New Guy with many questions

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by DMichael, Jul 20, 2008.

  1. DMichael

    DMichael New Member

    Hi to all,

    My name is David Michael, and I live in Wichita Ks. Just last week I purchased a 2008 Black Whizzer, drove it home from the shop and have been tinkering with it ever since. I haven't been able to get a shop manual yet but hope to soon but I have been following this forum for awhile and benefited from all of your postings. Thank you all very much!!

    Since getting it home I have been having carburetor problems, i.e., fuel running from the float overflow tube, which turned out to be a bad float. Now I am trying to get the carburetor adjusted properly.... When cold it starts good and runs great, but after it gets hot (outside temp today is 96F) and I shut it off its hard to start and runs poorly for about a minute or two and then is OK, except it has a stumble just off idle. Is this the norm for the motor??

    Next question.... My front forks are stiff, and don't seem to have oil in them they don't have any restriction when going from the compressing to full extension, and make a banging noise when I hit a sharp bump, they are not bottoming out, the noise is when they extend. Is this normal??

    Wow!!! Whizzers are great fun....


  2. KilroyCD

    KilroyCD Active Member

    First, welcome to MBc, David! Even though I have a Whizzer (a 2005 NE5), I'm not the most knowlegeable on carbs, so I'll let one of the Whizzer gurus answer that question. As to the forks, what you are experiencing is not the norm. It should have dampening, and not make any strange noises. I've never had the need to service my forks yet, so maybe Motorbike Mike, Quenton or Bill Green can tell you what you need to do. I do have the service manual, so I can scan the page on forks and send it to you as a .pdf file if you wish. Just let me know.
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2008
  3. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi David,
    All Whizzer forks are not the same. They are slightly different from the 1999 Classic to the later models. The forks should contain 3.5 to 4 oz of oil in each side. I use hydraulic jack oil. Also make sure all the screws holding the tubes into the yoke are tight.
    Make sure float level in carburetor is set correctly if the floats have been exchanged or repaired. The level is 22 MM on the 22 MM carburetor. Check head bolts to make sure they are correct [175" pounds for the 8 MM and 210" pounds for the 10 MM bolts] and the head gasket isn't leaking, the 2008 will most likely have the copper head gasket. If the motor isn't broke in and the rings haven't seated yet, then the motor may be harder to start when hot. Take a look at the spark plug to make sure it isn't white or light gray. Most new Whizzers will run better and smoother after the first 100 miles, and continue to improve until approx. 500 miles [approx break-in period on many motors]. I would suggest changing oil at 50 miles, and again at 100 miles to remove any metal particles collected during the break-in process.
    Best place to set idle mixture screw on the later models carburetors is 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns out. You might also want to lower the needle jet one notch, [second groove from the top] to see if the stumble is corrected. If the idel mixture screw is way off it can also make the motor hesitate when the throttle is advanced.

    Have fun,
    Whizzer OuterBanks LTD
    A North Carolina Corporation
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2008
  4. DMichael

    DMichael New Member

    Thank you for the help!!

    KilroyCD, I may take you up on the kind offer to send the .pdf, but first I am going to let the Dealer have a crack at it. I wasn't sure if it was normal for the forks to act this way, but today the dealer was open and I sat on some 2007 models and there forks work the way I thought they should, so I will heading to the dealer tomorrow with my Whizzer. Mine has no rebound dampening to the forks, make for a very poor ride.

    How would you check the fluid level in your forks??

    Quention, thanks for your help as always, I put the needle two notches from the top as you recommended, the head shows no sign of leakage, my idle mixture is set at aprox 1 1/2 turn out. I changed the spark plug it had quite a bit of carbon build-up on it, started it up and it run great, took it for a spin and most of the stumble is gone when accelerating from idle. When I shut it down and try starting it within a minute or two it will start right up, but if I let is set for longer it will not start without a lot of pushing... it seems to be flooding out, I think the heat is getting to the carburator... I have all the correct spacers and gaskets installed, could this just be break-in problems??

    When I change the float I set it at 22mm as you recommended, and I also noticed the main jet is #88.

    Again, thanks for the help this forum is the best.

  5. KilroyCD

    KilroyCD Active Member

    Apparently, the way to check the oil level in the forks is to drain it. The manual states: "Drain the oil from the fork leg. Invert it and pour oil into a drain pan." It doesn't mention anything about a way to check the oil level visually.
  6. check fork oil

    Hi I think you could dip a welding rod, or straightened coat hanger down the hole to use as a dip-stick. Tho you would need to know what the correct measurement should be.