New Staton axle mounted kits
- Thread starter mifletz
- Start date
Instructions for the Staton-Inc. Axle mounted Gear and Chain Drive kit.
Read the complete instruction over twice. Make or highlight any thing you do not understand or have questions about, then call or email us before you start the install.
The zip lock bag has several very small parts. Open on a clean surface so you do not loose any of the parts.
Save this copy as it has notes about your custom made gear box, clutch drum, gears, shaft, grease, Gear oil, V groove, notches, location pins, NPT plugs and other special notes that you may need in the future.
Scan this and your invoice into your PC as a file so you can all ways find this information.
This kit will fit drop out width of _____ Best for bikes that have a 7 or 8 speed freewheel.
Look at the two sets (10 + detailed pictures) of mounting pictures on the web site. All the engines mount the same, so look at all of them to get more information before you start.
After you get your wheel re laced into the Staton Custom hub with the Left Hand threads on the left side and right hand threads on the right side or you have bought a New wheel your ready to start.
Place the Axle mount Spacer on the left side of the axle, leave the 12 mm snap ring on.
Place the 2” x 3” x 7” long Angle bracket with the 10 mm hole on the axle, then slide the wheel with the left hand freewheel sprocket and the larger #25 or #35 sprocket in to your frame.
Be sure and snug up the right side first, this will help move the left side into position. Check and make sure your wheel is where it should be. Place the angle bracket to a Horizontal position, then tighten the 10 mm flange nut and the 10 mm x 1.0 hex nut and lock the two nuts together.
Now would be a good place to test ride the bike to make sure everything is where you want it before you install the axle brace or drill any holes in to the angle bracket.
Once your wheel is in place make the frame with a marker. You can turn the angle bracket to best suit your needs and the type of engine you have. If using the Robin Subaru EH025 or EH035 you can go up to 30 degrees.
Instructions for the Axle mounted Gear and Chain Drive kit. Page 2.
Try to keep the fuel tank as level as possible so when you check or change oil it easy to make sure you have the correct amount. If you want or need the engine tilted you can all ways place the rear wheel on a step or block of wood to lever out the engine so you can get a good reading on the oil level.
A Honda GX25 or GX35 can run at any angle, but you still need the fuel tank level so you can check the oil level correctly and fill the tank.
If you are using a Two Cycle or Two Stroke Engine it does not matter as to the angle. Just be sure you can fill the tank with the correct two Cycle mix ratio for your engine.
Try to pick up one or more holes in the frame to support the angle bracket. This will help keep the bracket in place and from turning. Most bike frames will have two holes that are
drilled and tapped with a 5 mm x .80 thread hole. I would drill out to a 6 mm for extra strength. You may need 5 mm or 6 mm bolts, flat washer and nylock nuts that are not included with the kit. Pick up both bolt holes if possible.
Angle Bracket Description: 2” x 3” x 3/16” x 7” long. Black - Aluminum or Steel - Zinc.
The Angle bracket should be perpendicular to the sprocket. When you install the brace, be sure and do not bend the angle bracket to match your frame.
Angle Brace Description: (¼” x ¾” or 1” x 6.25” or 7” long aluminum flat bar brace with the two ¼” holes drilled in it and a machined slot for the hose clamp.
If needed bend the brace (flat bar) slightly to match the frame. Make sure that the brace is nice and tight up against the frame as it’s purpose is to keep the angle bracket - engine and gear box from trying to rotate clock wise under power.
Keep the end of the brace about ½” away from the machined slots. This will allow more space for the bolts to move up and down in the slots in order to adjust the chain. Once the brace is placed where you want it, use a 6mm or ¼” drill bit to mark and drill thru the 3/16” bracket. Please the flat washers on the outside of the frame. Make sure the bolts do not extend too far as they will hit the freewheel sprocket or the nuts that hold the sprocket onto the freewheel. In most cases you will not use flat washer on the bolt that is closest to the axle as it would make the nylock nut stick out too far and hit the nylock nut on the freewheel.
Instructions for the Axle mounted Gear and Chain Drive kit. Page 3.
