Newbie few questions

Comandoriv

New Member
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3:18 AM
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Apr 6, 2016
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Hi everyone,

First I would like to say that I did use the search function for all of my problems. Many of them have been answered. Thank you.

Now heres my questions

1) I am a motorcyclist and im used to that snap back on the throttle. Just to confirm, the throttle from 2 stroke chinese kits don't snap back in such a way, correct? (Lack of return cable/spring?)

2) The flower nut screw on my clutch is very difficult to remove without stripping. Any advice on that?

3) No spark/weak spark
I've replaced the spark plug wire and boot with an automotive kind. I still used the original spark plug. The magneto read 314 ohms. The CDI read around 7k ohms. I turned the engine to check for spark against the head. Didn't seem like anything. Next I held the spark plug in my hand and did the same. I felt a sting/buzz, almost like a trick pen that zaps your hand when someone plays a joke on you.

That would mean there "is" spark, but not enough? It was the chinese spark plug. Also, I did attach the killswitch before warning, and before that there was visisbly good spark. So the killswitch may have caused a problem?

4) Wheel bearing on rear wheel
While pedaling the bike before trying to get it to start, my wheel bearing came "loose" and rendered the wheel dangerous. Did this happen to anyone before? Pics below

I have yet to start the engine once.

Thanks everyone!!
 

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There is a spring in the carb and you should definitely get snap back on the throttle. These stock throttles are low quality but they are very functional, durable and offer a certain degree of feel.

The flower nut on the clutch needs to be worked around with a hammer and screwdriver. It should move fairly easily. I don't have any wrenches that would work with that flower nut. Make sure you are using a good technique.

Without looking up the values for the electric, you know you have spark. I've been hit with a good spark from these magnetos and they are not much. Just start that bug up. You'll learn quickly whether you have adequate spark or not.
 
Welcome.

1. There is a strong spring in the throttle assembly that goes into the carburetor. I think this is enough snap back but it does become weaker after a year. Unfortunately, the entire spring assembly is hidden in the carburetor so I am not sure how you would strengthen the spring other than stretching or replacing the spring. Again, I think it is fine but after a year of use you probably want to stretch the string or replace it

2. some flower nuts allow you to use a flat screwdriver. This video basically show you what timbone is suggesting

3. I and many stick by the iridium or platnium spark plugs for easier spark from the motor, which helps with ignition, power utilization, and gas savings. NGK is the brand i trust

4. Not for me. I have a $50 walmart bike and it is fine after 300 miles for my 4-stroke @ 33mph. My 2-stroke did cause more wear and tear but nothing like you are describing.
 
reach thru behind carb & pull clutch arm in to loosen flower nut
 
Thanks everyone for your great responsed!! Definitely a very helpful forum!! I hope to contribute in the future.

In regards to flower nut, I meant the screw that holds it in place. It may have been over tightened from factory. Thankfully the clutch was adjusted properly already.

I got the bike to start after several tries and burning thighs, and now its running good.

One problem I realized is that the throttle, if I twist it too much, it will cause the sliding assembly in carb to lock up at the top of the carb, causing uncontrolled high revs. Is that usual? My fix is not to twist the throttle hard.

Thanks everyone!!
 
As for your rear tire, you gotta keep an eye on them lol. I check mine often for any play in the axle. It's kind of a pain removing the rear wheel all the time to adjust it but it's better safe than sorry. Just don't make the mistake I did and forget to completely tighten down the coaster brake arm if you have one. I did this and when I was coming to a stop it broke free and I had a bad situation. The pedals ran forward pedaling uncontrollably until the arm spun around the axle a number of times and finally jammed against the frame allowing me to stop. It was a close call and luckily I wasn't moving too fast and wasn't far from home. The end result was a bent axle, bent axle hangars on the frame and a destroyed inner rear coaster hub. All because one little lapse in my attention to detail. So yeah I always check my wheels and ALWAYS secure the coaster arm now! Chain tension is important to because if the pedal side comes off and you use a coaster brake as your sole means of stopping...well, you now have no way to brake! Keep a close eye on that stuff.
 
Your throttle really shouldn't be snagging. Order a new spring, new needle, upgraded throttle housing - whatever - and effect a fix. Believe me, you are gonna have enough problems. A functioning throttle should be a given.
 
Your throttle really shouldn't be snagging. Order a new spring, new needle, upgraded throttle housing - whatever - and effect a fix. Believe me, you are gonna have enough problems. A functioning throttle should be a given.


Hi, thanks for the input! I have solved all my problems and have ran the little engine 64 miles so far.
 
As for your rear tire, you gotta keep an eye on them lol. I check mine often for any play in the axle. It's kind of a pain removing the rear wheel all the time to adjust it but it's better safe than sorry. Just don't make the mistake I did and forget to completely tighten down the coaster brake arm if you have one. I did this and when I was coming to a stop it broke free and I had a bad situation. The pedals ran forward pedaling uncontrollably until the arm spun around the axle a number of times and finally jammed against the frame allowing me to stop. It was a close call and luckily I wasn't moving too fast and wasn't far from home. The end result was a bent axle, bent axle hangars on the frame and a destroyed inner rear coaster hub. All because one little lapse in my attention to detail. So yeah I always check my wheels and ALWAYS secure the coaster arm now! Chain tension is important to because if the pedal side comes off and you use a coaster brake as your sole means of stopping...well, you now have no way to brake! Keep a close eye on that stuff.

Thanks for the input! That's definitely a scary situation and im glad you were ok.

I have the engine on a 26er mountain bike frame, so I have rim brake front and rear. The original wheel's bearing was actually loose and all the balls flew out. The bearing itself didn't bend but I picked up a new wheel anyhow
 
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