did this is the brass hose barb connection gets HOT and it was burning my leg a little. Gives you an idea of how much heat "goes out the window"
I developed a heater using a piece of copper pipe, a faucet, a couple of hose barbs and 1/2 " ID silicone and nylon tubing (pics attached).
The 1/2 copper pipe is just elbowed up against the muffler port, held in place with hose clamps, nothing is glued or welded, at least not yet.
I put the faucet on the end of the pipe, the exhaust is fed into the tubing from a hose barb on a copper T before the faucet. I went to this arrangement after my tubing (250 deg max working F deg) was melting. I have the faucet cranked wide open, and still enough exhaust gets routed thru the tubing to keep me toasty. And if it gets REAL cold I could crank down the faucet a little to route more exhaust thru the tubing.
I have a one piece thinsulate jump / worksuit that I route the tubing thru - in on the right side thru the leg zipper left open just a little, up and down over my legs and chest, and out the left side which becomes my exhaust hose.
Amazing how much heat this little motor wastes. Note that I reinforced the end of the tubing that attaches to the pipe with fiberglass screen, then just wrapped twine, and on the very end put furnace rated foil tape - high temp stuff. And since the silicone tubing is expensive (like 3 bucks a foot), I used a 1/2" dual barb splice to continue to the end with nylon tubing which is not heat resistant. I have high temp silicone tubing coming from McMaster Carr - GREAT supply house - check them out.
The only issue I have been having is if I don't make big loops inside the suit I can crimp the hose, which greatly shifts the exhaust to go out the faucet, and I get no heat. Also there is a lot of water in exhaust, after about an hour running (how long it takes me to get to work) the hose is half constricted at the low point in my suit.
Thinking of building a rubber vest out of EDPM with an inlet and outlet port. Also thinking about routing the exhaust first thru the handlebars and putting in hose barbs (3) in the handle bars. One for the suit, and two for my hands - the handlebar metal should heat up enough maybe to keep my hands warm, so I would need only one barb.
Future plans are to get pelletier junctions to mount directly to engine muffler and block, well, maybe on a heat sink first to see how much electricity I can get off this sucker. Also I want to finish the exhaust hose out thru a tub of calcium hydroxide, to make calcium carbonate (i.e. lime) from the CO2 in the exhaust - throw it on my garden.
What a blast - no more accidents PLEASE
PS - By the way, on the hose pic, I wrapped the hose barb splice joint with duct tape. The reason I did this is the brass hose barb connection gets HOT and it was burning my leg a little. Gives you an idea of how much heat "goes out the window"
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