In most cases the other bolt can be longer and you can use a flat washer, then the nylock nut. Then install the hose clamp as shown.
Spin the wheel and make sure none of the parts touch each other and that you have the wheel and brakes installed correctly.
The Angle BRACE should help hold the Angle Bracket in place in both directions.
Once the wheel and angle bracket in comply installed. Install the Extra 10 mm x 1.0 hex nut with a 17 mm wrench. This is a safety to make sure the 10mm x 1.0 flange nut that uses a 15 mm wrench does not come loose.
Now test ride the bike again without the engine - gear box. Test the gear shifting, brakes, wheel alignment and re check for any loose nuts or bolts and that nothing is make contact that should not.
Install the chain using the master link or connecting link to attach the two ends of the chain together. Install the master link to the inside, closest to the wheel. A #25 master link as very small parts so be sure and do not loose them.
If you have a Four Cycle engine be sure and add the correct amount of oil as per the engine manual. You can also add some gas or two cycle mix depending on the engine you have.
Hold the gear box - engine in the upper part of the slot, then place chain over both sprocket and allow the gear box to lower. This will take the slack out of the chain if your chain was per cut. If not you will have to cut you own chain, use the highest position in the slot as possible. Then is the chain stretches you can lower the gear box to take the slack our of the chain. You do not want the chain too tight. You should be able to press in down about 1/16” of a inch in the center of the two sprocket. The Angle bracket should self align the chain. If not use a 5/8” snap ring, 14 or 18 gage machined flat washers to move the sprocket on the shaft to match the sprocket on the wheel. Use a flat bar or laser to align the two sprockets.
Install the remote stop - kill switch. The correct ends will be in with the switch, so you will have to cut or strip back 3/8” - ½” of outer coating, then crimp the connector on the wire.
Instructions for the Axle mounted Gear and Chain Drive kit. Page 4.
Use the Black nylon ties to hold the throttle cable and wire to the frame. Be sure and do NOT hold the throttle cable too tight to the frame. It should be able to move freely.
This will help the cable to return to a idle when you release the lever or twist grip.
Test the throttle back and forth without the engine running and make sure it returns to the idle position before starting.
Test the stop - kill switch before riding. If you switch does not work, Do NOT ride the bike until it has been replaced. If you throttle would happen to stick you need a way to stop the engine without having to rely on the bikes brakes to stop it.
Test ride the bike first without the engine started. Test the brakes and the gear shifting. Test again to make sure the engine kit is mounted correctly and nothing is contacting any thing. If the nuts or bolts are too close, use a flat washer by the head of the bolt or you may have to file them or use a different type of bolt and nut that is not included in the kit.
Test ride in a closed area, not in the street with traffic. Test ride at a slow place, re test the switch to make sure it stops the engine.
Make sure the throttle is in the slow position, start the engine, test the stop switch to make sure it works, make sure it is placed where you do not have to move your hand to stop the engine. Do not ride if the stop switch is broke or missing. Make sure your hands and clothing are not in the way of moving parts. Wear eye protection then, lift the rear wheel and slowly increase the throttle and check the alignment of the chain. If out of align, stop the engine and re adjust. Test ride slow in a closed area, not in the street. Slowly increase the speed if everything is in alignment. Most of the engines will gain about 27% more power after they are broke in. Also, keep in mind that the chain may stretch. You will have to adjust the chain at least once in most cases. Check the complete bike and engine kit before each ride.
The clutch engaging noise is normal and nothing to worry about. As you increase your speed the noise will stop. It is best when starting out that you pedal the bike 3-5 turns and help get moving. The larger the drive sprocket on the gear box the longer the “clutch noise” may sound. The gear box will also become smoother as time goes by after it “breaks in”.
Instructions for the Axle mounted Gear and Chain Drive kit. Page 5.
Do not let the bike fall over or it could damage the starter & or engine.
Always look and feel for any loose or missing bolts, chain tension, master link, miss alignment, check tire pressure & make sure you have good tread before riding, make sure your brakes are in good working condition, make sure the remote stop switch works at all times. Wear all safety gear & bright colored flag so others will see you.
