New Build For The Wife

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by kerf, Nov 23, 2009.

  1. kerf

    kerf Guest

    Hello MBc's, kerf has made a rare venture outside the Combustion Chamber, to start a new build. About a month ago, my wifes bike was stolen.

    http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=23746

    I'm beginning a replacement build and I wanted to post it here, both to share info with others and to get input from the MBc Team of experts. I'm not going high tech and I'm on a budget with the economy the way it is but I want my lady to have a nice ride. I'll be using a Staton friction drive, made up of parts I have on hand and a HF water pump engine I just bought. I think we'll probably try D i c k s Sporting Goods for a Mongoose full suspension, I think she'll really like that when she tries her first ride. It's gonna take a while to get it together, cause I'm waiting on my HF clutch parts and they are slow.

    I ordered some parts from David, that I didn't have. I needed a 78mm clutch drum as well as a 78mm engine spacer and a twist throttle/ cable. The drive housing was from a TC300 unit, with a 54mm clutch and did require a little mill work. The TC300 has the drive roller bearing retainer snap rings on the inside, next to the roller. The 78mm engine spacer, needs to center on the bearing shoulder, so the snap ring must be on the outside toward the engine and requires a recess cut around the bearing hole. This recess is .125" wide and .040" deep (see IMG 0956) and allows the snap ring to be flush with the housing so it is sandwiched between the housing and spacer (see IMG 0957).

    The engine looks very good except for the air filter/choke unit, which came out of the box broken. It's junk and since the carburetor is a Walbro WYK 119-1 clone, I decided to upgrade to a DDM velocity stack/choke unit and a DDM HP air filter. Looks and works much better (see IMG 0958). My cost on the engine, including tax and any shipping are, $108/engine, $20/two year replacement plan, $33/ air filter. I'll be using a 1 1/4" Staton roller that I have on hand, she had a 1 3/8" on the TLE43 so we'll see how that works out.

    My Staton parts should be here tomorrow and I can get the drive housing together and start looking for a bike. Then we wait about 5 more weeks for a clutch. Oh well, weather stinks anyway.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 23, 2009

  2. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    While your waiting you could always advertise in the local papers(Bicycle WTB) & let potential customers come to you....community notice boards are also very good.
     
  3. kerf

    kerf Guest

    The build continued today with the procurement of the bike (IMG 962) and a box of parts from David. I was going to use the standard Staton U bracket with two 6" extension bars to position the drive roller directly above the rear axle. Problems arose with the rear brake (IMG 963), while the brake had sufficient room to operate, I would have to remove the engine or brake shoes in order to remove the rear wheel. I've decided to control front/back loading using a thrust bar, connecting the drive housing to the rear shock mount. I used this same method on the Snake Eater (IMG 965). I would have had to install struts from the front drive housing mount to the dropout in either case.

    I have two drive housings, one stock, the other shortened and re-bored to use the thrust bar. The forward mounting hole was originally 3/8" but I changed it to 5/8" (IMG 959) to accept rubber vibration dampening bushings (IMG 961). Enlarging the hole would have been simple but I had to change the center as well as the diameter.

    Tomorrow I'll pickup some 1/4" x 1" aluminum flat bar and begin fabing the thrust bar and forward struts. I'm going to remove the fan cover from the engine and take it and the drive housing to the hardware store to select engine mounting bolts. If the bolts are too long, I'll wipe out the flywheel, OUCH.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. moondog

    moondog Member

    Nice ! Thanks for the pictures ! :cool:
     
  5. kerf

    kerf Guest

    I've fabed the drive mounting struts and have the drive unit on the bike (IMG 970). As you can see, I've scrapped the stock Staton U bracket in favor of thrust bars attaching to the rear shock mount and forward struts attaching to the dropouts (IMG 971). The dual tension bars, that I built for a previous bike, use a sliding cam bolt setup.

    Looking at my roller / bearing setup, I've installed a 16ga x 5/8 machine bushing on the inside of the left bearing (IMG 966). This takes the slack out between the roller bearings and sets the bearing shoulder inside the bearing race (IMG 968). When the drum is screwed on, the inner race is clamped between the bushing and the drum hub, controlling roller thrust on the left side bearing. It also brings the drum mounting hub flush with the threads on the roller (IMG 969).

    I also removed the fan housing from the engine and along with the drive housing and engine spacer, set off to select engine mounting bolts. These 6mm bolts must be selected with care, if they are too long, they could contact the flywheel. My choices were 45mm, which engaged about half the fan housing threads or 50mm which protruded a little less than 1/8". While the 50mm didn't contact the flywheel, I found that adding a 6mm lock washer and a flat washer brought them flush with the inside of the fan housing.

