dodge dude94
Member
Hey everyone, I just recently finshed up the install of a Grubee GT5 in my Huffy cruiser and I have a few questions for y'all.
Now, I am sure most of these have been beaten into the ground, and I am sure I can search, but I have a feeling that there is some more updated info now then there was when the original posts were made.
Now, I have a mostly automotive backround, so forgive me if my terminology is incorrect here.
First problems:
Gas tank is leaking by petcock.
I've read stuff on here about replacing the valve with an aftermarket unit from SBP and using teflon or plumber's tape.
Can I get by with using plumbers tape on the stock unit? Or would it still leak?
Bogging going up hill.
Bogs like crazy up hill. I have to close the choke a little bit to get up the hill and get the revs up, then I can open it.
I do have some idle problems, but that is my fault.
Any suggestions?
Factory chain idler.
When I first installed the factory idler, the bottom chain hit and slammed the idler into the rear wheel. Thank God for heavy cruiser wheels.
Took it off, shortened the chain, ended up breaking chain in 2 places, and bending 5 links, re-built the chain, and re-installed the factory idler (busted pulley and all). When I installed it the second time, I flipped the orientation around, with the "long side" inward on the tire side. Works like it should even though the pulley is shot. Gotta get a new one.
Now for performance.
I love speed. I love horsepower.
I need both.
I am thinking about replacing my stock, crappy filter and housing with one of the S&B round air cleaners from SBP. My only real concerns are will it fit? And will I lose anymore low end? I know open-element air cleaners only really add power in mid- and top end-range. But I figure anything is better than the factory junk. I would rather have the big filter since it will allow more air in than the lo-profile cleaner.
What will happen if I re-jet the carb and move the pacman clip lower in the needle to richen up the fuel mix? Is that even possible with the CNS EPA carb?
Also, is there any way to advance the spark timing on these engines? Or is it fixed as I am assuming? I know I can get a stronger spark by using a better spark plug, shorter wire, and a Magnacor wire, but I want an ignition advance.
On the topic of spark advance. When I took the head off to inspect it prior to installation, I noted the factory plug is not all the way into the head; there is more thread space than there is spark plug. If that makes any sense.
I know a lot of guys here run the NGK BP"X"HIX Iridium plugs. Are these projected nose plugs or recessed? Do these actually screw farther into the combustion chamber? Mine is an anglefire head, so I am not TOO worried about contact, but I suppose it will be an issue if I over-rev the engine.
Also, I had been looking at the plugs on SBP, and most of them explain the different heat-ranges for different ambient temperatures. Being in Texas, most temperatures I would be riding at would be 70-100*. Could I run a "hot" plug and not blow anything up? Maybe get a spark advance out of it? I know how the hotter the plug the more advance it can give depending on the application.
Or would a cold plug give me more power in this temperature range?
What, if any, mods can I do to improve low-end and mid-range without sacrificing speed? I know gears will make a HUGE improvement for low-end. But I don't want to re-gear and lose top-end speed. I've heard a tuned pipe will make a big improvement. What else?
I am open to any suggestions, guys.
Thanks everyone.
Now, I am sure most of these have been beaten into the ground, and I am sure I can search, but I have a feeling that there is some more updated info now then there was when the original posts were made.
Now, I have a mostly automotive backround, so forgive me if my terminology is incorrect here.
First problems:
Gas tank is leaking by petcock.
I've read stuff on here about replacing the valve with an aftermarket unit from SBP and using teflon or plumber's tape.
Can I get by with using plumbers tape on the stock unit? Or would it still leak?
Bogging going up hill.
Bogs like crazy up hill. I have to close the choke a little bit to get up the hill and get the revs up, then I can open it.
I do have some idle problems, but that is my fault.
Any suggestions?
Factory chain idler.
When I first installed the factory idler, the bottom chain hit and slammed the idler into the rear wheel. Thank God for heavy cruiser wheels.
Took it off, shortened the chain, ended up breaking chain in 2 places, and bending 5 links, re-built the chain, and re-installed the factory idler (busted pulley and all). When I installed it the second time, I flipped the orientation around, with the "long side" inward on the tire side. Works like it should even though the pulley is shot. Gotta get a new one.
Now for performance.
I love speed. I love horsepower.
I need both.
I am thinking about replacing my stock, crappy filter and housing with one of the S&B round air cleaners from SBP. My only real concerns are will it fit? And will I lose anymore low end? I know open-element air cleaners only really add power in mid- and top end-range. But I figure anything is better than the factory junk. I would rather have the big filter since it will allow more air in than the lo-profile cleaner.
What will happen if I re-jet the carb and move the pacman clip lower in the needle to richen up the fuel mix? Is that even possible with the CNS EPA carb?
Also, is there any way to advance the spark timing on these engines? Or is it fixed as I am assuming? I know I can get a stronger spark by using a better spark plug, shorter wire, and a Magnacor wire, but I want an ignition advance.
On the topic of spark advance. When I took the head off to inspect it prior to installation, I noted the factory plug is not all the way into the head; there is more thread space than there is spark plug. If that makes any sense.
I know a lot of guys here run the NGK BP"X"HIX Iridium plugs. Are these projected nose plugs or recessed? Do these actually screw farther into the combustion chamber? Mine is an anglefire head, so I am not TOO worried about contact, but I suppose it will be an issue if I over-rev the engine.
Also, I had been looking at the plugs on SBP, and most of them explain the different heat-ranges for different ambient temperatures. Being in Texas, most temperatures I would be riding at would be 70-100*. Could I run a "hot" plug and not blow anything up? Maybe get a spark advance out of it? I know how the hotter the plug the more advance it can give depending on the application.
Or would a cold plug give me more power in this temperature range?
What, if any, mods can I do to improve low-end and mid-range without sacrificing speed? I know gears will make a HUGE improvement for low-end. But I don't want to re-gear and lose top-end speed. I've heard a tuned pipe will make a big improvement. What else?
I am open to any suggestions, guys.
Thanks everyone.