Ride at a slow safe speed. Obey all Local, City and state laws. Ride at your our Risk. Do not ride fast or at night. Be sure and look at the web site for close up pictures.
This is a kit for the “Do It Your Selfer”.
The quality of this project depends on you. If you are not skilled, seek out professional help.
DO NOT Attempt To Install. Your safety comes FIRST.
Staton-Inc. Phone & Fax: 1-405-605-3765
3310 S. Brunson St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73119 USA
Web address: www.staton-inc.com E-mail us at: sales@staton-inc.com.
Read the complete instruction over twice. Make or highlight any thing you do not understand or have questions about, then call or email us before you start the install.
The zip lock bag has several very small parts. Open on a clean surface so you do not loose any of the parts.
Save this copy as it has notes about your custom made gear box, clutch drum, gears, shaft, grease, Gear oil, V groove, notches, location pins, NPT plugs and other special notes that you may need in the future.
Scan this and your invoice into your PC as a file so you can all ways find this information.
This kit will fit drop out width of _____ Best for bikes that have a 7 or 8 speed freewheel.
Look at the two sets (10 + detailed pictures) of mounting pictures on the web site. All the engines mount the same, so look at all of them to get more information before you start.
After you get your wheel re laced into the Staton Custom hub with the Left Hand threads on the left side and right hand threads on the right side or you have bought a New wheel your ready to start.
Place the Axle mount Spacer on the left side of the axle, leave the 12 mm snap ring on.
Place the 2” x 3” x 7” long Angle bracket with the 10 mm hole on the axle, then slide the wheel with the left hand freewheel sprocket and the larger #25 or #35 sprocket in to your frame.
Be sure and snug up the right side first, this will help move the left side into position. Check and make sure your wheel is where it should be. Place the angle bracket to a Horizontal position, then tighten the 10 mm flange nut and the 10 mm x 1.0 hex nut and lock the two nuts together.
Now would be a good place to test ride the bike to make sure everything is where you want it before you install the axle brace or drill any holes in to the angle bracket.
Once your wheel is in place make the frame with a marker. You can turn the angle bracket to best suit your needs and the type of engine you have. If using the Robin Subaru EH025 or EH035 you can go up to 30 degrees.
Instructions for the Axle mounted Gear and Chain Drive kit. Page 2.
Try to keep the fuel tank as level as possible so when you check or change oil it easy to make sure you have the correct amount. If you want or need the engine tilted you can all ways place the rear wheel on a step or block of wood to lever out the engine so you can get a good reading on the oil level.
A Honda GX25 or GX35 can run at any angle, but you still need the fuel tank level so you can check the oil level correctly and fill the tank.
If you are using a Two Cycle or Two Stroke Engine it does not matter as to the angle. Just be sure you can fill the tank with the correct two Cycle mix ratio for your engine.
Try to pick up one or more holes in the frame to support the angle bracket. This will help keep the bracket in place and from turning. Most bike frames will have two holes that are
drilled and tapped with a 5 mm x .80 thread hole. I would drill out to a 6 mm for extra strength. You may need 5 mm or 6 mm bolts, flat washer and nylock nuts that are not included with the kit. Pick up both bolt holes if possible.
Angle Bracket Description: 2” x 3” x 3/16” x 7” long. Black - Aluminum or Steel - Zinc.
The Angle bracket should be perpendicular to the sprocket. When you install the brace, be sure and do not bend the angle bracket to match your frame.
Angle Brace Description: (¼” x ¾” or 1” x 6.25” or 7” long aluminum flat bar brace with the two ¼” holes drilled in it and a machined slot for the hose clamp.
If needed bend the brace (flat bar) slightly to match the frame. Make sure that the brace is nice and tight up against the frame as it’s purpose is to keep the angle bracket - engine and gear box from trying to rotate clock wise under power.
Keep the end of the brace about ½” away from the machined slots. This will allow more space for the bolts to move up and down in the slots in order to adjust the chain. Once the brace is placed where you want it, use a 6mm or ¼” drill bit to mark and drill thru the 3/16” bracket. Please the flat washers on the outside of the frame. Make sure the bolts do not extend too far as they will hit the freewheel sprocket or the nuts that hold the sprocket onto the freewheel. In most cases you will not use flat washer on the bolt that is closest to the axle as it would make the nylock nut stick out too far and hit the nylock nut on the freewheel.
