newbie here with 1st build questions

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10:31 PM
Joined
Jan 12, 2014
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Fort Lauderdale
I've been riding my new bike build now for about a month with minor adjusting here and there but nothing major. I paid $140.00 for the kit, $100.00 for bike, $70.00 for upgraded carb, $50.00 for upgraded heavy duty back wheel, tire and innertube. I know little about motors and am wondering a few things. I recently got the new high performance carb "with jets" to replace the stock China "80cc/66cc" carb but it seems I am going a tad bit slower than with the stock carb especially, on take off. Not much slower but the bike has a max speed of approx 22mph which ends up about the same from the stock carb. I weigh about 265 and the bag I carry usually weighs 15-20 extra pounds.I thought the new carb it might increase the speed alittle as well as help with consistent fuel air flow but thats how much I know about this stuff....:) On flat road I max 21-22mph and can go 19-20 smoothly on longer distances.... I thought id be able to reach 30 but I was wrong. Climbing is a task at about 8-9mph max and struggling. I am wondering what the best thing to do for that is. I was told something needs to be "bored?" but I do not know how or haven't looked into what that complete process consists of. I was hoping someone could shed some light on the subect. A specialist that fixed my bike a couple times that is about 40 miles away said if I put about $150.00 into it, theres a few upgrades that they can do to definitely increase the speed a bit so I figured I would try and do it on my own. My speed goal for this bike is 30+

Another question I have is; I was thinking of starting a 2nd build with a harbor freight motor but does anyone sell a package kit for the rest of the parts needed without the motor for one of those motors?

Lastly, whats the best thing for the heavy duty motor chain for cleaning and keeping lubricated?

Thanks for reading and check out my first motorized bike below :) I just cleaned er up yesterday. (Purchased from boygofast on ebay. Great seller!)

onward and upward!










 
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I thought the new carb it might increase the speed a little

The carburettor (given the same venturi diameter) as the standard carburettor will not give any increased power, because physics dictates how much air can be drawn through a hole under a given pressure drop (provided by the engine) at maximum safe rpm.

Even if you do install a carburettor with a larger venturi diameter, the engine will then be restricted by internal diameter of the intake tube.

These engines are what they are, and the best option is to improve low and midrange torque to improve drivability rather than outright power.
Aside from installing a tuned exhaust pipe, you can modify the standard muffler to slightly increase power.

My bike has just about all of the modifications that you can throw at these engines (CR Machine Manufacturing billet cylinder head, Rock Solid Engines reed valve intake and Walbro style carburettor, Jaguar CDI, Magnecor Ignition lead, modified cylinder, modified exhaust) and it still won't go any faster than the speeds being achieved on your bike.

It does however have tremendous midrange torque compared to a standard engine, allowing me to use much lower rpm to achieve similar speeds, making the bike much more pleasant to ride, not only from significantly reduced vibration but from significantly reduced noise.
 
Engine needs to break in, takes time

The China motors need a few tanks of gas to break in. Mid range torque, and driveability improve considerably after break in.
Pay careful attention to clutch adjustment, a slightly slipping clutch can rob power.
 
V 35- As soon as I start the engine after the pedal start there sounds and feels like a slip somewhere. I think it might have something to do with the electrical kinda like a car does but again, im not sure. After that initial slippage, it seems to be perfectly fine. I do not know if that is normal or not since I do not know these things very well. But now that you mentioned the above, I am considering it might have something to do with the clutch pads slipping on initial start up but it's been doing that since I first got it. It has not changed performance-wise like, got a lengthier pause or gotten worse. But again, now that you mentioned that to me, I am wondering what that is. I do not notice other bikes like mine doing that.. I am on the 4th tank refill on the same 16:1 ratio. The next tank refill I need advise for. I live in Sunny South Florida where the weather is almost 75-80 degrees all year round and i've heard the weather might have something to do with the way the ratio should be mixed. I need expert advise though
 
whats the best muffler? and a good fairly price alternative to buy performance-wise for these kits?


There is no such thing as """the best muffler""" because the best exhaust system configuration will depend on the type of riding you do and the rpm range you operate the engine at.

The forum member Jaguar makes a version of a tuned exhaust pipe that focuses engine performance on maximum torque, though i cannot verify this claim as i have not tried it on my bike.
The vendor SickBikeParts sells an exhaust expansion chamber that is claimed to give good overall improvement in power, but again, i cannot verify their claim as i have not tried it for myself.
 
I am on the 4th tank refill on the same 16:1 ratio. The next tank refill I need advise for.

Don't be too concerned with 16:1 ratio for break-in.
I have had good results with 25:1 from the word go, using the cheapest air-cooled specification 2-stroke oil that i can find, and typically get 4,000 kilometers (2,500 miles) before piston, rings and cylinder need to be replaced.

The most important thing is not to run the engine with a lean air/fuel mixture.
 
The clutch cable should be checked for a little slack, and no binding, [ lever released ] before adjusting clutch

Remove right side cover, the clutch is the big, round, drum . At the center, is the flower nut, and retaining screw
Mark the nut and retaining screw [ paint marker best ] Remove retaining screw, tap flower nut 1 dentent away from retainer screw hole
[ clockwize ] Squeeze clutch lever, should be ' a little ' stiffer now. When you feel clutch is right, replace retaining screw, mark new setting, replace cover, and re-adjust cable, if needed . The clutch plates take a ' set ' after a few dozen heat ups / cool downs after fine tuning clutch, go back to tuning carb.
 
is WD-40 a good option to lubricate bike chain AND motor chain? And a good option for a chain cleaner from, lets say Walmart?
 
chainlube is the best, wd is a little to thin, but makes a great cleaner. chainlube is available at most auto stores. a truly nasty chain i'll clean with brake kleen.
 
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