New to this forum, heres my experiance

smorkmo

New Member
Local time
2:41 AM
Joined
Dec 1, 2009
Messages
2
Hello, my name is Troy, I live in Boise Idaho and I bought a 66cc motor kit off ebay from boygofast and I'd like to leave my feedback regarding the product.

The kit was shipped pretty darn fast which means a lot because I am currently waiting on a set of turn signals that are literally taking a month to get here and I am getting slightly frustrated having to wait this long.

The main problem that I found with the kit is the kill switch, it was backwards, you had to hold it down to keep the motor running and thats no good so I went to Radio Shack and picked up a new switch which works just fine.

The next problem is that the clutch pads wear out really freakin fast, I think next engine I purchase I am going to go with the Dual Start and Centrifugal Clutch which is what I'd reccommend to anybody living in Idaho as it is required by law that if you have a moped, which is what these are classified as here in Idaho Statutes section 49-9A, that they have an automatic clutch in order to be ridden on the roadways without registration.

My motor came with a 44 tooth sprocket and would only do about 24-26 mph until i put a 41 tooth sprocket on and that bumped me up to about 27 mph though it killed my accelleration. Shortly after that, the muffler housing shroud thing kept falling off because of how much the metal expands and shrinks when it goes from hot to cold and vice verca. I bolted that back on with some lock tite and it still came off and I don't know where it went cuz it was dark out. Although once it was off, all my accelleration was back and I was doing about 32 mph on level ground drafting behind vehicles which was pretty nice.

I have since installed a longer chopper muffler and that makes it extremely quiet, though you do lose some speed and acceleration because of it (nothing pedaling can't fix ;-)) A positive from it though is that accelleration is more consistent, though slower, and it seems to run a little better.

I modified the Carb, I put a washer in the float bowl to set the throttle pin seat a little lower and thus allowing more fuel into the motor at high speed, I also put another hole into the existing air cleaner cover and with that the final product is my bike does about 27-28, runs effeciently as I get about 45-50 miles out of a half gallon. I am using Chevron Premium High Octane unleaded gassoline mixed with Red Line High Performance 2 stroke oil at a 20:1 ratio and it is amazing. Red Line is where its at.

The gas tanks that these motors come with are shoddy at best, the welds under the tank where the screws come out to bolt on are insufficiently secured and leak. I have not been able to find anything short of rewelding it to stop these leaks and its very frustrating to fill your tank and come out in the morning to see a **** puddle of gas and oil under your bike and an empty tank. The mounts for these are also grosly insufficient. They need to be rubberized for antivibration and so they don't slip because you can't put a lot of force into bolting your tank down as you'll rip out the screws that are shodily welded to the bottom of the tank and then you're screwed paying and waiting for another one.

My recommendation is that you go to a local salvage yard and find a Gallon motorcycle tank that will work with your bike. Thats the best bet right there.
 
Last edited:
Hi Smork, welcome to the forum.
Just wondering if you are starting out without pedaling? That is hard on the clutch.
 
Absolutely, I usually have to bring it up to 4 or 5 MPH before I engage the clutch. Though I want to buy a motor with a centrifugal clutch and a pull start so that I don't have to roll it to get it started and so I can have a front brake where there currently is a clutch lever. Also the Friction plate clutch that I have on there now makes it so that my bike doesn't quite fit the specified requirements in Idaho statutes 49 to be street legal without registering, licencing, and insuring. So thats what my next project is.
 
Welcome!

If you had to hold the kill switch in to keep the engine running you most likely had it wired wrong - in series with the CDI. It is intended to be wired parallel to the CDI, ie it shorts out the wires going to it when you press it.

Your way of wiring a "aftermarket" switch is just fine (possibly better then the stock method...), just be sure to have everything well insulated so you don't get a shock when things get wet...:)

Post some pictures if you can, would like to see your "chopper muffler".
 
Get (or make a brake lever )that takes both front and rear cables and replace the right single lever with it. You can adjust the action to suit your braking bias.
 
Back
Top