Instructions for the Axle mounted Gear and Chain Drive kit. Page 3.
In most cases the other bolt can be longer and you can use a flat washer, then the nylock nut. Then install the hose clamp as shown.
Spin the wheel and make sure none of the parts touch each other and that you have the wheel and brakes installed correctly.
The Angle BRACE should help hold the Angle Bracket in place in both directions.
Once the wheel and angle bracket in comply installed. Install the Extra 10 mm x 1.0 hex nut with a 17 mm wrench. This is a safety to make sure the 10mm x 1.0 flange nut that uses a 15 mm wrench does not come loose.
Now test ride the bike again without the engine - gear box. Test the gear shifting, brakes, wheel alignment and re check for any loose nuts or bolts and that nothing is make contact that should not.
Install the chain using the master link or connecting link to attach the two ends of the chain together. Install the master link to the inside, closest to the wheel. A #25 master link as very small parts so be sure and do not loose them.
If you have a Four Cycle engine be sure and add the correct amount of oil as per the engine manual. You can also add some gas or two cycle mix depending on the engine you have.
Hold the gear box - engine in the upper part of the slot, then place chain over both sprocket and allow the gear box to lower. This will take the slack out of the chain if your chain was per cut. If not you will have to cut you own chain, use the highest position in the slot as possible. Then is the chain stretches you can lower the gear box to take the slack our of the chain. You do not want the chain too tight. You should be able to press in down about 1/16” of a inch in the center of the two sprocket. The Angle bracket should self align the chain. If not use a 5/8” snap ring, 14 or 18 gage machined flat washers to move the sprocket on the shaft to match the sprocket on the wheel. Use a flat bar or laser to align the two sprockets.
Install the remote stop - kill switch. The correct ends will be in with the switch, so you will have to cut or strip back 3/8” - ½” of outer coating, then crimp the connector on the wire.
Instructions for the Axle mounted Gear and Chain Drive kit. Page 4.
Use the Black nylon ties to hold the throttle cable and wire to the frame. Be sure and do NOT hold the throttle cable too tight to the frame. It should be able to move freely.
This will help the cable to return to a idle when you release the lever or twist grip.
Test the throttle back and forth without the engine running and make sure it returns to the idle position before starting.
Test the stop - kill switch before riding. If you switch does not work, Do NOT ride the bike until it has been replaced. If you throttle would happen to stick you need a way to stop the engine without having to rely on the bikes brakes to stop it.
Test ride the bike first without the engine started. Test the brakes and the gear shifting. Test again to make sure the engine kit is mounted correctly and nothing is contacting any thing. If the nuts or bolts are too close, use a flat washer by the head of the bolt or you may have to file them or use a different type of bolt and nut that is not included in the kit.
Test ride in a closed area, not in the street with traffic. Test ride at a slow place, re test the switch to make sure it stops the engine.
Make sure the throttle is in the slow position, start the engine, test the stop switch to make sure it works, make sure it is placed where you do not have to move your hand to stop the engine. Do not ride if the stop switch is broke or missing. Make sure your hands and clothing are not in the way of moving parts. Wear eye protection then, lift the rear wheel and slowly increase the throttle and check the alignment of the chain. If out of align, stop the engine and re adjust. Test ride slow in a closed area, not in the street. Slowly increase the speed if everything is in alignment. Most of the engines will gain about 27% more power after they are broke in. Also, keep in mind that the chain may stretch. You will have to adjust the chain at least once in most cases. Check the complete bike and engine kit before each ride.
The clutch engaging noise is normal and nothing to worry about. As you increase your speed the noise will stop. It is best when starting out that you pedal the bike 3-5 turns and help get moving. The larger the drive sprocket on the gear box the longer the “clutch noise” may sound. The gear box will also become smoother as time goes by after it “breaks in”.
Instructions for the Axle mounted Gear and Chain Drive kit. Page 5.
