New member, 1st build in Boston- problems problems

[Rhino A]

Hello all, my name is Ryan located here in Boston MA.

I have been working hard on my MB for the past couple weeks now, mainly weekends as I bought the bike to commute to work. Where to start, first issue on the build was the chain tensioner. I have read all about the related problems on this forum, so after fixing the rear wheel damage due to it and truing it up I opted for no chain tensioner, which seemed to be a better choice and shortening up the pedal side chain a bit. Now the engine side chain is driving me nuts. Its nice and taught, not too tight though, but seems not to be running true enough to the wheel sprocket. Basically the chain will either get pulled off the wheel sprocket or more recently come off the engine sprocket, finally it broke at a link. I need to pick up some #41 chain for a better fit/ more beefy chain. Basically I've gotten to the point where I don't know how much more to do on my own, I spend hours fine tuning and working on it and I just want the **** chain to stay on so I can move to tuning up the carb and throttle, which are later problems to deal with. I installed the rear wheel sprocket- rubber gasket to spokes to rubber gasket, to try and get it out from the wheel a bit more: one nice thing is I'm not getting any chain rub on the tire. How true does the chain need to be running from the engine to the wheel? Im fairly certain perfection cannot be achieved by the way the engine sits on the bike. Any help is greatly appreciated! PS- any one know where the MA shops are for help, near Boston? My bike is too motored for bike stores to touch it and not motored enough for motorcycle stores to "waste their time".
Thanks again and its great to be a new member of this forum!

 

[Al.Fisherman]

I Ryan, I'm a Bostonian myself...many years ago (Fuller St, Brookline). How I correct the problem might not be what others use, but it works for me. I think we answered the question already....in this thread...
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=33357

 

[BoltsMissing]

Ok, alot of good suggestions, but here'smy version.

make sure the engine is mounted good and proper first.

Put the rear wheel back on with the engine sprocket.
A tip: Before I place the rubbers onto the wheel/spokes, I smear it plentifull with rubber grease. Thread the bolts through and tighten up every 2nd bolt till it just takes up the slack. So by the time you back to the first bolt, it will be loose again.
Along the way, with the help of the rubber grease it can be centred and all sorted.

Put the kit's chain tensionor on, but it is highly reccomended you get rid of the china nuts,bolts and washers. Get quality in that area at least. You'll keep the skin on ya knuckles and save on band-aids!


When the tensioner is on, put on the chain.
Look for the lob-sidedness from the engine to the rear wheel, and with a long monkey wrench, twist the chain tensioner so it lines up!
That's right, twist it a bit.
It has worked ok on some frames, not on others, but try it out.

If you could show a pic of the bike, many of us will be able to tell if that option can be done before you do anything first

All the Best
Bolts.

 

[Rhino A]

Thanks guys for the quick responses, a lot of very helpful tips here. I re-attached the hub sprocket with a lil grease and double checked to make sure it was centered, I was able to have my manufacturer warranty me some heavy duty 415 chain so I am waiting for that in the mail, he said the stock china chain is weak and known to jump side to side. Fisherman: glad to know there are motorbikes in Boston, I think I've spotted 2 since taking up an interest in them, and thanks for the link to the other thread, most of what I've read is leading me to believe I might not have the engine as centered as I thought, and I should make it known I custom made a U-bolt mount for the engine. I'll be sure to take pics and post them up as soon as I can. I have read that it is almost required to twist the chain tensioner to get it to run true with the chain, but after seeing what it could do in the spokes at low speeds I'm thinking I'd rather ride without it. Thanks and again I'll get some pics up here so all can get some visuals going.
Best,
Ryan

 

[rustycase]

Good to hear it's all coming together!
rc

 

[Rhino A]

Just a quick update on my post, I ordered a manic mechanic hub adapter and 40 tooth sprocket, and centered the engine much better now, thanks again for the quick responses. I'm hoping the new gear will make for a much more stable setup, and I like the idea of hooking up to the hub instead of the spokes. Been a busy past few weeks my apologies for not updating on the fixes sooner. Be sure to let you all know how the ride comes together this weekend and again thanks for the help- glad to be a member of the forum.

 

[Big Red]

Rhino A,
The tensionor is also a chain guide. It helps the chain hit the sprocket right and you can adjust the chain tension correctly. I always leave my chain just a little loose to help with sprocket wobble, It's never perfect. also, along with the twist in the bracket, You can bend it in or out to better line up the engine/sprocket connection. But only a little or you'll havs the roller at an angle and the chain wont roll flat on it.
Thanks,
Big Red.

 

[Rhino A]

That's a good point on the tensioner, I have read a lot about them on the forum, aside from bending it etc to properly align, do you think its almost necessary to replace the kits tensioner or at least drill a hole through the chain stay as recommended by others to ensure it wont rotate on the chain stay and pull into the wheel? I know when I clamped the weak tensioner that came with the engine kit as tight as possible it still pulled in from the engine torque- I can see where bending it would help this though

 

[Big Red]

Chain tensioner.

Hey Rhino A,
Some frames are thinner at the tensioner connect point which makes it almost impossible to get the stock assembly tight enough. What I do is throw the smaller curved peice in my junk box, take a FLAT peice of good steel, Cut it to size, Drill holes to fit, and clamp it tight. The original peice has a big curve in it and wont allow it to fit tight on some frames. But just to let you know, I'm not the smartest dude in the world so take my advise or not at yer own risk. I will say that this has worked for me on a lot of my builds and altogether I've built about 40 M.B.s
Thanks,
Big Red.

 

[Rhino A]

Thanks for the advice Big Red, I'll take it from any one with that much experience, I had an hour to work on the bike last night, mainly putting the 415 chain on and prepping stuff for the weekend, and I believe I've found the reason for my chain constantly derailing. I don't know how my eyes missed this before but the chain is pulling out away from the engine sprocket just a bit to the rear sprocket, IE: the Rear sprocket is too far away from the spokes/ hub. I mounted it sandwich style with rubber on both sides of the spokes but it seems that's not getting a straight enough action for the chain. As I mentioned I do have a manic mechanic hub adapter coming in the mail which should make for easy adjustments but I'm eager to work with the rag joint this weekend. Now I'm thinking a proper re alignment of the motor and getting that rear sprocket closer to the spokes will do the trick, only problem is a chain rub on the tire seems imminent. Is that a common thing? Am I going about this properly?
Thanks
-Ryan