Need a CDI...

You will hear so many ways to wire these things up. The blue yes gives a pulse from the magneto due to the magnet spinning inside it. Unless you either have or have plans to try and hook up lights with the white wire....remove it at the magneto. It is of no use and with removal won't cause problems down the road. How I have my kill switch hooked up on all builds that I have done is to run the wires (mine had 2 long wires) from the kill switch (supplied on switch) down to the CDI. I attach one wire to the blue (hot) and the other to black (Ground). It doesn't make any difference which wire color on the switch goes to what wire color on the CDI. Hooked up this way you are grounding the pluse lead (blue wire) directly to ground, thus cuts off power to the CDI.
 
Got nothing off the magneto...so was able to get some spending money yesterday. Have the money...so am going to replace the units. Should be on the road by this weekend.

Want to thank everyone for spelling out exactly how to wire these devices up. Sure makes a BIG difference when getting them road worthy.
 
Just ordered the CDI & magneto from Kings for $31 US. Should be here by Thursday & should be on the road by Friday evening to try to break in the 1st gallon by Saturday evening...if it's not raining.
 
Correct. The white wire is just raw magneto voltage.
The kits use it for the kill button, but as mentioned you can hook the kill button between the two magneto wires for the same result.

So yes, you can just tape it off, or you can indeed use it to power lights.
The trick is if you draw more than 1/2 an amp there won't be enough voltage to power the CDI to spark and the motor will die.

I haven't made one yet but this should work fine for a constant 6V DC source.

All you need is one 50¢ 10V 500mA diode from Radio Shack and a 6V NiCad battery pack.
You could just 4 C or D batteries in a holder, or an old electric RC car battery pack.

Just put the diode in line with the white wire to the + side of the pack, and ground to the - side.

The single diode acts as a half wave rectifier and turn the AC into pulsed 6V DC.
You could use 4 diodes for a full wave, but using all the AC wave could end up drawing more than 500mA and kill your engine.

In short, whenever the motor is running the battery is charging.
Just hook your 6V lights right up to the battery. They should even work with the motor off until the battery is drained, but otherwise work just dandy even they draw an amp.
The battery will make up the difference, and even when the battery dies, chances are you still won't be able to draw 1/2 an amp with half wave, the lights will just dim.
 
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Got 'er done...

Put the new electrical system put on the bike & went for a 6-7 mile ride this evening. Even the kill switch works like a dream.

The worst part...the bad roads & rain gutters to channel the rain at the intersections. My kidneys feel like George Sr....Muhammad Ali went 30 rounds with me for 10 minute rounds.
 
Very good...what we do to have fun...oh well
Well, for some of us including me, MB's are our only form of practical, cheap, legal, and independet form of transportaion.

So Poobar, did you run the kill button to the CDI and isolate the white magneto wire?

Quick question...
I haven't replaced a magneto, did you have to messing with timimg? or did it just pop back in with guides to set it properly for you?
 
Well, for some of us including me, MB's are our only form of practical, cheap, legal, and independet form of transportaion.

It will be that for me this summer & beyond. For instance...ran to the library (2 miles 1 way) & to see a friend of mine on the other side of town (3-4 miles 1 way). Put about 7-8 miles on it last night.

Eventually...want to put the 4-stroke I used to have on it back on it with a belt drive. That Grubee clutch is a POS & works the opposite way of the 2-stroke & motorcycles. This 2-stroke clutch actually gives me the feel of when I used to ride motorcycles. Except for the speed...feels very close to my 1st motorcycle I ever rode.

So Poobar, did you run the kill button to the CDI and isolate the white magneto wire?

What I did was grab a pair of scissors & cut it off at the solder on the coil. Ended up using the wire to connect the kill switch to the CDI because the included wire was too short to make the connection. Covered it all in electrical tape & as soon as my paycheck comes in...will be getting some shrink wrap & some silicone...along with some cable ties. Money is short right now...so I'm using tape & such to keep stuff in place. Not as nice as I want...but it does work for the short term.

You will see what I did from the CDI from the pix.

Quick question...
I haven't replaced a magneto, did you have to messing with timimg? or did it just pop back in with guides to set it properly for you?

Disconnected the 4 screws...making sure I made a mental note where the black wire hooked to. Actually getting the old coil out of there was harder than I was expecting...due to the magnet. Putting it back in...put my black wire on the correct screw & hand-tightened the first screw a few turns to hold the screw & coil in place. Taking another of the screws...went the opposite corner & started that one. Just like changing the spare on the car...it went into place without a problem.

As for the timing...did nothing with this. Just pulled out the old coil & put in the new one. If I can do it & in under an hour...anyone can do it. Just 4 wires & you're good to go.

The only advice I would have for you is to take it nice & slow. That magnet is a good 1. Make sure you have no electronics on you as well. They might not work after working around that magnet.
 

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Timing is set with a key on the shaft that the magnet is on. The key goes between the crankshaft and magnet. No timing adjustment.
 
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