Do not let the bike fall over or it could damage the starter & or engine.
Always look and feel for any loose or missing bolts, chain tension, master link, miss alignment, check tire pressure & make sure you have good tread before riding, make sure your brakes are in good working condition, make sure the remote stop switch works at all times. Wear all safety gear & bright colored flag so others will see you.
Ride at a slow safe speed. Obey all Local, City and state laws. Ride at your our Risk. Do not ride fast or at night. Be sure and look at the web site for close up pictures.
This is a kit for the “Do It Your Selfer”.
The quality of this project depends on you. If you are not skilled, seek out professional help.
DO NOT Attempt To Install. Your safety comes FIRST.
Staton-Inc. Phone & Fax: 1-405-605-3765
3310 S. Brunson St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73119 USA
Web address: www.staton-inc.com E-mail us at: sales@staton-inc.com.
Yeah, that is the exact instructions that comes with the kit.
If I was a teacher grading them in a class....... "C-"
Needs pictures or diagrams identifying every piece. Look at sick bike parts instructions.... that is how instructions are supposed to be. They get a "A-"
I'm done with my poject/build. I will post a review in a few days.
Overall pretty good.
If I was a teacher grading them in a class....... "C-"
Needs pictures or diagrams identifying every piece. Look at sick bike parts instructions.... that is how instructions are supposed to be. They get a "A-"
I'm done with my poject/build. I will post a review in a few days.
Overall pretty good.
M
Member 5549
Guest
I don't know why
Staton's instructions are so LAME !!!!! same with the rack mounts ....
It's like he is trying to reduce his liability by not telling you how to install.
IMO !!!!!!
I think it is hurting his sales, I was going to buy the Staton rack mount chain drive but bought the GEBE insteed for the above reason.. Iam glad now the GEBE kick's and no chain mess.....
But Staton does have Quality products and should be proud of them and provide detail instructions with pics... I mean he sell's what Rack friction, rack chain and axel mounts.. I could do detailed assy. instructions for 1 kit in 1 day.. Not much expence or labor .... WTF.... oh well.....
Staton's instructions are so LAME !!!!! same with the rack mounts ....
It's like he is trying to reduce his liability by not telling you how to install.
IMO !!!!!!
I think it is hurting his sales, I was going to buy the Staton rack mount chain drive but bought the GEBE insteed for the above reason.. Iam glad now the GEBE kick's and no chain mess.....
But Staton does have Quality products and should be proud of them and provide detail instructions with pics... I mean he sell's what Rack friction, rack chain and axel mounts.. I could do detailed assy. instructions for 1 kit in 1 day.. Not much expence or labor .... WTF.... oh well.....
Here is a picture of my ride.
I've already given my first thoughts....
Here are my second thoughts. I ordered a complete new rear wheel with everything except my 7 speed cassette on it. I am really glad I ordered the wheel. I don't not feel comfortable lacing a wheel. I ended up going to a bike shop and paying $8 to change my cassette to the new wheel. It wasn't that big of a deal, but I waited until 6pm to start the project and the bike shop was closed. Then they didn't open until noon the next day and I had to leave it for a day. Then work got in the way and the project sat until yesterday.
I don't mean to beat a dead horse here, but the most frustrating thing was the lack of pictures and/or diagrams. I kept having to go from the garage to the computer to look at pictures. My hands were greasy so I had to get one of my kids to operate the mouse and keyboard.
I ended up putting it on and off about 3 times trying to get it lined up just right. Over all I had about 2-3 hours into the whole install. Now that I have done it once, next time would only take 1 hour.
First test drive. Wow the gear box is noisy!!! After one block I went back home and checked the chain tension. Loosened the chain and went back out. Still really loud. Greased chain and tried again. Still same noise level. Instructions say gear noise will subside with use. I have never driven a staton gear drive. I don't know if this normal. I took it out for a 3 mile ride. I don't know if I got used to it or it got quieter, but it sounded better toward the end of the ride.
