need more power-

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by FloridaCracker, Jan 28, 2014.

  1. FloridaCracker

    FloridaCracker New Member

    Hey guys, been riding for years..recently decided that my existing kit is no longer acceptable for my needs. gonna be moving were there's hills. Im gonna need reliable power..Im used to friction drive. Cant really get more simple and reliable. Im looking into purchasing a chain drive kit for the mountains. I like to be able to go for long ride's with out having to perform surgery along side the road..I usualy just go beachcruising so I think its gonna be a nice change to ride in the hills.. I have seen a lot of chain drives. not really sure which one is for me..I like riding beachcruiser's for comfort. Long as it mounts up im good..
     

  2. velzie

    velzie Member

    The cheapest and most simple would be to get a larger rear sprocket and get an expansion chamber. The rear sprocket will take from top speed but give you greater ability to climb hills. The expansion chamber is a simple bolt on that increases performance. Look into how header length affects powerband; I believe a longer head pipe will give better low-end, which is what you will likely need for hills.

    Be sure your engine is running efficiently by jetting it properly and cleaning up your ports.

    I apologize if this is too basic, but there is not a lot of information in your post.
     
  3. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    yep, friction drive sometimes just wont cut it.


    you could always try my old system of using 1/2" or 9/16" ID star washers on a shaft, ie...use a roller with a diameter of less than an inch! your tyres will love you for it, and youll accelerate...my husky 25cc used to hold 60kmh very comfortably with 1/2" ID washers... (about 7/8 OD, tangs to the outside, obviously...they stack to form a neat splined shaft thats easily replaced and CHEAP.) still suffer in the wet but. let those lil brushcutter engines REV! dont use kerosene or other strange things as fuel when strapped for cash!

    the generic HT engine...if you took the time to read through most threads, you will find that theres sweet F all difference between different vendors, overall reliability is partially luck - partially skill. there are some that claim "such and such" and "blah de blah" but thats just marketing hype...


    they are the best choice for a kit you can buy and know they will fit without any modifications, just some rather simple twiddling of spanners. maybe some tongue out the side of the mouth just so the missus thinks its hard or something...


    the only choice is the 48 or the 66cc. some say bigger is better, some (like myself) have no desire to try a 66 ever again...

    lets just say.... i dont carry tools when i ride a 48, seem to push home from forgetting to check the tank rather than any major issue, whilst my 66 for the week i tried it, didnt get me to work, or back home ONCE. i am biased :) my opinion doesnt count.

    other choices are using brushcutter/industrial engines either 2 stroke or 4... they dont fit neatly, theyre awkward, they all need these silly wide cranks... unless rack mounted, which makes the bike top heavy and very hard to handle generally. if you have ever used a pannier rack and put 10kg on it, then tried opening a gate while holding the bike, youll know what i mean.

    some may disagree but once again, thats my opinion.

    then you can think about all them extras like the expansion chamber (it ISNT, its a TUNED PIPE, an expansion chamber is simply a muffler of no specific size or length. meh. nomenclature. why worry?) on the twostrokes, etc...
     
  4. jaguar

    jaguar Well-Known Member

    I would get the 66cc, lathe 1mm off the head for higher compression, get a better carburetor, and balance the crank (since the 66cc vibrates more than the 48cc).
    There are other mods beyond that too.
    My 55cc accelerates up hills that it couldnt climb in stock form.
     
  5. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    You are going to need a Sick Bike parts shift kit, then make the modification to the front freewheel system to allow the addition of a low range sprocket to give serious hill climbing power.
     
  6. velzie

    velzie Member

    this is an extreme, high cost and very cool modification. However you will be able to climb almost any hill you encounter.
     
  7. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    I completely disagree: it is not extreme, nor is it high cost, but is most definitely a seriously cool and functional modification.

    If i had things my way, the shift kit would cost $1,500 and be supplied with a billet (reed valve) crankcase; incorporating the shift kit into the crank case design, together with a Japanese style crankshaft, connecting rod, piston and billet 52mm cylinder and cylinder head.
     
  8. max350

    max350 Member

    Or you can build one of these, "Solex"with friction drive :cool:
     

    Attached Files:

    Fabian likes this.
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