New Expansion Chamber Theory

  • Thread starter Deleted member 12676
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The wait is over. The next generation pipe is here now.
What are you waiting for?
 
I just measured the sheet metal I used to make mine and it is .023" which is fairly thick and even though I have strong hands I'm just able to bend it with my hands. I'd like to hear what thickness others have used.
 
On the link I posted, they suggest the following for thickness:

Start working

The first thing you need to do is buy some steel (I don't recommend using stainless steel, because it cracks more easily). I think 0,7 mm thick sheet-metal is a good choice. It is light and strong enough. You can use 1 mm thick metal as well, but than your chambers will be quit heavy and it's harder to work with thicker metal.
 
As an update I would like to add that my page on expansion chamber theory has the latest insights as to how a chamber works and why my design of extended baffle works well to broaden the powerband. Please look for that page after clicking on my signature link to go to my web site.
 
I bought 18 gauge. But haven't made it yet. And Jag keeps coming up with new cool ideas. Jaguar, I like ur thinking. I don't quite enjoy how much people try and shut down new stuff because it's new and they don't 'understand' the concepts (or memorized the phrases from their reference books). I will have to check out ur new model for pipe design -- sounds intriguing, as I often come up with stuff I wish I could try. Keep it up.
 
The latest design that I posted is very good. I will be testing another design that minimizes the return baffle wave as much as possible for the maximum torque increase. I don't know if I will post the design though because I may have found someone to make the pipes so I can sell them. Send me a message with your email if interested in buying one.
 
I was wondering if a pressure transducer with a voltmeter would be beneficial when tuning a torque pipe to measure the baffle waves. An oscilloscope would be better, but who's got that kind of cash.

I am sure it would be easy just to test the bike with the pipe on and make your adjustments.

Found a couple YouTube videos on how to make a low cost pressure transducer that could be connected to a voltmeter or oscilloscope:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFNeVTirBTI
*Click on the Show more and a detailed list of parts is listed, so you don't have to stop the video or buy any book or CD*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWaXeOyiYX8

Would be a cool accessory for the tool box for automotive and motorcycle projects.

Thought I'd get throw a post out there to see if anybody had any input.

Chris
AKA: BigBlue
 
That is the ultimate weapon for making sure a pipe is in tune with the porting. What is hard is after taking a photo of the waveform you need to put the graph lines on it that matches crank rotation, but how to know where exactly on the graph is Exhaust Opening? Obviously it is somewhere near the beginning rise of the exhaust pulse, but the "3rd wave" interferes with its shape with some port timings. (read my writeup on my site to know about that wave).
The first video lists gas tank low pressure transducers that can be used but then vaguely says something about how PVC pipe and a hose is needed. It is unknown whether it can withstand the high exhaust temperatures. I doubt it.
The second video says the transducers are for a max of 250psi and 500psi, both being very much higher than what is needed in this case. But if they maintain good sensitivity from 0-10psi then they'd still be useful.
 
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