My MB experience:
1. Beach cruiser with HT. then HT with SBP shift kit
2. Tandem with Honda 50 on staton friction drive
3. Beach cruiser with scooter guy and Titan 50 (China Honda clone)
4. Now, Subaru35 with a Staton axle mount.
(I list that so you know my experience when I give my thoughts)
This is the least powerful system I have owned. I don't have a speedo nor did I radar it. It feels like 20-22 WOT. I am 235lbs. My tandem two up does 31. The scooterguy did 40+ (way to much) HT did 30+
I would like to kick up the gear ratio. It pulls really well, however, I would gladly give some of the acceleration up to have better top end. Staton only sells one gear ratio. If they ever offer a higher one, I will try it. (I really don't mind pedaling when I start)
The center of gravity is really good!! Really turns/leans nice. It is the quietest ride I have. Having the exhaust down and that far behind me really is nice.
They main reason for buying this new system was for my 15 year old son to use it. I didn't want it fast at all. I also didn't want it breaking down. Didn't want to worry about him adjusting the drive system...ever. I think this system and motor will do what I am trying to achieve. I will post follow up thoughts in a few more miles.....
I've already given my first thoughts....
Here are my second thoughts. I ordered a complete new rear wheel with everything except my 7 speed cassette on it. I am really glad I ordered the wheel. I don't not feel comfortable lacing a wheel. I ended up going to a bike shop and paying $8 to change my cassette to the new wheel. It wasn't that big of a deal, but I waited until 6pm to start the project and the bike shop was closed. Then they didn't open until noon the next day and I had to leave it for a day. Then work got in the way and the project sat until yesterday.
I don't mean to beat a dead horse here, but the most frustrating thing was the lack of pictures and/or diagrams. I kept having to go from the garage to the computer to look at pictures. My hands were greasy so I had to get one of my kids to operate the mouse and keyboard.
I ended up putting it on and off about 3 times trying to get it lined up just right. Over all I had about 2-3 hours into the whole install. Now that I have done it once, next time would only take 1 hour.
First test drive. Wow the gear box is noisy!!! After one block I went back home and checked the chain tension. Loosened the chain and went back out. Still really loud. Greased chain and tried again. Still same noise level. Instructions say gear noise will subside with use. I have never driven a staton gear drive. I don't know if this normal. I took it out for a 3 mile ride. I don't know if I got used to it or it got quieter, but it sounded better toward the end of the ride.
My MB experience:
1. Beach cruiser with HT. then HT with SBP shift kit
2. Tandem with Honda 50 on staton friction drive
3. Beach cruiser with scooter guy and Titan 50 (China Honda clone)
4. Now, Subaru35 with a Staton axle mount.
(I list that so you know my experience when I give my thoughts)
This is the least powerful system I have owned. I don't have a speedo nor did I radar it. It feels like 20-22 WOT. I am 235lbs. My tandem two up does 31. The scooterguy did 40+ (way to much) HT did 30+
I would like to kick up the gear ratio. It pulls really well, however, I would gladly give some of the acceleration up to have better top end. Staton only sells one gear ratio. If they ever offer a higher one, I will try it. (I really don't mind pedaling when I start)
The center of gravity is really good!! Really turns/leans nice. It is the quietest ride I have. Having the exhaust down and that far behind me really is nice.
They main reason for buying this new system was for my 15 year old son to use it. I didn't want it fast at all. I also didn't want it breaking down. Didn't want to worry about him adjusting the drive system...ever. I think this system and motor will do what I am trying to achieve. I will post follow up thoughts in a few more miles.....
Attachments
M
Member 5549
Guest
Would
A smaller sprocket give you more top end ???
A smaller sprocket give you more top end ???
M
Member 5549
Guest
Try
Spookey tooth
see the vender links to the left..
Spookey tooth
see the vender links to the left..
Lazieboy
Member
I prefer frame mount. wheel mount i think looks cheap and cheesy.
Does anyone have any info on seat post mount gas tanks or alternate mounts.
Thanks in advance.
Does anyone have any info on seat post mount gas tanks or alternate mounts.
Thanks in advance.
Stoney
Member
Hey strotter,
Did you get the 36 spoke 12gauge or 48 spoke 14gauge?
Did you get the 36 spoke 12gauge or 48 spoke 14gauge?
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