New in northern california

Check out this thread, it helped me out:
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?34942-What-EVERY-NOOB-needs-to-read

There's a lot you should do before installing the new motor. Not mentioned in above thread is removing loose metal from the gas tank by putting a bike chain in it and shaking vigorously/rinsing until all the flaky metal inside is loosened. This prevents loose flakes of debris from the new tank from getting into the carb and causing problems. Getting an inline fuel filter is a must as well
 
good link thanks. I am not sure yet if i'm using the stock tank. I am trying to find a rack mounted tank, preferably that mounts under a rack so I can still use the top to bungee stuff down. I see BGF has a 2.5 liter tank without the rack but its a mystery as to what rack to get for that to fit. A search here turns up nothing but old dead links, Guess Ill start a new thread in the appropriate section for help.
 
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The seat post angle is perfect for a 90° back mount, just make your front mount adapt, SBP has front mounts with spacers and a Z plate that works with most any frame like that and here is an example of what is in the bike station now.

First off I throw the cast mounts that come on the engine in the trash and use the nice steel ones in the kit, and then make sure I get the back of the engine at a direct 90 to the seat post.

DbackOutlookMount1.jpg


Note that little bit of white is a bike sticker not some cush material, I do metal to metal mounts only as it should be.

Regular washer, lock washer, and nylon locking nut with a drop of blue LokTight.

Then I find a muffle clamp the exact size of the front tube, 1.5" (44mm) for this D-back.

DbackOutlookMount2.jpg


Any motor mount plate will work but I like the SBP parts Z mount, you can orient it any of 4 ways and cupped in above the mount holes so it rests right above the water bottle nub worked perfect on this bike.

DbackOutlookMount3.jpg


The SBP HD allen bolts with washer, lock washer and a drop of blue lokTight on them and then a couple drops of blue on the muffler clamps nuts and you have a bulletproof mount because the bottom line is if you can hold your engine head with one hand and your top bar with the other and push/pull it as hard as you can and it moves at all it ain't right.

I'd bet I could whack this thing with a sledge hammer and the engine cast would break before those mount got loose, just the way I like it ;-}

Don't forget what you will want to with your handlebar controls, really, I just posted a long thing on that here you might want to read and welcome to the forum and MB's.
 
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I got the kit today and all looks good except can anyone tell me if its normal for the drive gear/shaft to have play in it? I can actually hear the sloppiness (clunking) when I just move it like picking it up off the table. Need to know asap, I'm not installing/running the motor until i get the sbp shift kit.
 
Well, mine is installed and i don't remember noticing that.
I did notice some things on mine though that made me wonder.

I did the pre-inspection, removing covers, adjusting the clutch plate, and turning things.
Once i got the drive to spin, it was stuck!
I noticed my entire drive assembly was not "true".
It seemed to move when rotated, not CRAZY, but noticable.
That transferred to a slight drive gear wobble.
I don't remember if it "clunked"...
Since there was nothing I could do about it, i ran it.

I'm guessing these engines aren't very precise or "machined".
I am reading about people cleaning up the cylinder ports due to crappy casting.
I noticed mine had some ugly crapola in there too, but i ran it.

So far so so good.
I have been removing the clutch cover and lubricating the gears lightly.
I noticed some wear in the gears already, I'll keep on it.
Other than that, i keep it cleaned up and tightened after each ride.
I ordered an expansion chamber with muffler from bikeberry yesterday for $44 delivered.
Hopefully it's here for the weekend.

This motor seems to be pretty "rock-ish", bullet-proof.
I have had Zenoah motor's that were ported with the Walbro carb's, and they were great.
However they were finicky, and needed to be tweaked constantly.
This motor, so far, has been a keeper.
I like the simplicity and no fuss.

I'm curious to hear what other, more experienced MBer's will say...
I'll keep you posted on the pipe...

What color/combo motor did you get?
I'll be ordering a "back-up" kit from that place this weekend.
I figure the box was small enough to fit under the bed..
Who knows, I might do another one.
Too much fun.
 
I got the black 66cc. I notice this play goes away when I push the clutch in with my thumb. I'm just afraid its going to vibrate like crazy when going down the road.Im probably a good week from actually firing it up.
Still waiting on 1 or 2 items on ebay before i got the dough for the shift kit.
I'm hoping someone chimes in and tells me this play in that gear is normal, It looks like engines online shop wont take 1 back after its been installed and run?
 
I'm attempting to pull the cover off the clutch, seems to be stuck from the paint. I am betting the clutch needs an adjustment like it has to much freeplay.
 
Well I didn't break the seal on the clutch cover incase I need to return this thing. Another problem with it has popped up. I noticed one of the clutch cover screws was not very tight when I removed it, well i put them all back in and that one screw would not tighten so looks like it came to me with stripped threads in the casing.
This isn't looking good at all. I know I can probably get a oversized screw for that 1 bolt but what about the other problem?
I'm going to wait until tomorrow but looks like im going to rma this, they assembled it and passed it with a stripped bolt hole, and I cant find 1 post that says its normal to have that gear moving around, I wonder what else is wrong with it?
 
I'm going to wait until tomorrow but looks like im going to rma this, they assembled it and passed it with a stripped bolt hole, and I cant find 1 post that says its normal to have that gear moving around, I wonder what else is wrong with it?
Definitely RMA it back but just for giggles and grins let's see if this hunch is correct.

Many E-bay and even web site sellers have no service or repair department and can't return anything to China or get any more of those engines in the US legally so they insist it is pretty much 'New in the box' condition when they get it so they can just put it back in stock to sell broken again in the hopes someone will find out too late to return it and they are rid of it.

Chances are the 'new' kit you got was a return, maybe one of many as that is more likely than it came from the factory that way. Then again

I propose you just write something in felt pen on the inside of the clutch cover like:

This is a returned bad engine.
If you bought it new contact me.
(your e-mail address)

If my hunch is correct the more inventory the seller moves as time goes by the better the change you will get a return and this would be a fun easy to see don't you think?
 
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Unfortunately I read there return policy and I have to pay return shipping.
I really don't want to pay an extra $20 or whatever to ship it back. Gears on the other side appear to have a little slop in them so I am thinking its not going to be noticeable when I get the motor running.
Ill just figure out what to do with the stripped thread, thinking I can just locktite a stud that should go in deeper where there are probably good threads and just use a nut to tighten that one.
 
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