    My next step is to replace the handlebars with a 5" riser set, add the center mount kickstand, install a new seat and I may need to replace the twist type shifters. At that point, I'll be sitting and waiting for a clutch rotor.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    What's the width/thickness on the thrust bar, Kerf? Any concern that it may 'bow' some when you're at full throttle?
     
  7. kerf

    kerf Guest

    1" x 1/4" aluminum and no it won't bow as it will be under tension not compression. Bike goes north, drive housing wants to go south.
     
  8. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    Yup - you're right. Pulling the top of the wheel forward would put tension on the straps... for some reason, I was thinking the opposite when I posted... Must have gotten sidetracked with work at work this morning!!!
     
  9. kerf

    kerf Guest

    Well, I'm still waiting on that slow boat from China, with my clutch but I'm pushing the build ahead anyway. Got home from the bike shop yesterday with a box of goodies. The Sunlite Double Kickstand is coming from Florida but I got everything else on my list. I like to use mountain bikes for these things but in order to ride comfortably, quite a few parts have to be replaced.

    The first thing to go is those flat handlebars, replaced with a set of Wald 5" riser MTB bars, which of course required total shift and brake cable replacements.(IMG 972) The twist shifters were replaced with Shimano STX Alivio trigger shifters. The wife always had trouble shifting, these should fix that. Once we had something to hold on to, something from Schwinn to sit on was in order.(IMG 974) The mountain tires were replaced with Kenda Kwest 26 x 1.95 tires with one of the best treads I've found for a friction drive.(IMG 975) I mounted a speedometer that I previously had on one of my bikes, lost the bracket so improvising was in order.(IMG 973) Added the throttle and a mirror so tomorrow we will do some test rides, pedal power of course.(IMG 977)
     

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    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2015
  10. cycledude

    cycledude Member

    btw the clutch bell with the roller you are using in your build, do you have the part numbers? Are they Staton? Will you be using the Staton cluth for the 50cc honda?
    Maybe I should post this query in your thread.
    Done
     
  11. kerf

    kerf Guest

  12. andyszyd

    andyszyd Member

    The 52cc HF pump engine is very powerful, way over listed 1.5 HP. Mine is stock engine without any works, after about 5 hrs pulls 320+ lb load on flat at steady 31 MPH with 1.25 BMP roller. (Calculated RPM about 8400 at 31 MPH)

    It feels like it wants larger roller to cruise easy at 25-30 Mph at RPM midrange. Since BMP does not offer 1 3/8 roller I may go for 1.5 roller.
     
  13. kerf

    kerf Guest

    If you try that let me know how it works. Wife had a 1 3/8" with the TLE43 on the bike that was stolen. That was working good.
     
  14. andyszyd

    andyszyd Member

    1 3/8 " should be better than 1.25 for the 52cc engine.

    I let you know how 1.5 will do when I get it.
     
  15. kerf

    kerf Guest

    I've got a 1 1/2" also but was worried about the bottom end. I was originally running the 1 1/4" on the TLE43 but felt it was too low so I switched to the 1 3/8". After I went chain drive, the little lady inherited my drive unit.
     
  16. kerf

    kerf Guest

    Kerf's back. I ordered the clutch for my wife's bike on Nov. 18, it just arrived this afternoon. When Harbor Freight says 6-8 weeks, believe it. I ordered an extra clutch but what I got was 4 complete clutches. I don't know if it was my bad or they messed up but for $9, who cares. Quick as I start putting her together, I'll post more pictures and finish my thread.
     
  17. arceeguy

    arceeguy Active Member

    I have had good luck using the HFT pump engine on pocket bikes, they are of decent quality and have good power. Your project has me thinking of building a friction drive bike. BMP kit with a HFT pump engine, or maybe even a "cag" pocket bike engine. (reed induction, dellorto knock off carb) Since Happy Times are quickly becoming a thing of the past, it is time to look into other ways of powering my bikes!
     
  18. kerf

    kerf Guest

    I noticed that these clutch shoes are somewhat narrow. Have you had any slippage issues?
     
  19. arceeguy

    arceeguy Active Member

    I've always just re-used the clutch shoes from the old blown engine. For some reason, the clutches are pretty durable but the engines don't like to have the tar revved out of them for hours on end. :D (overall, low stress on the clutch I suppose)

    One thing for sure is that the HFT clone engine is better than the clone engine supplied with the "APC" pocket bikes. (but the APC's had an electric starter/generator)
     
  20. kerf

    kerf Guest

    Well, it's together, couple of turns on the HS jet and we were off down the street. Clutch feels very good and it's quiet, engine is also pretty quiet. From my limited ride on a raw engine, seems like there's good power. It's 24 bloom'n degrees here for a high, riding isn't as much fun as it was last summer. Don't know when I'll test ride again but I will post pictures.
     
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